I am in the process of designing a bed to fit a full size mattress. My plan is to use mortise and tenon joinery for the headboard and foot board. To attach the rails, I was thinking about using the two part fasteners that are mortised in to the ends of the rails and adjacent sides of the leg posts. In a FWW article back in 2005, the author cautions about using this type of a fastener in beds that are only used on occasion. He also suggested using dowels drilled/glued into the side of the rails to give the screws something more than end grain to bite in to. Any comments/suggestions?
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Kieran
Replies
Like this you mean Kieran? These Häfele versions of this type of hardware are excellent and extremely solid in my experience.
View Image
Note the end grain orientation of the 18 mm diameter oak dowels giving best purchase for the screws and least likelihood of the dowels splitting as the screws are driven home, or splitting in use. I completely fail to understand the author's position concerning use of this type of hardware for beds used occasionally. Can you expand on what he said and his or her reasoning? Slainte.
Richard Jones Furniture
And I agree with you in questioning the reasoning as I just used the exact set-up you pictured on a bed. I didn't for-see problems before I chose it and can't imagine any after the fact.
I didn't use the dowels either (which is an excellent idea BTW), just 3 1/2" # 10 Spax screws with a pilot hole drilled one drill bit size smaller. It required a dip of the tip of that screw in petroleum jelly to get it home. It is secure as I had never used the hardware before and I put the point of a block of wood on the attached male component and popped it with a 2 lb. hammer twice. Not one thread gave.
This was done on a mock up of scrap end piece of same stock just for a look before I leaped. With the results, I didn't see any problem and don't expect one. So....
Sarge..
BTW ktdaam.. if you do use this type hardware, there is a up and down as to how it has to attached and don't forget to cut a slot behind the female receiver to accept the depth of the male piece. Whatever all that means.. ha.. ha... ha..ha..ha..
Thanks to both Richard and Sarge. For a long time, I have admired the work both of you produce and trust your input.Richard, the original article was in FWWJan/Feb 2005, pages 37-41, The Anatomy of a Bed. The author was Jeff Miller and his main concern was that "if the fasteners loosen up, it is hard to fix the problem" As far as I can tell,these type of fasteners seem to be quite common on beds. I definitely agree with his suggestions about using dowels for some cross grain holding.Thanks again.Kieran
My counter to Jeff Miller's caution is, "Put them in right to begin with and they won't come loose." I've been using this kind of hardware on beds and fixing them with cross dowels as pictured since the late 1970's.
I've never had a client come back and complain about the hardware coming loose, and I'm still in touch with one or two of those clients from that far back. I'm sure they'd let me know if there is problem. Slainte. Richard Jones Furniture
Thanks again Slainte. I will go with your recommendation. Any hints on mortising the plate in to the end grain?
Kieran
I just upend the rail in the vise and use a cramped on bit of wood to increase the bearing surface for the router base and rout away- like here. Sorry the image is a bit small, but you'll probably be able to see what's going on. Slainte.View ImageRichard Jones Furniture
Thanks again. Good thing I have tall ceilings in part of my shop.
Kieran
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