Does anyone have a method of coloring the cut edges of barnwood?(weathered silver-gray) Ive been making picture frames and western accent pieces and just left the edges white . I thought if I could get them to blend in it would look a lot better. Would nitric acid work? Ammonia @26%? When I do these Im working mostly with lodgepole pine and some doug fir. Thanks Bob
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Replies
you can rip it on a miter and glue on a return that is triangular 2 faces rough.
A coarse wire wheel and watered up woodashes, has been done.
I have used barn wood before and have used artist paints to retuch the sawn edges. If I remember correctly it was basically silver, gray and black that I had used for this. It was quite successful and looked original.
Bob
Hi sphere Do you mean woodstove ashes? How soupy do you make it? and do you brush it on? Rinse? Thanks bob
Yes woodstove ashes, ruff it up good with a rasp or wire wheel..wet ashes (Not Soupy, more like paste) smear it on, let dry, brush of excess..repeat if needed. Seal it well.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
Thank you much Ill give it a try Bob
I've heard that one option to hide the fresh cut is mitering the cut edge at 45 degrees and mitering a second "side-edge" piece at 45 degrees and attaching it to produce a corner that has "old" wood on both outside faces. It would be best if you could start with wider stock and cut both pieces from the same board. That way you could match grain and color almost exactly at the corner seam. You can easily touch-up/hide and new wood that might show thru at this seam.
We've discussed this a couple times in the last few months. I don't remember seeing anything that sounded particularly effective. You could search for weathered or weathering, or maybe even gray, but that might get you a flood of irrelevant results.
Try Potassium Permanganate - a water softening chemical sold at Southern States, Agway or similar farm supply stores. It is a strong oxidizer so don't mix with acid. There are lots of places on the net to get an MSDS. Here is one:
http://www.cleartech.ca/msdss/PERM.HTM
It has been a while since I used it, but I think I used a mix of about a tablespoon of crystals per about 8 oz of water. If possible, get water from one of those machines that WalMart or grocery stores have that are actually reverse osmosis machines. That will give you purer water. Avoiding chlorinated water might be a good plan.
Wipe the solution onto the wood and allow to sit for coolor to develop. Although the solution is purple, it will color the wood a brownish grey.
Perhaps some of you chemists can add to this.
Bob
While not directly addressing the question one method I used a few years ago was to route a profile on the cut edges (in this case the outside was left 'natural' & the inside machined) which was then masked up & polished. Still looked rustic but a bit classy as well. I think you'd need to try it on LPP & DF as I did it on one of our red eucalypts which resulted in a grey/red contrast.
Ever wondered what to do with those old rusty hinges which don't seem to have a mate? On a job site yesterday putting in 8'H x12'L entertainment unit (that's another story,) I noticed the client was into rustic stuff. One of her watercolours was framed in recycled hardwood with 4 hinges opened & screwed flat over the mitres (as corner bracing or as a feature - you decide). Now I'm a bit of a purist but my apprentice rekoned it wasn't a bad way to hide some dodgy joinery as well as the asthetic aspect.
Good luck
Don
Thanks for the tip. When you mentioned eucalyptus wood I thought of a computer desk that I built out of re-cycled eucalyptus 2x floor joists that were shipped to here(Bozeman, Montana USA). They were deeply weather checked and about 80-100 yrs. old. They said that they came from a wool warehouse in Australia.. Small world..They were terribly hard to finish. Bob
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