Hi everyone:
I’m a new member to your forum from Canada. I’ve been woodworking since I retired 9 years ago and have enjoyed the projects that have come my way from family and friends. (lots of friends) I just recieved a new project that I haven’t tackled as yet, a bead board door. I can’t quite figure out how to put a bead in the middle of a panel. Do you have to make the panel in sections, kind of like a tongue and groove or is there some tool to do this. HELP
Thanks in advance’
Harold1
Replies
Harold,
Welcome, and thanks for the Canadian air this morning here in Boston...feels really good. Not that I have done this, but you did answer your own question...T&G boards with a bead on the edge...the T&G can be cut with a router...and the bead can be cut with a router..beading bit. Maybe someone will come on that has done this to provide more details.
I believe Norm on NYW used to do it on the TS using molding blades..
Edited 8/15/2003 8:06:00 AM ET by BG
BG
Your welcome for the cool Canadian air, although in my area today it was a wonderfully cool 90 plus degrees and if that wasn't enough, it was also humid. Thanks for your response to the bead board question. You kind of verified my thoughts on the matter. I did kind of consider grinding a table saw molding head cutter that cut 3 beads into one that will only cut one and I still may do that. Anyway, thank you for your answer.
Harold
I spend more time over at Breaktime, so I don't know if MDF is a four letter word at Knots. If so, ignore this post.
If mdf is ok, note that vintage mouldings in truro ns sells beadboard in 6" wide x 8 ft long boards. Actually looks nice. Did the walls of my mudroom with them. I faxed them my order, it shipped that afternoon. http://www.vintagemouldings.ca
If you buy beadboard, there is a bead near the tongue and one in the middle of the board. If you want to duplicate this then the quickest way would be with a "Magic Molder" for the tablesaw. You would probably end up dropping more than $100US for this tool. Of course, it does have other applications.
For one project like this, I would just make narrower boards so that the router beading bit can be used on each tongue edge.
I did a beadboard covered bathroom vanity that was finished with a white pigmented lacquer. It looks nice, but you can easily see which bead is "fake" (the one in the middle of the board) and which is near the tongue, because you have to leave a slight expansion gap between boards. It would have looked better if I cut my own narrower boards as I described above.
Woonitbenice:
Thanks for your response to my quiry. It's really great to hear from people that are willing to give their expertise to others. Since this is my first forum it's way too nice to know that someone took the time out of their schedule to help someone else.
I did consider grinding a TS molding head cutter to cut one bead instead of the three that it's designed for and I am leaning towards that way, but I'm still tossed.
Thanks,
Harold
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