Has anyone tried to apply a bead to the face of a drawer front? A 1/4″ router bead leaves a nice detail on the drawer front, but the corners are difficult to complete accurately. Does anyone have any suggestions?
Thank You
Rick
Has anyone tried to apply a bead to the face of a drawer front? A 1/4″ router bead leaves a nice detail on the drawer front, but the corners are difficult to complete accurately. Does anyone have any suggestions?
Thank You
Rick
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Replies
Rick:
I always cut a rabbet all around the drawer front to recieve a separate strip with the beaded edge. The corners are mitered and fastened with glue and brads. You can do it with the router by stopping short of each corner and finishing the corner with carving tools.
Work safely ¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬PAT¬¬¬¬¬¬¬
I'm with Pat...other way, (hand carving the corners) would be brain damage,and probably not look as good.
Just as Pat said.
This is alot of work. However, it really dresses up the piece nicely.
Good luck,
Frank
Edited 4/25/2004 7:52 am ET by BISCARDI
Rick,
Cockbead is most often applied as a separate molding laid into a rabbet around the perimeter of the drawer front. Usually it is 1/8" up to 3/16" thick, mitered at the corners, and projects about one half its thickness above the plane of the drawer front.
A less sophisticated approach is to work the bead onto the front itself, with a scratch stock. A simple one may be made by running a #8 or 10 flat head slotted screw into the face of a block of hardwood of a convenient size to hold- perhaps 7/8 thick, 2" x3". Let the screw head project above the surface of the block to determine the size of the bead you want to make. File one side of the slot away on each side of the screw head, so the point that is left will scrape going either way. Use it by dragging it along the edge of the drawer front, gradually increasing the angle of attack as the screw does its thing. Finish the corners with a skew or v-chisel (parting tool). Round over the outside corners with block plane or coarse sandpaper. This goes faster than you'd think. For a simple country piece it's quite effective. Has the advantage of not being easily knocked loose as the applied cockbead sometimes is.
Regards,
Ray
Thank you very much for the information. I will try your suggestion.
Rick
I remember reading an article specifically for cockbeading by Garrett Hack a few years ago. A quick search on the FWW index gave me the following:
March/April 1997 - #123
by Garrett Hack
A 17th-century detail stands the test of time
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