Replies

1. 
   PrunusSerotina | Jul 08, 2009 02:42am | #1

   I have two holdfast holes in my bench. One at the far end, and one at the proper distance away from the tail vise. The holes are located so that the end of the hold can just almost reach the edge of the bench, which is where I do most of my chisel and joinery work.

2. 
   jonnieboy | Jul 08, 2009 08:17am | #2

   Hi fxston,

   Great! I see you posted a new thread on this subject.

   I have some clamps bought, but not yet installed on my bench, because no holes yet.

   Did you say you were eyeing the Gramercy hold downs?

   I purchased and have been using the Veritas hold-down on a couple other tables around the shop until I finish the bench, and I'm starting to get a feel from that where the hole placements should be on the bench. 

   I think the Veritas hold-down and the tap-in hold downs are roughly the same size? I'm hoping I can use them interchangeably from the same holes.

   All that said, and with full disclosure that I haven't done any of this yet, my plan was to drill two rows of 3/4" holes extending out from each vise at every six inches. Then drill two holes in the moveable face of each vise block.

   Then I added this idea; intersperse the two rows of holes with a single hole, also at every six inches. So it would go -- 2 holes, 3 inches, 1 hole, 3 inches, 2 holes, 3 inches, and so on.

   I'm unsure if all these holes are pure overkill or not. It's a lot. And now I'm glad you postd this so an expert might step in and let drop what is considered 'normal' spacing.

   --jonnieboy

    

    

   -jonnieboy

1. 
   fxston | Jul 09, 2009 05:20am | #3

   Thanks for your input! I purchased two hold fasts from TWW because they were recommeded in a woodworking magazine. I will look for the article. Another issue is the need for a small angle on the hole that is drilled for hold fast. I believe the angle places more friction or binding when knocking the hold fast in against the work piece.

1. 
   jonnieboy | Jul 09, 2009 06:23am | #4

   fxston,

   I hear very good things about the metallurgical differences in those Gramercy hold-downs.

   As far as ovalling out the dog-holes from repeated use, it seems like it would be a problem, but I've seen at least one post by an editor (on FWW?) that says it's not.

   Wait, wait. I see now. You mean they may hold better if they're in an angled hole. Never, ever heard of that.

   I'm learning vicariously through you on this, so let me know.

   --jonnieboy

1. 
   fxston | Jul 10, 2009 06:14am | #5

   I was reading "The Workbench Book" , by Scott Landis, one design had holes angled at 88 degrees. If I recall correctly another article indicated that filing small grooves horizonally help holdfasts bind in the 3/4 inch hole with tension on them. I have another small bench top that I will drill several holes and test the angle of 88 degrees and grooves. But my logic tells me the angle must be an optimum direction in relation to the piece being held. I am learning slow but sure. Thanks!

1. 
   jonnieboy | Jul 10, 2009 07:21am | #6

   fxston,

   Hey, I have copy of that book on its way to me in the mail. I'll check out these curiously angled dogholes.

   Keep me updated, if you would.

   -jonnieboy

2. 
   joelm | Jul 10, 2009 11:49am | #7

   THe traditional way is drilling the holes square and leaving the shaft of the holdfast smooth so as not to tear up the holes with time. just run a little coarse sandpaper around the shafts (not up and down) to remove grease and create scratches - works like charm.Joel
   http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com

   Edited 7/10/2009 8:43 am ET by joelm

3. 
   fxston | Jul 10, 2009 03:38pm | #8

   Thank you! Your method makes more sense for sure. I believe I got twisted around the axle or holdfast. Rex

4. 
   boilerbay | Jul 10, 2009 04:54pm | #9

   Joel,

   I agree, I've been using a couple of your G fasts for a while and although I did smooth the edges of the pad, they need very little care.
   I would say to the OP:Don't add lines, the work very well with a smooth shaft. Angled holes?:
   Anything but a 90 vertical shaft would prohibit them rotating around the bench for different pieces. As far as seating them, a wack or to on top and to release, a wack or to from the side. I have a series of parallel holes running the length of the one bench, far enough apart so that one holdfast will come close to another when smaller pieces are needed to be held, the hold comes from two point contact. All the holes a just outside the radius of the opposing hole. I can DT across or work on long planks along an edge or in the center. (this old bench doesn't yet have a tail vise)
   If you need another hole, put it in, It's just a workbench.PS. If I'm at the point of doing DTs I would use a secondary wood pad in between as I've all ready done too much work on that piece getting it ready for DTs to risk impact marks from a hold down - no matter how good they are!Boiler