Replies

1. 
   Tao | Apr 02, 2005 12:00am | #1

   They had that kind of door on cellars and sheds a lot when I was a kid.  The joints between the boards were either tongue and groove or shiplap - both a better choice than splines, which unnecessarily introduce a third (loose) member to the joint.

   I would certainly caulk the joints between the boards on a cellar door, although I have never noticed it on vertical doors on barns and sheds.  I'd wait until the door was built, though.  If you are worried about alignment, build the door an inch or so oversize and trim after assembly. Otherwise, use a strip of wood on one end to butt the boards into. 

   Michael R

2. 
   joinerswork | Apr 02, 2005 12:21am | #2

   Glaucon,

   I agree with wiz that you'll be better off with tongue and groove joints instead of loose splines.  It won't hurt a thing to caulk the joints.

   For the down and dirty doors I've built, I attached the battens with screws from the inside.  Split the distance between the screws to average out the movement of each board, instead of holding them right to the edges of the boards.  I also run a diagonal  "batten" between the top and bottom ones, to counteract against sagging.  I have doors on my shop, built this way out of 1x6 t&g sheeting boards 20 yrs ago, still in service, good as new.

   Regards,

   Ray

1. 
   Glaucon | Apr 02, 2005 04:06pm | #3

   Thanks Michael and Ray-

   I appreciate your advice.  I do have a question-

   <Split the distance between the screws to average out the movement of each board, instead of holding them right to the edges of the boards.>

   Can you explain what you mean here? Thanks,

   Glaucon

1. 
   Tao | Apr 02, 2005 05:58pm | #4

   I think he means just to keep your screws a couple of inches in from the edges of each board to minimize the effects of wood movement.  With 6" boards, that should work OK.

   Michael R

1. 
   Glaucon | Apr 02, 2005 07:04pm | #5

   Got it.  I was intending to slightly oversize the holes for the screws in the battens (~1/16") to permit some movement. I was also going to use a diagonal batten that would lap joint into the horizontal battens.

   Glaucon

2. 
   joinerswork | Apr 04, 2005 12:14am | #6

   Glaucon,

   Just this: If your boards are 1X6's, and the batten is also a 1x6, then drill the holes in pairs about 1-1/2" from each edge of the batten, also same from the edges of the board.  Sort of a zig-zag pattern, that leaves the screws 3" apart in the board, and 3" of space between screws from one board to the next.

   Regards,

   Ray