Replies

1. 
   IndyDan | May 31, 2004 12:10am | #1

   Normally, cockbeading is inset flush with the drawer.

1. 
   JHall | May 31, 2004 08:22pm | #5

   Thanks for the input.  Do you know of any good references which give a basic tutorial on the application of beading to furniture?

1. 
   hans | Jun 03, 2004 02:02am | #9

   There is a complete tutorial in a back issue of FWW . It is between 5 and 10 years ago. The article was written by Garrett Hack.

   Hans

2. 
   SEBDESN | May 31, 2004 12:40am | #2

   I make the bead proud of the case..I.e. the face of the drawer is flush with the case and the bead sticks out above that level,otherwise it would look odd with the face of the drawer back from the face of the case. (Not sure if that was clear). I think you can put the bead on the drawer or the case.   

3. 
   Floss | May 31, 2004 01:41am | #3

   Jack,

   Cockbeading should project 1/2 of the diameter of the bead. 1/8" bead = 1/16" projection of the cockbead. If the bead is flush you lose the detail and have an awkward shadow line where the bead meets the case, in my opinion.

   J.P.

4. 
   joinerswork | May 31, 2004 04:48am | #4

   jack,

   Typically the drawer front remains flush with the plane of the case front.  The cock bead is most often about 1/8"-3/16" thick, and is applied so it projects by 1/2 that above the plane of the drawer front.  (the profile is semicircular) Occasionally, you'll see the bead worked onto the solid front with a scratch stock or some such, in which case, of course, it's flush. Applied cockbead was often used to protect the delicate edges of veneered drawer fronts.

   Working the bead onto the case itself is a more elegant technique, as the bead is less likely to be knocked loose or otherwise damaged by everyday use.  It takes more effort, as the balance of the case front has to be relieved to leave the bead proud of the surface, and the joinery of the case/drawer blade (or rail) junction is complicated by your having to miter the beads together in addition to the dovetail, or mortise and tenon of the joint itself.  Also, you would lose the protection to the drawer fronts, if they are veneered.

   Regards,

   Ray

1. 
   CStanford | Jun 01, 2004 11:06pm | #6

   Working the bead onto the case itself is a more elegant technique, as the bead is less likely to be knocked loose or otherwise damaged by everyday use.

   But defeats the intended purpose of protecting veneered drawer fronts as you mentioned.  The bead is SUPPOSED to take the damage.  Let it.  Well used furniture will get dinged from time to time.  I like the look of this kind of wear everywhere but on drawer fronts.  Dings really foul up the look of the piece and the tight clearances of the drawers/casework the maker worked so hard to achieve.

   Originally applied with hide glue, they are easy to remove and repair, which I'm fairly sure is what the original makers intended.  I think they were correct.

   Even if used on a solid drawer front (admittedly a little ersatz), they provide protection from dinging the drawer front itself.  Damaged cockbead is much easier to repair than a damaged drawer front.  What would you rather remove and replace - cockbeading or a dovetailed drawer front?

1. 
   joinerswork | Jun 02, 2004 04:59am | #7

   c,

   It seems to me that the purpose of the cockbead is twofold:  1) To protect the edges and corners of the drawer fronts, especially when they are veneered, and 2) to help hide any discrepancies in the fit between the case and the drawer front.  The second is most apparent on pieces with shaped fronts.  Newport blockfronts, and New England bombe, oxbow and serpentine front case pieces come to mind.  Most of those pieces do not have veneered drawer fronts, so the protection of the drawers is of less consideration.  Matching the curves on drawer and case across the front of the piece is the greater problem.  A  projecting 3/16" bead will effectively mask a slight misalignment here, and my opinion is that the makers of these pieces were opting for putting the bead where it would be less likely to be damaged. 

   Southern corner cupboards are another form where the beading (around door openings as well as drawers) is typically worked on the case members rather than otherwise. This beading is usually flush with the surface on which it's worked. I've seen a few chests of drawers here in VA made of yellow pine, with fairly large (1/4") beading on the case.  I'm guessing that the makers opted for a  large bead because 1/8" would be too delicate in pine, and stuck it on the case for the visual effect of the quirk on the stuck side of the bead, matched by the gap around the drawer or door.  (Like working a bead on the edge of a backing board to hide the crack between it and the next board)  Other pine pieces I've had in the shop have had typical 1/8" cockbeading on the drawer fronts, but in a more durable wood, like maple, or cherry.

   Speaking of replacing cockbead, the place where it most often has problems is, of course, on the ends of the drawers.  Seasonal movement will break the bead loose, the wider the drawer front, the more movement, then the next time the drawer is closed the piece hanging in the breeze is knocked off.  Like you said, though, I'd rather patch a cockbead than match a piece of veneer!

   Regards,

   Ray

1. 
   CStanford | Jun 02, 2004 01:59pm | #8

   I agree with what you said.  Very nice coverage of the use of beads.  FW could use a an article, no kidding.  You ought to propose something.