Replies

1. 
   Steinmetz | Jun 17, 2004 07:07am | #1

   Joe, if you can scrape away the beaded up glue and gently spread the split a bit wider with two awls or wedges enough to admit new glue , (Hypodermic injecter)you'll be able to glue and clamp the post back together.

   After the glue is good and dry, you might want to reinforce the area with a couple of threaded rods with washers and nuts on each end.  (Hidden by two Wood plugs of matching wood)

   Drill small through holes first , then COUNTER BORE both sides deep enough for the washers ,nuts,and  plug s, then enlarge original pilot hole to fit the threaded rod .(1/4"?)

   Stein.

   
   

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   Edited 6/17/2004 12:10 am ET by steinmetz

1. 
   JoeParrish | Jun 17, 2004 04:29pm | #2

   Stein, I've already completely opened up the split (i.e. I have several pieces) and the excess glue is in between the pieces (coating each side) preventing them from being glued back into original tollerance.  I'm afraid adding more glue will result in another weak bond due to excess glue.

   The all-thread might work but I'm not sure if there would be enough wood left in the split piece to have any strength once I counterbore for concealment.  The piece is about 1/2" at widest tapering to nothing, roughly triangular in cross section if you look down the piece lengthwise.  I was thinking of using several screws since they are easier to conceal.  But I still have to remove the excess glue to a good fitting repair.  The previous repair incorporated wood dowels, bridging the split, to little apparent effect.

   Joe

2. 
   notDusty | Jun 17, 2004 05:01pm | #3

                Joe-no-seph ,

           That is a tough spot to repair. It is already weak from the slot and cutout for the pins and bracket.Since yours has been broken and poorly repaired in the past , you got double trouble.If there is enough meat left I would scrape and chisel the old glue off as much as possible. If you feel there is enough meat for strength then I would use the old fashioned Urea Resin type of glue or whatever is currently on the market. When I apprenticed at a restoration shop we would use the brown powdered resin marine type glue when we had old glue that was present. Otherwise you can perhaps make a new bottom section of the post, cut and dowel it back together, or I hate to say it ,make a new corner post.

                                good luck                dusty

1. 
   JoeParrish | Jun 17, 2004 08:57pm | #4

   Dusty,

   I kinda like your last suggestion.  The wife has been encouraging me to get this bed fixed for the guest bedroom.  I could possibly use this as leverage to support my tool habit, to the tune of a new lathe.  Hey, we can always dream.

   Do you think my idea is feasible?  The leg is three laminations of cherry, squared and turned.  I'm thinking of a jig and router set up to take off most, if not all, of the layer that is broken and biscuit joining on a new fabricated piece.  This seems a bit simpler (without a lathe) than making a new bottom section.

   I'm attempting to add a picture, like I should have done from the get-go.

   Thanks,  Joe

   
1. 
   notDusty | Jun 17, 2004 11:59pm | #5

           Joe-no-seph ,

        A picture is worth a lot of words . My thought is the seam of the new piece will be near the steel pins, much pressure is at that juncture , from the weight of the bed rail and the new piece will be compromised when you cut the new slot in it .Maybe if you go 1/2" or so deeper than the pins for the seam that may work Routing off the old to form a repair sounds like a good idea. . All the weight is on the pins , little or none is on the wood.

                       good luck                  dusty

2. 
   mudman | Jun 18, 2004 06:49am | #6

   Joe,

   I just repaired the same failure last week! I shoulda took pics. I used a router table with a dado/mortising bit and stop blocks to flatten the broken spot, sort of like planing it flat. It took me a lot of time to set up the jigs.  Then I glued in a new piece of wood with grain that matched. It should hold for ever.

   Mikeplease excuse my spelling.

3. 
   Steinmetz | Jun 18, 2004 10:20am | #7

   Joe, A picture is worth a thousand words

   As soon as I saw the photo of the damage, I conjured up a fix for you .

   Mike has a similar fix too. I would rout away all the damage as deeply as to reach clean solid wood, then glue and clamp a full hardwood blank directly to the damaged area.

   If your hand held router 's base is not wide enough to span the width of the flat surface,(Without tipping) attach a wider base plate (Masonite or ply)to existing base by utilizing two of the screw holes on the base.

   Run the bit through the base to make it's new hole. Clamp the leg to workbench, stand two parallel wood  'Sisters" along the two sides to act as rails to support the wider router's bas

    Note:  They should stand 'Proud' of the finished surface.

   Now by advancing the cutter's depth in small increments, in a clockwise and circular direction, rout out the first layer. Increase penetration again and repeat in increments to final depth.

   If you want to shave the new added section, use the same routine, BUT! use wood a bit thicker so as to 'Skim' off to final finish.

   I've used this procedure hundreds of times even once leveling and flat facing a wide tree stump. for a glass top coffee table.  Stein

   Save that wider base plate you'll use it often.

   Edited 6/18/2004 3:25 am ET by steinmetz

1. 
   JoeParrish | Jun 19, 2004 12:18am | #8

   All, thanks.

   Stein, you suggest a glue/clamping a hardwood blank.  Do you think biscuit joining would strengthen the joint and do you think I might be better off glueing on a harder wood than cherry (or would the different wood characteristics cause problems down the road.

   Mike, I'll take a few before, during and after pics to post, as well as the results of stress testing the repair, once made.  Oh, the sacrifices we make for science.

   Thanks,  Joe