Hi All,
I am going to be replacing a bathroon vanity and want to build one myself. Can anyone tell me where I can find information on designing my own. I will be using Melamine for the carcas and a face frame with raised pannel doors and drawers. I need assist with designing the door/drawer layout as well as the drawer/ door clearences for the face frame. I am sure there is some reference that can assist me but I cannot seem to find it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Steve
Replies
Hi Steve,
What size is your new vanity going to be (HeightXwidthXdepth)? I will be glad to share the dimensions I use, including door and drawer sizes, for 1/2" overlay construction.
Lee
Hi Lee,
Thanks so much for your response. The vanity is 43 inches wide, 30 inches high and 20 1/2 inches deep. The style I have in mind is 3 drawers on each side with the top drawers smaller than the other two. Then in the centered over the doors in line with the top drawers a raised panel section that folds out for Misc storage. It is similar to the kind you see below the sinks in kitchen cabinetry.
Thank you so much I really appreciate it.
Steve
Hi realtk1,
The hardware for the false front under the sink is called tip out tray hinges . Reva Shelf brand are easy to use and work well .
If you use an 18" sink bowl you will have about 10 - 11" openings on each side for the drawers. Smallish drawer interiors of about 8 or 9 " wide .
Consider making the finished ht closer to 32-34" for a more user friendly dimension .
hope this helps dusty
I'm for keeping the height taller as mentioned. Being a 6 footer, bending over to wash is much easier, even my 5'8" wife does not mind. Also a suggestion is to leave 4 or 5 inches behind the sink basin and the splash/wall. I've always hated faucets that were hard to clean around and behind. The extra depth does not really cost that much if you can make it work in your space, and it makes for much easier cleaning and lends to an organized look. Good luck,
Steve,
I would second dusty's recommendation on the taller sink base, but it's your decision. I'll draw it up both ways and let you decide. Give me a day or so and I will post something for you to look at.
Lee
I can't thank you enough Lee. You are appreciated!
Can't seem to upload the sketch of the 30" high vanity. Send me your email address and I will forward it to you via email.
Lee
[email protected]
I would recommend something much more water resistant than the usual particle board core Melamine. Get it wet and it's all over. Given particle board's poor fastner holding strength at best, I'd recommend making your face frame out of hardwood.
John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking
The more things change ...
We trained hard, but it seemed that every time we were beginning to form up into teams, we would be reorganized. I was to learn later in life that we tend to meet any new situation by reorganizing; and a wonderful method it can be for creating the illusion of progress while producing confusion, inefficiency, and demoralization.
Petronious Arbiter, 210 BC
I am using Melamine for the Carcas and Oak for the face frame. Do you see any issues with melamine for the carcas?
As a Master Plumber for over 30 years, melamine vanities are #1 on the hit parade of units I've had to replace! The bathroom moisture causes the mel. to pop off,the particle board to swell and the screws for door(s) come loose in no time. I agree with Elcoholic,use wood. Any type wood will be 100% better. Do you have a s..tload of mel. you're tring to use up?
A vanity will get damp with normal use. It will get wet when there's a leak, it's only a matter of time. Wet Melamine will fall apart. If it were me and I wanted a melamine-like surface I'd use laminate and ext or better yet, marine ply wood.John O'Connell - JKO Handcrafted Woodworking
The more things change ...
We trained hard, but it seemed that every time we were beginning to form up into teams, we would be reorganized. I was to learn later in life that we tend to meet any new situation by reorganizing; and a wonderful method it can be for creating the illusion of progress while producing confusion, inefficiency, and demoralization.
Petronious Arbiter, 210 BC
My first project was a bathroom renovation. I built two vanities. Birch plywood carcasses, maple drawers and cabinet doors. Limestone countertop. Ceramic sink. Picture attached.
I got interested in built-in furniture a few years before and I bought a book. After reading it once, I set it aside. The technique looked tricky to me (as a beginner). I revisited the book when my project came into focus. After re-reading it, I decided to give it a try. It worked well for me. The book is titled "Cabinets and Built-Ins - A practical guide to building professional-quality cabinetry" by Paul Levine and is available at Amazon for $2.15 (experienced version). You can pay about ten times more for a new copy. The back half of the book has detailed designs that you can modify for your own purposes. I have received lots of compliments - mind you nobody is allowed to use the bathroom without saying something nice first!
I don't care for designs that incorporate fake features like drawers that don't work. I have designed and built several bath cupboards and have found with a little out of the box thinking you can eliminate fake items and have a fully functional piece. All my bath pieces have been freestanding pieces. I have attached a pic of a recently complete piece that is designed in the idea of a Shaker Washstand.
Ron
Edited 12/6/2006 10:08 am ET by Ronaway
I want to thank everyone that has resopnded to my post. You all have given me som really valuable information. The photos were really appreciated as well. It is nice to see such good examples of others beautiful work.
Again thanks to all. You all have shown me what this forum is all about. People helping other people and sharing their ideas.
Steve
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