Hi everyone.I make baskets from really thin veneer I purchase from Constantines and others.I have had a falling out with them recently over a misuse of my credit card.Anyway I would like to be able to cut veneers 1/32 and 1/50″ right off my bandsaw,no planing or belt sanding.The veneer doesn’t have to be perfect surface-wise as I won’t be lacquering it like a cabinet or piece of furniture.In Dusinske’s video he bandsaws a sheet of veneer 1/64″ thick,hence it can be done.
What blade would you suggest? Lennox? Timberwolf?
Also any other helpful suggestions appreciated.I know I’ll really have to take the vibrations out of my bandsaw.Probably make some compartments to attach to the it with lead shot or sand(kind of like a audiophile speaker cabinet) to absorb some of the stray vibrations.Thanks tons,Roland.
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Replies
The Woodslicer blade -- from Highland Hardware -- always gets rave reviews where/when "Which bandsaw blade is best for resawing?" is the topic of discussion.
My first experience with it was fabulous ... I was able to pull 1/32" full width veneers off of a 6/4" x 7" maple board. Relatively little tooth marking.
I won't bother mentioning the importance of machine set-up as it sounds like you are well aware of this aspect.
-Peter T.
I have to agree with Peter. Last summer I purchased a new 1 1/4 inch blade from a local supplier on his recomendation. I always thought a wide blade was best for resawing thin stock. NOT SO!!!! A member of our local clyb suggested I purchase a 1/2 " woodslicer blade from Highland Hardware. IT IS THE BEST I"VE SEEN!!!!! I make Shaker boxes and baskets. Works great. Check it out at http://www.highlandhardware.com those folks are very helpful and nice to work with.
Delbert
Thanks tons Peter and Delbert.Is the woodslicer resharpenable? I have heard pro and con about them.Has anyone tried the highly touted Timberwolfs or Lennoxes?
Delbert do you make baskets from the veneers you cut right off the saw?If so what size veneer is the smallest thickness which you can consistently achieve? I really like the 1/50" veneers for the weavers.Very pliable.I can use thicker stuff,i.e.,1/32" or 1/25" for the uprights.Thanks so much everyone again,Roland.
I should have described the type baskets I make. They are actually Shaker oval carriers. I didn't mean to confuse you. I generally resaw cherry and maple to approx. 1/16" and then run a pass on each side with my performax 16-62 drum sander to even out any saw blade marks. The Wood Slicer blade leaves very little saw marks. I've not thought about getting it sharpened. It's probably not worth the cost. A new blade for my saw (Shopfox 16") was only $29.00. Call Highland and request a catalog, I think you'll be very pleased with their service and selection of Quality products.
Thanks again everyone for your help.
Delbert I am familiar with Highland and the woodslicer blade.I went over to their site and reacquainted myself with the blade.It has impulse hardened teeth like a production manufactured Japanese saw which isn't good as the teeth are so hard they chip.They really can't be resharpened.However at $30 that is very reasonable if one can process a fair amount of board feet.What kind of mileage do you get out of yours?
Also do you make boxes professionally? The reason I ask is that I also make shaker boxes professionally however I've had to supplement things my learning shaker basketmaking.The baskets are much more difficult than the boxes but like the boxes become second nature when you have made a fair amount.Thanks tons,Roland.
I've got to go with the Highland as well. I tried to cut hard maple as thin as I could and what I cut could be used as lamp shade material- Super thin.. I wasn't aware of the non-sharpening aspect though. I've probably got maybe 150 LF of 5-6" maple resaw cut and don't notice a drop-off yet.(:-)Windy Wood
From the Helderberg Mountains
I make Shaker boxes for myself and as gifts. I do have future plans to sell them retail and at craft fairs. As for the blades track record, I have probably resawed 200 - 250 board feet of cherry and maybe 100 board feet of maple. The blade performs as well as it did when it was new. A fellow woodworker has probably had his for approx. 1 year and it's still doing a great job. The best feature about the Wood Slicer is the finish after resaw. Very little sanding is required.
Delbert
I make Shaker oval boxes too. I use a Lennox carbide tipped BS blade on my 18" General International BS.
The saw and the fence isn't really tweaked to the point that it should be, so I do end up getting saw marks. A Delta drum sander takes care of that.
Check out message 13764.13
One of these days I'll get a woodslicer blade, just to see if they live up to all of the hype.
If you want to try the Timber Wolf, be sure an get the right blade series. My catalog's hiding somewhere, so can't tell you what it is, but their phone number is 1-800-234-7297.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)Another proud member of the "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>)
Are you acquainted with John Wilson the man who teaches how to make Shaker boxes and sells the materials? I would ask him (he invites questions) how he slices his cherry veneers.
I've taken classes from John Wilson and he "slices" his veneers - doesn't saw it.
He uses green logs and a rotary slicer. I've seen a coffee table that he made that's actually a shaker box. I think he said that the large band was over 10' long to make the 4 1/2' table.
He's very talented and a great person also. We all made boxes and then were able to stand on them without them breaking.
I've now made over 250 boxes and have sold about 80% of those. I got tired of the same old thing over and over so it's been about a year since I made a set but I still have all of my jigs and fixtures, boiling box, etc. and will make more around Xmas time for family and friends.
Thanks. I didn't know that is how John makes his bands. My wife and I took his two-day program at the Shaker Village in Kentucky a couple of years ago. I guess I didn't pay enough attention or I'd have known that. Sure was a lot of fun, though. I haven't made any since then, but I have cut some thin veneer using my band saw and Performax sander.
I also took my class from John at Shaker Village in Kentucy! I live in Lexington and took that class about 6 years ago. He's a great teacher.
Where are you located?
We're in the Orlando, FL area. We read about the shaker box class in the Wall Street Journal one day and signed up for March, 2002. Had a great time and a lot of fun. Visited the "Worlds Largest Osage Orange Tree" after watching an interpreter at the village make some tool handles out of it (different tree). We haven't made any of the boxes since, but have seen John in the media on occasion. My wife isn't really into woodworking, but did enjoy the class and results.
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