Replies

1. 
   JohnWW | Dec 17, 2007 11:18pm | #1

   I think the problem is with the blade and that would only get worse if it were becoming dull. 

   John W.

2. 
   Samson | Dec 18, 2007 12:44am | #2

   One thought is feed rate.  I find that I need to remind myself to keep patient with harder woods or I get blade deflection and other assorted bad cuts.

3. 
   Wingdoctor | Dec 18, 2007 05:52pm | #3

   I would guess that the blade is getting dull or the tension is too light. I do know that the dedicated resaw blades when sharp do a very good job of resawing, and  under 3" stock size should be a cinch. Check the blade and tension first.

4. 
   Napie | Dec 19, 2007 02:32am | #4

   7 TPI is WAY to fine to resaw without overheating. That will cause it bow pretty fast.

1. 
   Neil | Dec 19, 2007 05:47pm | #5

   <!----><!----><!----> 

   I managed to change the design a bit and vertically slice the laminates on my tablesaw. This worked fine, as the slices are only about 2” thick and I am going to invest in resaw blade regardless.<!----><!---->

   <!----> <!---->

   Another thought was getting riser block to increase the capacity.  That actually begs another question.  From a  practical perspective, what is the real capacity of a consumer grade 14” 1.0 HP bandsaw?  You can buy riser blocs that will go out to 10+ inches,  but could you really cut a piece of 8” or 10” oak or maple with reasonable success in a reasonable period of time?<!----><!---->

   <!----> <!---->

   Neil<!----><!---->

1. 
   Samson | Dec 19, 2007 06:05pm | #6

   I have a Powermatic 14" with a Riser block that gives it 12" resaw capacity.  IIRC the motor is 1.5 hp as opposed to 1.  That said, I am able to resaw maple, cherry, walnut (don't use much oak) quite successfully.  Get a good resaw blade - and the harder teh wood the slower the feed to keep the blade from bowing.

2. 
   Archibald | Dec 19, 2007 07:48pm | #7

   I have a 4.8 HP Laguna and a 3/4HP Inca with riser blocks. As long as the Inca has a fresh 3 tpi carbon steel blade it resaws very well. The Laguna by comparison resaws veneer that doesn't need sanding, but it also costs $3000. If I had to do it again I'd invest in a smaller saw and keep lots of blades on hand. By the way I've made the same mistake resawing with a 7tpi blade. Had the same bad result to. The saw dust never clears the fine gullets and the teeth lose reach resulting in the blade wandering as it is pressed faster than it can cut.

3. 
   Napie | Dec 19, 2007 08:04pm | #8

   I have a 1985 vintage Delta 14” with a riser block, 2 HP motor, Carter guides and some upgrades from Ittura.  I use ½” 3 TPI Timber wolf brand blades and I regularly re-saw 10” plus wide hardwood stock with no problems at all.

4. 
   jeff100 | Dec 22, 2007 05:54am | #14

   With the right blade...absolutely.Jeff

5. 
   everton_in_europe | Dec 21, 2007 04:15pm | #9

   I experienced similar problems (documented on this bulletin board) earlier this autumn. The cause was cheap blades from Lowes. (Incidentally the brand that Home Depot stocks performs even worse). As soon as I switched to a Timberwolf blade, my worries were a thing of the past.

    

   Incidentally, I had performed the same experiment on 2x4's using the cheaper blade and had the exact same results. The $20 or so I spent on a decent blade was money well spent.

    

   Simon

1. 
   Neil | Dec 21, 2007 09:36pm | #10

   <!----><!----> <!---->

   That's interesting, since the blade is a  Timberwolf and it's relatively new.<!----><!---->

   <!----> <!---->

   My suspicion  is that It’s close the maximum amount of material that can be resawn by that blade and the toughness of the white oak pushes it over the edge of speed vs. blade deflection.<!----><!---->

   <!----> <!---->

   The project was for a 3” x 60” curved piece (X2).  That’s about 40 running feet of cut, so there is a practical limit of how long you can spend slicing…<!----><!---->

   <!----> <!---->

   Neil<!----><!---->

    

   <!----><!----> 

1. 
   colebearanimals | Dec 21, 2007 11:27pm | #11

   Hi Neil,

               I agree with the others. The gullets are way too small on a 7tpi band. 3tpi will send you on your way.

                                                       Paul

   ps     You won't have any problems using a riser block w/ 1hp motor. That's what I'm using and it works fine. Just watch your feed rate and use an appropriate blade.

6. 
   danmart | Dec 22, 2007 05:28am | #12

   Neil

   Get a blade with 2-3tpi to resaw. You will use it again for another project and it will take the mystery out of cutting a hard wood in the resaw mode. You have too many teeth and its just going to frustrate you. I just got a 2tpi blade from Lenox for my bandsaw to cut lots of walnut slabs. I have gone thru 300-400 feet(some 12" wide) and its going strong. I am very pleased. Take a look at a hooked blade with as few teeth per inch as you can find and you will not be unhappy.

   dan

1. 
   dynamwebz | Dec 22, 2007 05:38am | #13

   I use a 3/4" wood slicer on a 2hp Grizzly. Resaws just about anything with no tracking. Don't even have to skew the fence.

   http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1294

1. 
   danmart | Dec 22, 2007 05:59am | #15

   I don't have the blade from Highland in front of me now but they were 3-4tpi as I remember?? Not sure what your point might be?

   For 35--40 dollars for the 142" blade for my 20" delta the highland blade cut very well and very smooth..... for about 200 feet of maple. It was down hill from there. I became frustrated by how quickly they dulled and I wrote to a couple of sources about it(John White commented too) how short the wear life on the HH blade was and others commented about the short life of their blades.

   I couldn't afford the carbide Lenox blade for my bandsaw so I bought a couple of the bimetal Lenox blades thinking that they would go dull somewhere around 300-400 a little better than the HH. Not yet. For the extra bucks, I am lined up in the Lenox isle and not going back for the Highland blades. I imagine if you don't do a bunch of resaw cutting it shouldn't matter too much. If you have 1000-1500 feet of thick slabs to cut, you need a strong sharp blade that won't go dull and wander after 200 feet.

   I have 3 dull HH blades hanging on the wall to make beading tools. The price of resharpening a 142" blade is not cost effective where I live so they are gathering dust-- not the kind I want.

   Good Luck

   Dan

1. 
   dynamwebz | Dec 23, 2007 10:31pm | #16

   My point is this.

   According to my limited research, Neil is using a blade that is not optimal for what he is attempting to accomplish. From Neil's post I can extrapolate that he is an amateur woodworker (as I am) and is looking for a simple solution to his problem. You on the other hand appear to be somewhat of a professional woodworker given that you resaw hundreds of board feet of lumber.

   I purchased the Grizzly 14" bandsaw with the riser block and resaw fence. I then spent a week (a couple hours per night) setting up the saw and making practice cuts on different types of scrap wood. I burned up the two 105" cheapo blades I purchased from Grizzly and made plenty of kindling for my wood stove.  I learned a lot of the don'ts regarding bandsaws. I then pulled out my magazines and bookmarks on bandsaw resawing. I purchased the 3/4" woodslicer and my resawing troubles disappeared. The saw goes through 8" wide 4/4 cherry like a hot knife through butter.

   My purpose for this bandsaw is to create bookmatched door panels for the 22 cherry cabinets I am building for my kitchen.

   I looked at the Lennox blades on different web sites. I am now rather confused about which Lennox blade would be the most cost effective solution to any amateur woodworkers dilemma.

   So Neil could spend the next week sorting out exactly which Lennox blade to purchase (and hope it works for him) or he could purchase a wood slicer and be on his way sawing his wood and building his project.

   Edited 12/23/2007 2:35 pm ET by dynamwebz

1. 
   danmart | Dec 24, 2007 02:08am | #17

   Your point is well taken. Lenox has so many blades its tough to wade thru some of the information. Easiest solution is to call Lenox on the phone(free) and talk to an expert- that's what I do and I'm back to work. No recordings or musac in the background. One reason you might want to try Lenox is they make blades for any size set up you want. With some of the standard equipment, it might not matter. In my case the saw I use works best with a blade 141 1/2" not 143". That's a discussion for another time.

   I like Lenox and Suffolk for 2 reasons: they are in the business of making blades for lots of applications and they are good at it. Their metal cutting blades are an industry standard. Just try one of their blades in you hacksaw next time you need one. Lenox is the only sawblade company that I have dealt with that took something back after it was used --because they made an error. Don't mean to sound like a Lenox salesman but I am very pleased with the work horse I have and someday I hope to get the Tri-Master blade. I have seen the cuts this makes on some curly maple and its just.. well better than I can get with my current set up. It does have a price tag.

   I guess I touched a nerve with some folks by bad mouthing the woodslicer for its questionable endurance. I offered this information not to put anybody down but only to let folks know from a user how much work a blade can do. Its just an input to possibly save someone a little money and get some good results.