Replies

1. 
   CharlieStanford | Aug 02, 2005 03:55am | #1

   You've done about everything anybody would expect a reasonable person to do.  If Boeshield won't do it I doubt if anything will.

   Not sure what's up metallurgically (sounds like they alluded to a problem of that sort)  but it doesn't need to become your problem.

   If you still have any energy left, one last thing you could try would be to sand the entire surface with 400 grit paper (maybe start with 220) until you improve the smoothness markedly and then try waxing it again.  I used to use car wax which all the doomsayers will assert will ruin a finish because of the silicone content.  I simply buffed it very well and had no problems.

   Use a sanding block and don't get overly aggressive.

1. 
   philip | Aug 02, 2005 08:54am | #5

   Stan,
   The doomsayers must have their say, but like you I have yet to experience any problems arising from the use of stuff containing the dreaded Silicone. In particular I use silicone spray on the beds of my thicknesser....I also use catalysed lacquers and no problems arise.

2. 
   Dan | Aug 02, 2005 04:14am | #2

   Aloha,

   Here's one thing more you can try, It's a product called "Waxilit".  You can get it from Lee Valley Tools.  Works for me here in Hawaii, a quite humid place.  Makes your top real slick too.

   Added advantage is that it is a glue resist that can be used before glue up.  First you dry fit, then lightly coat the adjacent surfaces with it.  After glue up, the squeeze out will peel right off.  Even if it doesn't work for your saw top you'll not have wasted your cash.

   One word of caution, however, mine came and had separated in the can.  Took a bit of mixing to get it re-dissolved.

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

    

   Mistakes are but an opportunity for fresh design!
1. 
   frederic | Aug 09, 2005 05:11am | #18

   I think my waxilit was seperated also, but since it was my first purchase, I didn't know what to think about it.

   What is the good stuff supposed to look like? Mine was watery with small clots-like particules. Certainely not pasty.

   And what did you do to correct the situation?

   Thank you.

   Fred

    

1. 
   Dan | Aug 09, 2005 10:38pm | #19

   Aloha,

   Yes, mine was the same, looked like small roundish particles.  I assumed that it had separated so I poured it into another container and used a drill operated paint mixer.  It took a long time but I finally reduced it to a paste.  I think if I had to do it over again, I would try to pour off as much of the solvent as I could and then mash up the remaining particles, adding the solvent back after.  Either that or I would take it down to Lowes and ask them to put it on their paint shaker.

   Worked fine after both as table lubricant and glue resist.  I probably should have brought it to Lee Valley's attention, they probably aren't aware of it and maybe they could do something about it.Mistakes are but an opportunity for fresh design!

3. 
   douglas2cats | Aug 02, 2005 04:56am | #3

   Just to save myself some typing, here's my 2 cents worth added to a similar thread a while back.

   http://forums.taunton.com/tp-knots/messages?msg=23990.2

   Waddaya mean it wont fit through the door?

4. 
   Walker1 | Aug 02, 2005 07:38am | #4

     english;        It might be the table top I don't know.

               I live in British Columbia,(aka the wet coast) and humidity is a big problem for me as well.  To keep the rust off my saw, in addition to using Top Cote, I mounted a 100 watt Halogen floodlamp in a reflective worklamp housing to the ceiling over the saw. The result is lots of radiant heat right on the saw , and it stays dry as a bone. I leave the light on most of the year, it's only 100watts.  I bought the worklamp housing at HD.

         

                   Cheers.                                       Walker1

5. 
   JerryPacMan | Aug 02, 2005 03:30pm | #6

   Do you keep the saw covered?  If you do not try a HTC machine tool cover.

    

   Life is what happens to you when you're making other plans .

1. 
   english | Aug 02, 2005 05:55pm | #7

   Thanks to all for the replies. I'm not familiar with the HTC covers. What exactly do they do and how well do they 'work'? Since posting and cleaning up the table saw, I took a look at it this morning. Streaks of rust are already appearing under the Top Coat and Boeshield T-9. It may very well be that the cast iron is faulty and I'll take it back to HD for a new one. Then I can start the process all over again!

   From what I've learned, some saws stay pretty rust-free with a minimum of effort and others are a constant chore. I've got mine in the garage for the summer and will take the new one into the basement, which is unheated but stays around 55 during the dead of winter here in Maine. I'll put a ventless gas heater down there so I can work in comfort when I wish and hopefully protectants and the heater will help. If the HTC cover seems like an added insurance I'll use it as well. The halogen light seems clever but two kilowatts a day up here in Maine translates to over a $100/year. Thanks again...english

1. 
   JerryPacMan | Aug 02, 2005 07:08pm | #9

   You definitely need to keep your cast iron tops covered.  The HTC covers are the best for this.  I usually get the medium size and use two on jointers and other large woodworking tools.  I use Slipit on my cast iron tops and keep my woodworking tools covered when not in use.  The link below is for HTC covers, read the reviews.

   http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B000022628/ref=pd_sim_hi_1/002-9298161-4440042?v=glance&s=hi&n=1000 

   Life is what happens to you when you're making other plans .

2. 
   Walker1 | Aug 02, 2005 08:41pm | #10

      english,    It sounds like the batch of Iron your top was made with was contaminated.

                      Wow, you guys pay a lot for power.

                 Cheers.                        Walker1 

3. 
   joinerswork | Aug 03, 2005 04:35pm | #11

   english,

   You mentioned your plans for a ventless gas heater in your basement.  Be aware that a by-product of combustiuon of propane is water vapor, which may not help your rust problem.

   Regards,

   Ray

1. 
   Ardmore | Aug 03, 2005 06:00pm | #12

   You might want to consider a "direct outside vent" stove like the Monitor.  I think it is approximately 93%, efficient per Monitor's advertising:

     http://www.medfordfuel.com/monitor_stoves.htm 

   It burns kerosene and all the combustion moisture goes to the outside and it has an automatic/thermo activated fan to circulate the heat.

   Kerosene is supposedly much less costly to heat with than propane.

   Edited 8/3/2005 11:05 am ET by ardmore

6. 
   PlaneWood | Aug 02, 2005 06:05pm | #8

   English -

   I have run 100's of cast iron planes through electrolysis and have found a few (maybe 3 or 4) that have that problem.  My guess is that at some time in their life, they have been exposed to some kind of chemical.   No matter what you do, the rust keeps coming back, and usually in just one spot.  It could possibly be contamination that entered the metal during the casting process.  It almost seems like it is rusting from the inside out.

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_Katy (maker of fine sawdust!)
   PlaneWood

7. 
   WillGeorge | Aug 03, 2005 10:21pm | #13

   Either something is wrong with the cast iron top ???
   Iron RUSTS!

8. 
   Metod | Aug 04, 2005 04:20am | #14

   English,

   Here is one more suggestion (I believe it was from my table saw manual): talcum powder (Johnson&Johnson's baby powder is a scented possibility, readily awailable).

   There is no guarantee that it will help - but would not be a lot of trouble trying it.

   I wish that you will soon solve this nasty problem. Of course, if there is a 'chronic' problem, only a replacement will do. There must be some substance (rust catalyst?) in the casting, that provokes oxidization.

   Best wishes,

   Metod

9. 
   philip | Aug 04, 2005 12:18pm | #15

   English,
   While you are procrustinating over sending that Frigid back, try this:-
   Apply some of that liquid rust remover (phosphoric acid I think) with a brush. Cast iron is porous. Let it dry, until it makes that grey powder.Rub it off with steel wool or an abrasive pad---then get some French chalk or talcum powder and rub that in and finally apply a hard wax such as carnauba.
   French chalk is what the industrial boys used way back when Will George still had mother's milk in his nose-it was anti-friction and a rust preventer, as it filled the pores of the iron.
   This may be applicable if you get a replacement and the condition persists.But then again, what with Frizzilys and the like, one never knows what may or may not be going on with the "cast" iron...
   Author's note: some light-hearted humour crept into an otherwise sincere post (somehow)

10. 
    WillGeorge | Aug 08, 2005 09:11pm | #16

    I have one of those.. I only have problems if I forget and put my wet bottomed coffeecup on it?

    Rust does NOT mean BAD! Just the metal.. I was a Tank mechanic that operated a old tank retriever.....

    MY best, strongest chain, got me in trouble ALL the time at inspection... They wanted 'clean' chains.. ??? What idiots..

    It rusted.. ALOT SO WHAT.. Well At last I could drag it in the dirt to clean it off a bit... That chain was about 100 foot long and held up about 20 Tons as I remember...

    
    

    ---

    Edited 8/8/2005 2:13 pm ET by Will George

1. 
   joinerswork | Aug 09, 2005 01:15am | #17

   Will,

   Country comedienne Minnie Pearl  (Howwwdy!) used to tell the story about an ol' boy walking down the road dragging a log chain.  He meets a neighbor who naturally asks "Why are you dragging that length of chain?"  "Listen, Mister, did you ever try PUSHIN one of these things?!!"

   Cheers,

   Ray