Replies

1. 
   RW | Apr 11, 2006 03:27am | #1

   Most? Thats pretty debatable. You can get into things that are very unique and not widely available, so lets just stick to things you can probably acquire in any decent sized city. First vote is conversion varnish. Trickier to work with than lacquer, but if you're comfy with finishing and spray equip, have at it. Vote 2 is catalyzed lacquer. Not the faux stuff that comes pre mixed but the stuff where you crack the can, add the acid, mix, and have 2 hours before you better be cleaning the pump.

   A local paint store here, when they started carrying conversion varnish a couple of years ago, had one of their painter customers spray up a mahogany piece, TV tray essentially, which they then submerged in a barrel of water for 40 days. It came out fine. Now that's a sales pitch. But I've heard too many issues from guys used to spraying regular lacquers and going to the varnish, so I throw in cat lacquer because the translation between the two is much more direct.

   "Sometimes when I consider what tremendous consequences come from little things, I am tempted to think -- there are no little things" - Bruce Barton

2. 
   SteveSchoene | Apr 11, 2006 03:27am | #2

   Any good varnish, perhaps with an extra coat or two to account for the extra moisture, and applied to both sides of the top will be quite moisture resistent.  You probably don't need the extra abrasion resistance of urethane, nor do you need the flexibility of spar varnish.  The trouble area will be where the sink joins the top.  This is going to require more care than Corian, so don't think of a zero maintenance situation.  It particular any accidental ding--or strong chemical, that penetrates the finish must be repaired immediately. 

   Priming with a couple of coats of low viscosity epoxy might aid adhesion.  Smith & Co. CPES is the one I am familiar with, though am just using it now for the first time.  I have no idea whether it might "splotch" on cherry--I am using it on teak.