Replies

1. 
   DougF | Aug 05, 2006 06:38pm | #1

   Most of the fastener hardware will work.  I think the most secure/strongest method is the M&T with bed bolt.  BTW, "bed bolts" cost around $6 each plus the "special" tool to tighten them.  I used 6" case-hardened steel bolts at $1 each and a standard socket set.  This method is about as foolproof as you can get using the fewest possible parts and thus, fewer potential points of failure.  This joint takes more effort but the result is stronger and more professional joint.  Regardless of the design, IMHO, the decorative bolt head covers make the whole thing look very classy.

2. 
   MikeB | Aug 06, 2006 04:31am | #2

   I've made my own bed and a bed for my sister and her husband as well as my brother and his wife all using those Rockler fasteners. They work great and I've never had a problem. You do have to remember to install a dowel rod or equivelant in the bed rails because the screws might not hold well in the wood end grain. I like them because they are hidden from view.

3. 
   skidkid | Aug 06, 2006 06:44pm | #3

   Bed bolts work very well, regular bolts too.

   For a wood to wood connection how about using a tusk tenon?

   Pasa bon dia.

4. 
   cwalvoord | Aug 07, 2006 10:03pm | #4

   I once tried something similar to the hardware in the Rockler link you gave and found that the bed squeaked and the joints eventually developed a gap. I did not want to go with traditional bed bolts or some sort of tusk joint, as others have suggested, for aesthetic reasons. I am sure both of those options can be made to work well. I wanted something that would not show from the outside.

   I have made two beds using a bracket made from a piece of angle iron of roughly one inch on each side. I drill holes in the angle iron for machine screws and put threaded inserts into the head and foot boards and the side rails. I like this system for a few reasons: 1) it is completely invisible from the outside, 2) it is very strong and completely squeak free (one of the beds is 15+ years old now) and 3) by making it yourself you can adapt the dimensions to your specific design. The machine screws make disassembly easy if slightly more time consuming than a traditional bed bolt.

   I got the threaded inserts from McMaster Carr. They have a good selection of thread sizes and materials. You want wood threads on the outside and machine threads on the inside. Do not get any sort of press in variety. Remember that good engineering practice dictates that your inserts should be stronger than the screws. That way if you do accidentally tighten them too much it will be the easily replaceable screw that strips, not the insert. Also, I find it easier to install the inserts by putting a screw with a nut or two already threaded on it into the insert and then using the slot in the screw head to drive the screw/insert assembly into its hole. The little notches on the outside of the insert itself always seem to strip.

   Hope the idea is useful.
   Chris

1. 
   John_D | Aug 07, 2006 11:19pm | #5

   I find it easier to install the inserts by putting a screw with a nut or two already threaded on it into the insert and then using the slot in the screw head to drive the screw/insert assembly into its hole. The little notches on the outside of the insert itself always seem to strip.

   Like you say, putting a nut or two (using the second as a jam nut) on a machine screw or, even better, a hex bolt, is a great way to push in an insert and a huge improvement over trying to use those little slots in the insert.  Even better, if you're doing a few, is a $5 wrench like this one at Woodcraft.  It's better because you can turn it in below flush if you wish, and you don't have to mess around with the nuts.  I also find it easier to thread it in straight and true.My goal is for my work to outlast me.  Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.

1. 
   cwalvoord | Aug 07, 2006 11:38pm | #6

   Yes, getting them in straight is also a challenge. That Woodcraft tool does look like it would work well with the large handle and a nice flat bearing surface. Good suggestion. It takes some torque to get the inserts into hardwood. The last time I put some into q/s white oak I ended up using my drill press. It went fast but I think that hand wrench would be more accurate.
   Chris

1. 
   John_D | Aug 08, 2006 03:04am | #7

   I last put 'em in to some hard maple.  The wrench, along with a good pilot hole, made it pretty easy.  If I found it more difficult I was going to wax the threads before inserting but it turned out to be unnecessary.

   I've heard of people doing on the DP but that seemed more difficult to me, well done!My goal is for my work to outlast me.  Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.