Any of you folks use one of the beading tools such as the Lie-Nielsen Bronze Beading Tool? I’m thinking of getting one but was wondering what others who have used it or something similar have to say.
Thanks for any input.
Lar
Any of you folks use one of the beading tools such as the Lie-Nielsen Bronze Beading Tool? I’m thinking of getting one but was wondering what others who have used it or something similar have to say.
Thanks for any input.
Lar
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Replies
Lar,
I have the Lie-Nielsen beading tool and I use it rather often. Because I also have a combination plane which cuts beads--more easily than does the LN beader--I don't use it for everything. But for some circumstances, unruly grain, curved edges, and so on, it's the right tool.
I have also made a few cutters for it out of the blanks from LN. That is where I really get my money's worth out of it. It is an easy and inexpensive way to get whatever profile the work calls for. (I long ago swore off routers and most all other power tools.)
Like all LN tools it is a delight to use, or to just hold. You won't be disappointed (except the two "router" cutters are nearly useless).
Alan
Hey Alan,
Thanks for the information. I too will be saying goodbye to the routers very soon. I plan on also getting the combination plane. The only combination plane I've seen is Stanley's, from the UK.
Lar
Lar,
The Stanley UK combination plane is the one in my tool box. I've been very happy with it. It's been no trouble: all the irons work well and do what they're supposed to do (I have all twenty-five irons for it).
(A story I love to tell: I got the Stanley combination plane, new, still in the box with only one iron that had been sharpened, along with a brand new, still wrapped in plastic and covered with grease Record #7 for less than fifty dollars at a widow's sale!)
The Stanley isn't the only one still made. Clifton now makes and markets the Clico combination plane. It is superior to the Stanley. It's better made and comes with a huge assortment of irons, with a second set (no duplications) available. The only drawback is you have to be made of money yourself, marry well, or have a money tree growing in the garden to be able to afford it (if I could afford it I'd sell you my Stanley and get the Clifton/Clico). Last time I looked both Highland Hardware and Woodcraft carry the Clifton/Clico.
Alan
Alan,
Congrats on that purchase you did very well.
I"ll check out the Clifton but may also have to settle for the Stanley.
Thanks,
Lar
Dieter Schmit at Fine-tools usually has the best prices on Clifton tools and is also good to deal with. Berlin Germany.
Philip
I have the Lie Nielsen bronze beading tool and love it. Get it if you want a nice hand-worked look and the ability to get places you may not be able to get an electric router.
Chas
Will do and thanks for the info.
Lar
Recently, I found that the router bit I expected to use to cut a bead just didn't give a good bead (too wide a groove). It was late sunday and I was making relatively crude doors for a small shed addition to the back of my garage (for the air compressor and dust collector). I made a quick scratch stock with a walnut cutoff, a thin plywood fence, and a short shaped piece of drill rod. I ground the sides of the drill rod to give the reverse of a bead profile and put it into the walnut at about a 80 degree trailing angle. It worked OK, although the cheap fir was not the best wood for beading this way and I am a neophyte with scratch stocks. The doors look great now that they're painted.
Doing the job, I was struck by the thought that carpenters from the last couple of centuries would all recognize the operation and all had a couple of different homemade scratch stocks in their toolboxes. I wouldn't try to bead fine furniture with this tool, but there's something special about using a tool that you make yourself and using in in the same way such homemade tools have been used for a couple of centuries.
For the cost of a bit of wood, two or three gutter bolts, washers, wingnuts (or hex nuts) and a broken hacksaw blade, you can custom make any bead profile you want, like the illustration. Slainte.
Slainte & TeleMike - both you guys have some great ideas. Thanks to both of you.
Some nice STUFF displayed Slainte. Especially like the mahogany chair.
Lar
Lar,
So long as everyone is telling about their home made beading tools:
Before I got my combination plane and beading tool I used a home made device to cut beads. It could not be simpler: as per Roy Underhill, it's just a screw in a piece of flat scrap. The screw scrapes off the wood and the scrap piece acts is the fence. I made them for all different widths and depths using different size screws. I filed flat the edge of the screw's head so it would cut a little easier; but other than that no other fussing is needed. For deeper beads I used a screw with a wider head. For wider beads I didn't turn the screw in quite so far. I still use them in some situations. It's a good tool to clean up where the plane and/or beading tool don't do quite as well as they should.
Alan
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