Replies

1. 
   BOBSKIBBY | Jul 15, 2002 03:08am | #1

   While I have never cut threads in wood I have done plenty of pipe threads. The die has to be sharp and well lubricated. Maybe try bees wax while cutting. Also do it slowly and back it off frequently to remove the shavings. As in metal they build up and jam in the cutters. Hope that helps a little BOB

2. 
   bmcminn841 | Jul 15, 2002 04:52am | #2

   I have never threaded wood before but, if I were going to try, I would start with a tight grained wood like maple or birch instead of oak.  I hope that helps.

3. 
   qldwoodie | Jul 16, 2002 01:03am | #3

   None,

   Sounds like you've got your cutter set a bit deep and/or a bit out of line.  You are making it a bit tough for yourself by trying your first threads on Oak, but the system you're using will do it ok, once set-up right.  (But don't even think of trying Oak in a conventional threadbox!).  I haven't used the Beal, I made my own threading kits with tapped wood blocks long before Beal came out with their elegant but pricey plastic inserts.   The principle is exactly the same, so my experiences should be relevant.

   About the easiest wood to cut nice threads on is Apple, or some tight-grained wood like it (Dogwood is also excellent).  It is better to have the dowel slightly UNDER-sized.  Wood threads need to be a bit more sloppy than metal.  If the dowel is a little loose (not much, just fits very freely in the pilot hole), you cut truncated threads, ie, no top - these won't shred the way a sharp-topped thread does.

   You should be able to screw the dowel thru very easily with your fingers alone - try to keep it moving evenly so you don't get little imperfections when you stop.  Does the Beal come with little handles for cranking the dowel?  They help, at first, but I just use both hands and keep it moving - you get a better 'feel' for what's happening.  You shouldn't need to stop and back out - the sawdust should clear adequately.  If it's getting into the thread, something's wrong.  I find getting the cutter in the right position fore-and-aft is the tricky bit - if you don't, the cut thread is the wrong pitch, and it will quickly bind in the nut, which is trying to pull it thru at the correct pitch.

   I was lucky - the first time I tried it, I got a perfect thread.  The next time took much more fiddling to get it set up, but at least I knew it was possible.  Once you do get a good thread, save a bit to help set up the next time.  When you get it right, you can crank out miles of threads in no time.  The 1/2" size is useful for thumbscrews and all manner of little knicknacks, and the 3/4 is great for making handscrews with about 8" jaw capacity.

   IW

1. 
   bwitte9 | Jul 16, 2002 04:18am | #5

   IWILKIE, do you have drawings or pictures of your shopmade threader? I would like to attempt to build one myself.

   I'd appricaite any help in that regards, Thanks B.

2. 
   Worsham3 | Jul 16, 2002 04:34pm | #6

    could you email me pictures and details of your home made threader? I have some jigs I would like to build and threaded dowels instead of all thread would be nicer. My addy is [email protected]. Thanks alot.  RickW.

1. 
   qldwoodie | Jul 17, 2002 12:34am | #7

   OK - I'm a bit busy right now, but will try to post a drawing and picture sometime soon.  There was an article describing the setup (not by me) in FWW sometime in the early 80's.  I just tried looking it up, but either Taunton has dropped their online index, or I can't figure out the new system - probably the latter.  If you can do it, try looking for "wooden threads"  - there were several useful articles back about then.

   IW

   Edited 7/16/2002 5:34:57 PM ET by IWILKIE

2. 
   qldwoodie | Jul 18, 2002 04:53am | #8

   Rick, and B9

   I don't seem to be able to attach files, either, so haven't ben able to post the requested pictures (see elsewhere on Knots).  I'll email you direct with a couple pictures, Rick.  If you want to send me your email address, B9, I'll do the same...

   Cheers,

   Ian W.

4. 
   JimGG | Jul 16, 2002 01:12am | #4

   I've had my Beall for over a dozen years. The Beall literature cautions that the hardware store dowels (ramin wood) are often undersize (dia.) and egg shaped, probably from being too wet when cut. These ramin dowels will cause you problems. I've bought my dowels from Beall, with good results. They have a vested interest in selling good (round with accurate size) dowels, which makes their threader perform at its best. I mostly use maple, which cuts clean.

5. 
   LCHN | Jul 18, 2002 07:55am | #9

   my threader (Chinese? Taiwanese?) insructions say to thoroughly wipe down the dowel with something like TUng oil which I assume lubricates it a little and makes it not so brittle???

1. 
   mitch | Jul 18, 2002 10:19pm | #10

   I just happened to be flipping through an old FW Techniques 5 that I picked up at a used book store the other day (along with nos. 1,3,4,6,7- still need no. 2) and ran across this contributon:

   "To cut perfect wooden threads, immerse the dowel in hot paraffin for ten minutes prior to threading. Thread while the dowel is still warm.  The shavings roll out of the die in a neat string, leaving a perfect thread base.  The method works even on hard-to-thread woods like oak."  Al Grendahl, St. Paul, Minn.

   I hope this helps.  I have a lot of experience cutting threads in metal but none whatsoever in wood.  Good luck.

   Mitch

1. 
   cstein5 | Jul 24, 2002 07:28am | #11

   Soaking the stock in hot paravine sounds like a good idea.  I think that I'll try it the next time.  Right now Im working on another project,  but I know that I'll get back to threading again soon.