Replies

1. 
   Sphere | Dec 19, 2003 08:21pm | #1

   I can tell ya some things I 've done..don't know any instuctions/drawings. Tenon the end of the rails..bore post with 3/4 "  counterbore (a thin wall 9/16" socket fits in that, maybe have to grind it down a bit) then bore a 7/16 through hole in the post, marking the rail a bit. Remove rail and bore a 7/16 clearance hole for the bolt, deep enough for what ever lenght bolt ya need (depending on the post size) .on the inside of the rail intersect the bolt hole with a 1" bore to allow a wrench to grab the nut. If you flatten the hole (like a mouse hole in a cartoon) towards the post it will make a better job of it. I use 3/8" hex head bolts with washers..btw, you need SAE washers for a 3/8 I.D. and a 3/4 O.D...auto parts store.or drill out a 5/16 washer. don't forget to order or make a set of hole covers..I make em, store bought cost way too much. Thats it basic measuring, drilling. The tenons on the rails do not have to be really huge, just as a temp register place to get the parts assembled..I use a 6/4 rail and about a 16/4 post..g'luck

1. 
   TXJon | Dec 19, 2003 08:30pm | #2

   I have done the same thing, but with 3/8" dowels (for alignment only) instead of tenons.  Works great, although you do need to go back and re tighten the nuts after a few months.

   You can also buy $7 bedbolts that require a dedicated wrench, if you don't want to spend 50 cents on the bolt nut  washer assembly.

2. 
   BrianF | Dec 19, 2003 08:57pm | #3

   I never like the slip together fasteners. It seemed like the weak joint in the whole setup. I have looked at many different ways and modified them to come up with the way I do it. I have used it on about a dozen beds and it is rock solid and reliable. Once you build a jig to cut and drill it it is a breeze to make. I start with split tennons on the end of the rails and mortices in the posts. Then in the space between I drill a 3/8 hole for the draw bolt. Instead of going through the post and having to make a cover I used a brass threaded insert in the post. I rout a "T" shaped recess in the inside of the rail 5/8" deep, the long leg of the "T" points away from the post and allows for the bolt to inserted into the hole the recess intersects. It needs to be about the same length as the bolt. The cross at the top of the "T" allows you to use a open end wrench to tighten it up drawing the tennon into the mortice. The top of the "T" is about 3" across. I usually used wide rails (8"+)to hide most of the box spring in side. I made a quick sketch and scanned it and will try to attach it. Please forgive the quality of the sketch but I'm hurrying out the door to get my son to preschool. Any questions please ask. Brian

1. 
   BrianF | Dec 19, 2003 09:02pm | #4

   I think I wasn't patient enough for the file to upload before clicking done. Lets see if it works this time.

   
1. 
   woodshoplast | Dec 20, 2003 01:30am | #5

   Thanks very much to BrianF, TXJon and SPHERE. That's exactly the info I needed. Brian that sketch is helpful also. Well, I'm shutting down the shop until after Christmas. Probably enjoy working out there as much as enjoy Christmas. However, am looking forward to a few new tools from my Woodcraft wish list. Wish you all a merry Christmas. Thanks again, agriffee

1. 
   BrianF | Dec 20, 2003 05:44am | #6

   Wish I could shut down the shop. There are a few things left to do. Hopefully I can get enough done this weekend so that I can shut it down Wed and maybe take the dogs and kids out for a Christmas eve hunt for fresh pheasant dinner. Good luck with the project.

   Brian