Replies

1. 
   BG | Nov 07, 2002 09:39pm | #1

   Rick,

   I'm new to planning also so I'll be interested in others opinions.  However, faced with a similar problem recently I worked the # 5 Stanley (jack) on the diagonal using short strokes until fairly level with the mouth a little open.  You need to be able to get your weight over the plane, hope you have a good bench for holding the stock.  If the grain is going in the same direction it'll be much easier. Make sure yor blade is well honed...

   good luck..

1. 
   WilliamHF | Nov 07, 2002 11:52pm | #3

   Another potential solution:

   Find a guy who runs his own cabinet shop, or, milling operation. Find one who has a thickness sander whose belt is wide enough to accomodate the piece you need flattened on one surface.

   He'll protect the surface you've already straightened up and flatten the other surface in 4 minutes.

   Cost? A few dollars.

   FWIW

   William

   I

   I make something, sometimes twice, each year.

2. 
   Alan | Nov 07, 2002 11:34pm | #2

   Rick,

   You say you have a plane, but you don't say what kind.  There is a dizzying variety of plane types, and each one is made to do a different job.

   Warning: an over-generality follows.  Of course most planes can do more than just one job, but most planes do one task better than other tasks; and that plane type will do that task better than can other planes.

   Depending on how "multi-level" is your top, to flatten it quickly and easily might mean using two or three different plane types--or fewer planes that are re-set to do another step.  But if you don't really care how it looks, if you're interested only in getting a good union between the top and the cabinet you might be able to do the whole job with one plane--or even with only a belt sander.

   So before giving out advice that might be completely useless, I'd like to know how good a job you want, how smooth and flat you want it.  Also, what kind is your one plane?  Do you have others, or can you perhaps borrow others?  (Of course it's highly likely that even if I know these things my advice may still be useless.)

   Alan

3. 
   JMcIntee | Nov 08, 2002 05:36am | #4

   I'd go with the guy that has a thickness sander.

   But if you really, really want to plane, then a scrub plane first if you have one, if not a jack plane will work, try to plane with the grain. Unlikely that all the boards are running the same way so  you will have to take shallow cuts and SKEW  the plane as you push. It will go a lot easier.

   Jim

4. 
   elbert | Nov 08, 2002 07:08am | #5

   Unless you have a serious size plane, No. 5 or larger you will have a challange working the top flat given the size.  Doing it strictly with planes you would ideally start with a scrub plane to get it reasonable level, then a No. 6 or 7, then go to a No. 5, and finish up with a No. 4.  The first passes should be diagonal to the grain.  I go clear accross the piece with that, working first one 45, then rotate 90 degrees.  This takes a lot of wood down fast.  As you get closer to your finished thickness, start going with the grain to the final finish.  All of this is done with very sharp planes or you will tear up the piece something terrible.  I also might at this all takes time, but if you like working with a plane it is rewarding.

   If not familiar with planning I would do a lot of practice on scaps befor approaching the cabinet piece.

   Having said all above, I agree with the recommendation to take it to a cabinet shop for a quick and near perfect job with a wide belt sander.  I have a large collection of planes, and use them a lot.  However, when faced with very large pieces that are pretty rough I have resorted to the local cabinet shop on a couple of occaisions.

   Good luck.

5. 
   SgianDubh | Nov 08, 2002 08:25am | #6

   Every single one of the respondents so far has ignored or missed the truly interesting point of the question, which was this, and I quote, "The bottom is multi level. It will take a lot of scraping and sanding to get it flat enough to glue to the top of the cabinet." You all just ran off with the plane thing, and I guess didn't notice anything odd.

   How flat does the underside of a top need to be so that it can be glued to the top of a cabinet?

   Now, get out your thinking caps, and think of some good answers. Slainte.

   Some stuff I've made.
1. 
   BG | Nov 08, 2002 01:26pm | #7

   Since I responded first initially, let me be the one to admit to the lack of observation with regard to the gluing issue and wood movement. 

   If he is planning to attach this to a stand alone cabinet, where the top can expand then perhaps he should use screws and enlarge the holes in the cabinet?  If, on the other hand, the maple 36x24 top will fit into a fixed counter top attached to a cabinet base underneath, I don't know what to do...the variable seam would be a collection area for crud.. 

1. 
   SgianDubh | Nov 09, 2002 03:32am | #8

   Good thinking BG. The information on flattenning planing supplied by  respondents was useful, helpful, and interesting, but the gluing down thing was what really caught my eye. I'm guessing that this solid top is not an integral part of this cabinets structure, but planted on.

   If I assume the top has grain running left to right, and the sides and bottom are solid timber with the grain running vertically down the sides, and left to right again at the bottom, the top can be fixed with no allowance made for expansion and contraction-- it will all expand and contract at about the same rate. Usually in a structure like this the top of the two sides is joined by a rail front and back, and maybe a middle rail or two. Just bore and countersink holes, and screw the top in place.

   If the sides and base (and even the structural top under the solid wood top) are a veneered man made board like plywood, bore holes as described before at the back, but at the front, make them into slots facing perpendicular to the front edge so that the top can move as each season progresses.

   Getting the underside flat can be achieved by any of the methods described, but it doesn't need to be perfect all over. Just the exposed parts near the most visible edges really need a bit extra work. Slainte.

   Some stuff I've made.

1. 
   garth | Nov 09, 2002 06:21am | #9

   The best advice I have seen this week, thanks for bring everone back to earth.

   Garth