Replies

1. 
   DougF | Nov 19, 2003 08:38pm | #1

   Nic,

   Since you are using an inset door, your options are fairly limited: either shim the style to be in square or taper cut the door to fit the opening.  You are correct that if you taper cut the door, when it opens it will be out of plumb; since the door does not normally stay open for very long, the distortion will not be that noticeable.   The tools that you have should be able to do the job.  When you cut the doors, be careful of tear-out from the jigsaw.   Experiment to see which side you should cut from in order to reduce the tear-out on the visible surface.  Sometimes running masking tape over the area to be cut will help the tear-out.   Once you get the exact measurement and layout for the taper cuts ( you may find that there are more than one taper cut since other parts of the cabinet could be out of square) clamp a guide fence to the board to insure a straight cut.  Inset doors require a very precise cut since the style provides a reference line that will emphasize the slightest imperfections in your cut.

   Good luck - Doug

2. 
   Midnight | Nov 20, 2003 04:57am | #2

   I've never done this... but personally I'd try to square the cabinet using a face frame; scribe the outer left side to suit the cupboard, leaving the inner face plum.

   Mike Wallace

   Stay safe....Have fun

1. 
   nic | Nov 20, 2003 07:34pm | #3

   Thanks for the suggestion.  Sorry for being such a novice but could you elaborate a little?  I'm unclear what a face frame is.  Essentially are you saying the make the inner cabinet space square by cutting the left side so it is straight up and down?

   What do you mean by scribe?  (draw a line from which to cut?)

   Once again can all this be done with my limited tools (jigsaw, level, right angle)

   Thanks

1. 
   Midnight | Nov 21, 2003 04:12am | #4

   nic....

   like I said... I haven't tried that myself.....

   I'm sure some of the others will step in to correct me if I'm wrong, but... basically a face frame is similar to a sorta picture frame.... only scaled up...

   this link might help some...

   http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/wvt004.asp

   Failing that, do an advanced search of the archives here for face frames; you'll get a far better definition than I could ever give you.

   Scribing..... is pretty simple. What it does is copy the profile of the piece you're jointing to...... onto the piece you're jointing with....

   To copy the profile, you need to make a simple tool. It's nothing more than a piece of scrap stick, 3-4" long with a hole drilled through it at one end. Hole needs to be tight enough to grip a pencil. The pencil needs to scribe onto something you can use as a template.... the opposite end butts against the profile you're copying. Starting at the bottom of the profile, hold the tool level and draw it slowly upwards, letting the profile guide the left / right movement of the tool. provided you've kept the tool as level as possible, the line scribed onto the template should be a near perfect copy of the profile.

   Transfer the template onto some stock and cut to the line with your jigsaw. The rest of the face frame should be nothing more complex than flat mitred corners.

   Sorry this is so long winded.... it's the kinda thing that... if I could SHOW you, you'd pick it up instantly... but takes forever to explain. Mike Wallace

   Stay safe....Have fun