Replies

1. 
   jackplane | Apr 05, 2004 07:49pm | #1

   It's a stock item, and should be available from a good lumber yard in oak and/or mahogany.

   If not, it's going to take several shaper bits, or possibly large router bits to make this.You need a female square edge on the back to attach it to a bartop, and several roundover bits.You could cut the cove on the tablesaw, but practice on scrap first.

2. 
   mike4244 | Apr 05, 2004 08:26pm | #2

   I have never made bar railing but have installed it. It is generally called chicago rail, very exspensive stuff.Here's how I would build it. First thing the rail has a round at the top and bottom with the center being a cove.The top round is plowed out underneath for the flat bar top . The rabbet installs over the bar top. The cove is blended into the top round, bottom round is similar, also blends into the middle cove. The bottom round is plowed out for a 3/4"x 3 "x bar length ( approximate dimensions}  hardwood plywood piece that connects everything together.

   Do a search and you may be able to find manufacturers dimensions.If I recall, home bar rail finished dimensions are two inches thick and 4inches wide, not critical if your making your own.I believe you can make the rounds and cove, large radius round over bit will get you close, the cove is shallow, probably made on the table saw.Experiment with knot free construction lumber before trying it on hardwood.

   Bring a pencil ,pad, scribers and contour gauge to your favorite taproom, hoist a couple of beers and you'll figure it out better than I can describe it.

   mike

   
   

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   Edited 4/5/2004 1:27 pm ET by MIKEK4244

1. 
   woodguy | Apr 05, 2004 09:11pm | #3

   Thanks Mike, I think you are right,it will come down to a little field work and some trial and error.thanks, woodguy

1. 
   kennny | Apr 05, 2004 09:54pm | #4

   I have made several bars and back bars in my time. Some with a radius or elliptical curves mind you also. All you need is 2 different round over bits, a sharp combo blade, pencil and paper, carpet tape tape, and wide variety of sandpaper.

   Now, the stock pieces will range in size, color, and are bowed, and warped so keep this in mind for very long runs. That's why I made my own. Coving on the table saw is the ticket but take small amounts off in your passes, don't go to fast, and stay with the pencil marks on the ends of your pieces.If you thought heavy sanding, scraping wasn't going to be a part of this your wrong.

   Carpet tape holds your angled piece to your table saw top and is quickly changed to accommodate your cuts.(use clamps if your not comfortable with carpet tape!)

   On the radius bar rails just clamp/tape the "offcut"piece from your band sawed stock. You may have to make more cuts then a straight piece but it will work out.

   I used to back the top material with 3/4" fir and that not only helped the top from splitting, it extended 2-3/4" past the front to accept the bar rail and keep it strong and safe. On the glass tray side I kept the fir off the edge 2" and just fastened the tray to the underneath of the solid top. Join then together with dowels and start sanding- Kenny

1. 
   woodguy | Apr 06, 2004 02:35am | #5

   Thanks Kenny, I thought that this might have been something that someone had figured out how to do simply,I guess that nothing worthwhile is easy. wish me luck,I always wanted to play at making cove molding on the table saw, I guess now is my chance. Thanks, Woodguy

3. 
   jackiechan | Apr 06, 2004 05:59am | #6

   Wood',

   If you don't mind mail order, bar moldings can be bought through Rockler in oak, cherry, and maple.

   http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?&offerings_id=5762&objectgroup_id=372&catid=75&filter=bar

   Dan Kornfeld, Owner/President - Odyssey Wood Design, Inc.

4. 
   notDusty | Apr 06, 2004 08:41am | #7

                      woodguy ,

         Kenny has got the ticket right . I have made bar rail by coving on the table saw and a series of router passes and a good old hand plane to take the edges off and help blend the shapes . The good thing about this cove cut on the ts is you have a rather large piece of stock to hold on to for safety sake . In my opinion you should only take about 1/8" or less per pass. If you have never used a scraper , heres your chance to become proficient with one . Maybe try a sample run on the type of wood you intend to use , and as mentioned in a  previous post flat straight stock is what you need for this very special operation. Sure you can buy it pre made but a certain sense of achievement will be realized when it is made by you .

                               good luck       dusty