I am a beginner woodworker having recently completed a couple of courses, so am ready to convert part of my garage in to a woodshop.
So I wanted a professional opinion on what to do with this workbench in my garage.
I was thinking of simply leaving this here but adding a new workstop to it, getting it cut at the woodstore. Then add a face vice to the end, probably on the right length.
That angle on the left concerns me though, I lose some valuable workbench space due to it. Should I cut a new top rectangular and ignore shaping to match the current to?
Should I even rip the whole thing down and start from scratch? There is nothing preventing me keeping it intact other than cost and getting my workbench ready quicker. I don’t have many of the tools I need at the moment to create it from scratch, hence was thinking of the quicker option (replace the current top)
Thank you.
Replies
Unfortunately I see little value in keeping that bench. A good workbench should do a minimum of two things; provide many different options to securely hold workpieces and provide a flat solid surface to reference from. That bench can do neither. The top is too worn to be a reference surface and too thin to hold bench dogs or hold fasts or other clamping aids
I personally don't like benches against a wall, I find it too limiting in what I can do at my bench I prefer a bench as an island. There are plans on FW for beginner benches that could be built without much more of an investment in time or money as trying to make something out of that bench. I suggest you search the archives for ideas for your bench and have posted a couple of links to get you started.
https://www.finewoodworking.com/2009/09/16/still-dont-have-a-workbench-this-one-is-easy
https://www.finewoodworking.com/2013/03/13/a-basic-bench-thats-quick-to-make
Hi Esch,
Thanks for the tips. I never thought about limitations due to the bench being against the wall, but that's good advice. To clarify, I was planning to add a new worktop to the current one as I know it is very worn and not flat at all. But I understand what you say about it still may not being able to hold clamps.
I'll have to think about what to do here, space is an issue to make the workbench as an island, but I might be able to make it work.
Ash
Start from scratch for all the reasons Esch mentioned. Make the base bombproof and add a 2 or 3 layer mdf top. Live with it for a year or two while you think about what your final top should be/do. You can move the vices, cut it & drill holes with impunity. Build the final top when you think you know what you want.
Use the current bench as storage, assembly, general use. Make a good bench be your first major project. Put retractable wheels on it so you can move it when you need to. Just make sure it's nearly immovable when in use.
Cheers John, this is a good idea. Am going to undoubtedly need storage, already has this below that I can rework if I need to.
To echo above, a workbench (assuming you intend to use it for working wood with hand tools) needs to do two things: 1. hold wood so it can be worked its edge, on its face, and on its end and 2. be robust enough to not move under vigorous planing.
Building a forever bench can be time intensive and expensive, so this old bench you have could certainly be a stop-gap. Throw a cheap vice on it and get to work.
Yes I like the idea of making the bench a stop gap, goes with my thinking that since this is not going to be our forever home, am going to use the garage as a temporary workshop till I get a place where I can design the workshop to my spec when I have more space, currently don't have much.
I can then make mistakes till my hearts content. And yes, will be mostly using hand tools.
If you want a stop-gap bench, get a solid core door from a salvage center, build some sturdy legs, mount a vise or two and get to work. Get an older door, that is, one that has a real wood core. You can cut it down to make it the right size. That gives you the island bench in pretty short order and a flat reference surface. Work on that for a while and figure out what your forever bench will look like.
A solid core door as Jfsksa mentions is a great instant workbench top. I buy them new from the big box stores and they weigh close to 80lbs. In a weekend you add a 2x4 base and casters.
The workbench in the photo is from Woodsmith No. 66
I agree with the stop-gap approach. Put a new top on the current bench and begin your wood working adventure. Read Chris Schwarz's books on benches. Look at benches in the archives here.
When it's time to build your new bench you will know. You won't have to wonder, "is it the right time?" You will also know the answers to the many questions you will have because you will be farther along in your wood working journey.
There is only one bench that is right for you, the bench that works for you and the tools you decide to use.
I built my first workbench when I was at the same stage you are at now. I ended up giving it away so I could build my current bench that fits my needs much better.
A stand-alone workbench with proper heft and rigidity can be sited in the center of a room or pushed tight to a wall. If it is designed to be disassembled into moveable pieces it is more likely to come with you as your skills improve and your shop expands.
The bench you have could be used as-is for some jobs and even improved slightly, but it lacks so much that a proper woodworker might want that it will guarantee endless frustration.
Afraid due to space in my garage, the bench will never be in the centre but more often than not will be against the wall.
Intrigued to understand what it lacks that a proper woodworker might need? Coming from a place of ignorance rather than being condescending - I'm a beginner after all!
A good workbench for hand tools needs to be stout, that is, not move when using a hand plane, plus not vibrate when hammering chisels.
It is possible to bolt a lighter bench to a wall to avoid movement. This can work well.
I am an amateur building furniture seriously for 30 years. I have had pieces in FWW magazine as well as won a number of furniture competitions (including one for Popular Woodworking magazine). My work bench is a serious bench. 3 1/2" thick European Oak top and hefty Jarrah base. It weighs a LOT! :)
This is not my first bench, but I rather doubt that I will build another (although I have just added a MFT). Built in two parts, the first in 2012, and the underbench cabinet last year. There is a complete write up of the construction here. Scan down the Index page to "Roubo Bench" ...
http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/index.html
Regards from Perth
Derek
http://www.inthewoodshop.com/index.html
Derek I've seen enough of your work to know you are an amateur in name only, you put most pros to shame; of course I guess there is something to said for being able to to do something for love of the craft and not needing to worry about the bottom line.
Thanks for your kind words.
I was trying to emphasise that the bench is important. It does not have to be pretty, but it needs to be solid. It does not even need a vise, but it does need to hold work. There are many ways to do this. One is not going to do decent work on a rickity bench, and it will not be a fun activity, which is important since we are not doing this for money.
It was over 20 years before I built a "pretty" work bench. Before then I managed with a hollow core door on saw horses, a Workmate, and a lightweight bench which was bolted to the wall (that worked very well). I know which I prefer to use :)
I have just completed an auxiliary bench, a MFT, but this is for power tool and assembly use, not for working with hand tools. Photos below.
Regards from Perth
Derek
Only new info I can add to the other good advice has to do with working against a wall. In my garage, since I park the cars in at night (homeless issues and catalytic converter theft issues where I live), I have to work against the wall. Every now and then I wish I had easy access to the other side. Only on two occasions have I bothered to move the bench outwards in the past seven years. While working against the wall isn't ideal, I suspect many of us do. 99% of the time it really isn't an issue.
Good tip Joel thanks.
Since this isnt going to be my forever home, and Im just starting out, gonna see how I get on with the workbench against the wall. Both in my coffee table and windsor stool course that I did, I didn't really need to put anything right across the bench and work on the other side, so I think I'll be ok.
It's funny. I have two benches at home and neither has access to the other side. I don't think I've ever wished I did. But at work, we can access benches from all sides and I'm certain I take advantage of it. For me, it's nice to have but the room layout would easily take precedent.
I think it may depend on the type of work you primary plan on doing. A bench against the wall probably has little impact if you primarily build smaller projects, small boxes, cutting boards smaller pieces of furniture. If you focus on larger pieces, beds, full sized chests and casework I think you will find the wall to be a limiting element. I know I would never go back to a wall mounted bench except for specific tasks such as a sharpening bench.
Where I have found the limitation to really be is the depth of the bench. My bench is 24" deep and when up against the wall, it becomes difficult if you work with something that has two dimensions greater than 24". I've built some decent size projects on it (images below). The things you mentioned are even bigger. Where it gets difficult is for cutting 4x8 sheets of plywood (mostly for the backs of things or drawer bottoms) but I've done it. If I am cutting down big boards, I will sometimes just use a folding table. I will build traditional saw benches/horses later this year assuming wood finishes drying.
The project that is currently challenging me is a big subwoofer box for my nephew's Chevy Suburban (which he in fact bought for this subwoofer box. I'm dovetailing it and transferring tail locations from the pins was just too difficult, so I pulled the bench away from the wall.
But like many things, you work with what you have even if it isn't ideal and dream of a future day. I would love to have a 1,000 square foot shop or bigger with a huge wall of windows letting in natural light and full around the bench access. Not yet. Maybe someday.
Nice setup Joe, do you pay your holdfast an hourly rate?
Unless you are a professional basketballer, or have arms the length of a gorilla, I would limit the width of a bench (one against a wall) to around 20-21”. Mine is the latter - 24” would be too wide for me to reach across.
Regards from Perth
Derek
mj, thanks. she is usually patient for a few cuts and then wants to do other things. That's fine. I very much enjoy her when she wants to be in the shop.
esch5995, I completely agree with you regarding the width of the bench. Mine is 24" and I have pegboard where my tools hang. When I was working on the subwoofer box, I had the bench pulled out either 6" or 12" from the wall. It was amazing at how much of a diference it made in reaching the tools. As for me, I'd stop at 24" wide and could be talked into less wide of a bench. If I am doing something that involves a lot of wood and need more room, I open a card table and put the extra wood on that.
I worked on a bench against a wall for a fairly long time until I built a stand alone bench. I slapped down some 3/4” plywood (not Baltic birch), installed a 7” vise from Harbor Freight and went to work. I was able to do a lot of different things on that bench. Because it was inexpensive plywood I could screw blocks to hold work pieces into the top, not worry about drilling through a piece, or leaving chisel marks, etc. When the bench top was chewed up too much, off with the old and screw in the new.
While using the new bench most often, I still used the old bench to keep my sandpaper on glass sharpening kit always available, and plenty of space to set up jigs (like a router mortising jig) and “chew it up tasks”, small drill press, etc., and keep my other bench free for hand work.
Can you split the difference? That is, keep part of the existing bench, cut off the angled end, and make a new smaller workbench with a clean level top. If I had that old bench in my garage (space permitting), I know it would get a lot of homeowner use for non-woodworking tasks - fixing the mower, mixing paint, etc. I get by with a small Sjoberg 22x52 workbench for woodworking and use other tables as needed for assembly, glue up, finishing, etc.
My 30" wide bench is set up off the wall by about 4 inches, enough to store clamps behind it and giving me the back edge clamping option. 30" gives me room to work and space to keep parts or tools on the back of the bench. I think I'd go nuts with just 20-24".
And, just for laughs, on the opposite end of the spectrum I was a designer in the exhibit and display industry. Our building, including the woodshop, metal shop, paint booths, graphic production, staging areas, and storage totaled 740,000 square feet. All of the builders had 5'x10' work benches. When I built my first bench it was 4'x8', I didn't know any better. My current basement shop space is about 650 square feet. I still have that enormous, freestanding bench in there and it works fine for me, but it ain't pretty.
I built my bench 40 years ago from 3, 4 X 12 maple slabs, two went for the top and the third cut-up for the legs. It has been along walls, in the center, even in a fair. It’s probably the piece of equipment that gets used on every project, along with the dust collector. It’s main qualities are weight, rigidity and clamping capacity. The Record 15 inch vise gets used a lot. As you buy more, larger power tools the bench will still be essential to do glue-up’s, assembly,sanding, finishing and any hand tool work. I consider it the main tool/equipment in my shop .