Replies

1. 
   woodman2263 | Jan 10, 2007 04:33am | #1

   SFX,

   I just built a bed for my wife and the side rails are 12" x 72" x6/4.  To support the heavy rails, I bought rail fasteners from Woodcraft.  These are designed to be mortised into the post and rail and they wedge down.  Makes a very strong connection.  I don't think you will be disappointed.

   Good Luck!

   Jeff

2. 
   JeffHeath | Jan 10, 2007 04:42am | #2

   As Jeff stated, you can get bed rail hardware from LV, Woodcraft, Rockler, and several other hardware sources.  I've used the Rocker hardware before, and was very satisfied.

   Jeff

1. 
   SFX | Jan 10, 2007 06:08am | #4

   thanks for the advise, I'm making a pine bed frame for a twin bed, will the hardware hold in the pine?  my son is 2 but i'm often in the bed with him trying to get him to sleep, is pine going to be strong enough, do i need extra support, i was going to make rails about an 1 1/2 thick into 2 1/2 inch posts at the head and foot boards and then put a cleat on the inside for the box spring, is that strong enough?  i've never made a bed and i'm worried about not making it strong enough.

1. 
   [email protected] | Jan 10, 2007 07:38am | #5

   I made bunk beds fifteen years ago out of stud grade 2X4s bolted together with lag screws, and plywood to support the mattresses, that are still rigid.  Really primitive stuff, but I had an electric drill, a skill saw, and a less than fifty dollar budget.  College, what I didn't spend on the bed, was fun tickets, and they were really rare then.

   I would use bed bolts and dowels.  Pine tends to be soft, and they are probably the most resistant to pull out failure of any of the methods.  Lee Valley has kits of four bolts, and dowel nuts for about $20. 

   An absolutely can't fail method would be full length tension rods that go all the way from the head to the foot, (Lee Valley sells the nuts for these also.  They are intended for workbenches and such and are the strongest alternative.  They are in tension, and the wood in compression, so they can't tear out).  By the time you buy the four nuts, and the threaded rod you'll be around $50 to %60.  This is the strongest but I think it is overkill. 

2. 
   tinkerer2 | Jan 10, 2007 03:11pm | #6

   I think you need more than cleats for the spring mattress.  You should have something solid all the way across for the mattress like a bunky.  I cut a sheet of 3/4 inch plywood for my grandchildren.

3. 
   RippySkippy | Jan 10, 2007 04:14pm | #7

   I've used the these <http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10&cookietest=1> (6x5/8) on this plan <http://plansnow.com/bed.html>, it's in Woodsmith No. 108. I have been satisfied with their durability. When the hooks are mounted in the rail the screws are going into end grain. The rails I used were 5/4 thick. I added a 1/2 inch dowel set in from the bottom so the screws would penetrate the dowel. This provides additional bite for the screws.The cleat is a start, but not enough...either the 3/4 inch ply or several 1X4's screwed to the cleat. Depending on the size of the bed a large piece of 3/4 ply may be hard to negotiate up stairs and around corners.If your bed is like the ones I've built...not only will it support that angels at night...but the acrobats during the day, plan for the un-intended uses.Rip

1. 
   Glaucon | Jan 10, 2007 06:07pm | #8

   This is a timely discussion for me. I am designing and preparing to build a queen sized bed out of maple. I was planning to attach the side rails to the head board with hardware, but I was going to use joinery for the rails/foot board, which will be more visible. Specifically, I was thinking of using a tusk tenon. This would permit the bed to be disassembled. The mortise would be through and though on the foot board, and the tenon would be fashioned from the side rail. I was hoping that the tusk would wedge and provide enough stability and rigidity. Is this likely?A second matter is that I think the tenon will have to be fairly large to bear the weight. Perhaps 1" thick by 2-3" wide by 3-4" high. Tenons of this size will have some issues with wood movement. Since the tenon will not be glued but tusked, will this avoid issues of movement/splitting with changes in temperature and humdity?Thanks,Glaucon

   If you don't think too good, then don't think too much...

3. 
   [email protected] | Jan 10, 2007 05:35am | #3

   Traditionally bed bolts and dowels were used.  The modern dedicated fasteners are all quite strong, and will work.  They have the added advantage that you don't have an exposed hole you have to deal with.  Another option I am considering is the "tension rod nuts", that Lee Valley sells, But I am sure they would be overkill structurally.

4. 
   cheerycherry | Jan 10, 2007 07:57pm | #9

   Several years ago i made a king sized bed out of cherry and used bed bolts as described by others with mortise and tenon joints. We have moved three times since and it has held up just great. No problems with dismantling and reassembly. The bed bolts create a nice tight stable joint with the mortise and tenon joints. No squeeking or movement or loosening with time. On the foot board end i purchased some old fashioned covers for the hole that shows on the end, these just tack on. You can bury the bolt in the  side rail so that does not show. I was and am a novice and it was a fun project and good learning experience.  

    

   Marc

5. 
   Truejoint | Jan 11, 2007 03:09am | #10

   I'm designing my third bed right now.  The last kid will be out of the crib in about 1 year.  I don't like the hook type bed rail connectors.  Too much work and not firm enough.  I would bet they won't make it to your kid's kids if that's a concern.  I use the Lee Valley bed bolts and fancy cover.  I use a 1-1/8" thick bed rail or 1-1/4" if you can.  I construct a 3-1/2" wide tenon, 3/4" thick on each end of the rails and a mortise in the bed posts to match.  Then drill a hole (3/8" I think) through the bed post and a matching hole into the end of the tenon for the bolt.  Then you have to drill into the inside of the rail to where the end of the bolt sits so you can thread a cross-dowell nut onto the bolt and cinch the hole thing together.  If you look in a back issue of fine woodworking (about a year or two ago), you'll find a really cool gadget you can construct that allows you to determine exactly where to drill the hole for the cross dowel bolt thingy that slips into the rail.  You'll need to buy a good forstner bit to drill the hole for the cross-dowell (make it extra big) and make sure you don't drill through the show side of the rail.  Use a small chisel to finish the hole off (or use the 1-1/4" thick rail).  Also, you'll have to drill a wide hole to accept the bolt head into the bed post.  You want the bolt to go about 2-1/2" into the rail before reaching the nut.  Totally solid.  Even with pine.

1. 
   SFX | Jan 11, 2007 07:23am | #11

   great advise, i'll look into all the suggestions and see what i can come up with, any other ideas are welcome, what a great resource this is, i've joined fairly recently and have come away with lots of answers to my queries.