Replies

1. 
   jako17 | Jan 23, 2006 02:47am | #1

   Two ways ,Either mill the stock and form the bead on it .Then do the joinery .Or the simplist way for those of less experience, produce rectangular stock, do the joinery, produce the bead and quirk and apply it round the openings.Done well and fastened with glue and 23 ga headless pins is good enough  for a lot of applications.

1. 
   dlb | Jan 24, 2006 05:36am | #2

   Thanks for the reply. If I cut the bead first, can I stop it on the style where the rail will intersect or is there another way? I do not want to 'add' a quirk and bead using nails - I would rather route it into the stock. So I guess that my question should be can I route that type of bead into stock & if so how is it done?

   Thanks again for the reply,

   dlb

   .

    The undisciplined life is not worth examining.

1. 
   jako17 | Jan 24, 2006 06:02pm | #3

   Two ways of cutting the mitre on the stile that come to mind are :1)cut along the quirk with a tenon saw and form the mitre cut using a chisel and mitre block .2) set the table saw to 45 deg and make a series of cuts almost through the quirk ,cleaning up with a chisel .You can also use the same method with a SCMS with a depth stop set to limit the cut.However I suggested 23ga pins and hide glue not "nails"and if you have a lot to do this  method works well.I have used it on many projects and find it very cost effective.Again I am making a living doing this so my pressures are somewhat different.Try both ways on some scrap first.All the best Jako

    

    

2. 
   BG | Jan 24, 2006 10:29pm | #4

   dlb,
   I only did it once and it was a bear. The bead runs the full length and then is cut away where the stile meets the rail. Measuring was a problem as was aligning the TS with the blade at 45 degrees. I had better luck using the bandsaw and a mite guage at 45 degrees...I could sneek up on the lines with no fear of tareout and keeping the stock square to the blade. Appling a bead is much easier.

2. 
   patrickk | Jan 29, 2006 03:31am | #5

   dlb- I just finished a kitchen that had this bead, what I did was shapped the bead on the stiles and mitred the corners then assembled the face frame with pocket hole screws. I then applied the beading on the rails. I used a gullitine cutter to get the cuts perfect. Worked out very nice. Sorry for the spelling of the cutter.

1. 
   dlb | Jan 30, 2006 03:50pm | #6

   thanks for the info. Sounds like there is a need for "another tool" to handle this type of work - another opportunity for someone to invent a router bit, etc., and make a bunch of money!!

   dlb

   .

    The undisciplined life is not worth examining.

3. 
   corners | Jan 31, 2006 01:28am | #7

   If you've only got a few to do it's probably simpler and quicker to use hand tools such as a hand beading tool or scratch stock than to set up power tools.

1. 
   DonStephan | Jan 31, 2006 01:36am | #8

   I'd like to heartily second the scratch stock suggestion. With a piece of old saw blade or such and a very small chain saw file, you can shape a very fine bead with any width of flat behind it for visual emphasis.

2. 
   dlb | Jan 31, 2006 03:28am | #9

   I have given that serious thought and have made the blade holder from one I saw in FWW. I just need to get some scrap metal for the blade. It does seem to make more sense to make one that way than to have to use the power tools.

   dlb

   .

    The undisciplined life is not worth examining.

1. 
   corners | Jan 31, 2006 07:02am | #11

   For suitable scratch stock blades go to your local saw sharpening shop and ask for some pieces of old industrial bandsaw blades about 1 inch wide.

4. 
   hen0232 | Jan 31, 2006 04:41am | #10

   A very easy way to make beads is to take a drywall screw and grind half the head off.

   If you then screw this into a small wood block for a guide. and adjust the depth for the distance from the edge of your stock.

   Draw this block along the stock and it makes a great bead. The outer edge can be sanded round if desired.

5. 
   DCarr10760 | Jan 31, 2006 02:34pm | #12

   I make the bead with a Stanley 45, but if you are going to make up a scratch stock, make the bead how it looks right to you, but keep the shoulder of the quirk a standard dimension so that the bead plus the quirk is 5/16 or 3/8 or something.  The reason for this is that in sizing your rails you will need to add this length to each end (because you are removing the bead where they meet).

   Making the bead and quirk a standard dimension will make it easier to lay everything out.  To cut the miter on the bead I make a block with an accurate miter and a rabbet to fit over the edge clamp it and pare away.

   David C.