Replies

1. 
   ring | Mar 31, 2010 12:18am | #1

   A spline and polyurethane glue.  It's hard to get the placement of dowels perfect, and they bring no advantage whatsoever to this application.  If the bartop is gonna be really exposed to the weather then the best spline would be a strip of exterior ply, but just about anything will do if it's somewhat sheltered.

2. 
   bduffin104 | Mar 31, 2010 02:46am | #2

   Joining beams

   MB,

   Large slabs of cedar like you describe would likely be subject to considerable movement, especially outdoors. IMHO the dowels may work to you detriment. I would opt for no glue  and use some stout perpendicular cleats across the bottom and maybe even leave a space between the beams. I would use lag bolts up through slotted holes (to allow for movement) in the cleats into the beams. I would not tighten the bolts too much so they will still slide in the slots.

   Or you could leave a space and try a George Nakashima style "bow tie"  to connect the slabs.

   Good luck what ever method you use, Bret

3. 
   JohnWW | Mar 31, 2010 09:11am | #3

   Counter top connectors

   First of all it will be difficult to clamp against the live edges.  I would put a series of counter top connectors, a foot apart or less, down the underside of the slabs to provide the clamping force. 

   Then use a slow setting glue, I would be inclined to an epoxy if it doesn't have a problem with reactions with the chemicals in cedar, the epoxy's manufacturer can tell you if there would be a problem. 

   With the connectors and a slow set glue you can take your time with the glue up to bring the surfaces of the two boards flush with each other as you work your way from one end of the slabs to the other tightening up the clamps as you go, there is no need to hassle with dowels or splines which are almost always more trouble than they are worth.  Always do a dry run first without the glue to make sure everything is going to work as planned.  The real trick is to get the two edges flat and straight so the joint pulls up tight easily.

4. 
   MB1974 | Mar 31, 2010 04:51pm | #4

   thanks...

   i really appreciate the words of wisdom. i just joined the group, but have been a mag subscriber for years. i knew the dowel connection would be tricky with layout, thats why i sought forth another option. im most positive that i will use a spline and the c-top clamps. the top will be under a timber frame roof/truss system. with adaquate shade from trees around. i plan on sanding the "you know what" out of it with a floor sander first, then belts/palms/orbitals. i have 2 packages of "ez-pour" finish i will have a painter buddy apply. should work out well, just need some time to work on it. ill post some pics..... thanks again gentleman, CHEERS!

1. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Mar 31, 2010 07:03pm | #5

   MB,

   I made some patio furniture last summer out of White Cedar and applied a coat of BLO and let it dry for several days, spreading the excess around as it dried; then applied several coats of Spar Varnish.   The spar varnish is somewat flexible and will move with the expansion/contraction of the wood.   It does require nearly annual refreshing but the look is exactly wha I wanted so so big thing for me.

   I'd be concerned about the finish and stear clear of hard finishes as they seem to end up cracking.  Exposing wood to the elements will reak havoc with just about any finish, especially anything clear.  Have you considered jts letting it weather to gray naturally?  Might be the best option.

   Regards, 

1. 
   DonStephan | Mar 31, 2010 08:18pm | #6

   in addition to hard finish concerns, are you planning to apply at least one coat of the finish to the underside as well?  If not, you'll be more likely to have cupping as moisture won't be able to move in and out equally on both surfaces.

1. 
   KiddervilleAcres | Apr 02, 2010 09:55pm | #7

   Thank you

   Don,

   Yes, and I apologize for not stating that clearly.  I applied the finish to all surfaces.

   Regards,