Replies

1. 
   RSRose | Aug 15, 2002 12:03am | #1

   WWB1956,

   I like to varnish my workbenchs. Most others recommend just applying oil - Linseed or Tung, which is certainly the easiest to "renew."

   Why not try oiling your bench. If the protection is not enough, then you can varnish, or use an oil-varnish combination. Because Ash is more of an open grained, wood than Beech, Maple or other fine-pore woods frequently used for benchtops, you may end up using varnish to give some pore-filling protection. But I wouldn't use any filler (silex) on it.

   Rich

2. 
   dhpascoe | Aug 15, 2002 12:33am | #2

   I think you need to decide whether you want a slippery top or not. I varnished my latest and boy do I hate it. As far as I'm concerned, that was a big-time error because it is now so slippery I can't even clamp anything to it. Everything slips and slides off. When I get time, I'm going to scrape it off and leave it bare as I think it should be. Yes, it will get dirty and ugly looking, but that will be better than the disaster I have now. And varnish doesn't help a bit with all those glue drips. Still sticks.

   Dave of Fla.

1. 
   RSRose | Aug 15, 2002 01:43am | #3

   Dave,

   "can't clamp . . . everything slips and slides"

   Better stop treating that varnished top with Armor All!

   Wow, just take the surface down with 4-0 steel wool. Should be just fine.

   Rich

3. 
   marktrav | Aug 15, 2002 04:43pm | #4

   I used Waterlox, which is a Tung-Oil/Varnish mix on my table, and it turned out very nicely. It took about 3 coats before it started to build any type of film, since it soaked into the wood. I think these first three coats were the most important, because it gives a good durable finish to the surfaces. It also has a golden tint, which I believe you are looking for.

   I used Mahogany and Walnut in a few sections, and I built up the finish by applying additional coats after the third, followed by a cabinet scraper to take it back down to bare wood. You could also use 220-grit wet/dry sandpaper, but the scraper is less messy and you won't go through a pack of sandpaper this way. This filled the pores and leveled the finish acceptably. I could tell when I had it level when there were no "shiny" pores left after the latest scraping. Then I applied one final coat of Waterlox. I then finished with a coat of furniture wax over the top and sides.

   I haven't tried to clamp anything to it, but last night I was parring out some dovetail pins on a 15"x24" sheet of plywood that I laid across the table. It didn't move much at all, so I don't think it's very slippery. It feels smooth, but definitely not slippery.

   I'm sure it will get abused over the years and I'll eventually end up with a bare wood finish after a couple of reconditions or re-levelings, but I wanted to go all the way on this first go around since it looks so good. (A non-woodworking friend of mine came over and couldn't believe I was going to use it in the shop and not as a table somewhere in the house. :+) ) Plus, even if I do take the finish down in the future, the finish that soaked deep into the wood will still be in the wood (to a certain point, of course) to provide protection from moisture and hopefully keep wood movement to a minimum.

   Mark

1. 
   BILLB | Aug 15, 2002 07:21pm | #5

   Thanks Mark!

   It sounds like the Waterlox is what I'm looking for. I'm not familiar with it, but I'll assume its available from sources such as Garrett Wade, Highland Hardware etc.

   One more thing...is it a brushable or wipeable finish? I'm not equipped to do spraying.

   Thanks again

   wwb1956

1. 
   marktrav | Aug 15, 2002 07:59pm | #6

   I brushed it on using a good quality 2" brush. You can also wipe it on. I think it's generally known as a "wiping varnish". I've never tried to wipe it on, but I will eventually try it. It was mostly a personal decision of not wanting to create a mess with the rags.

   Mark

2. 
   RSRose | Aug 15, 2002 08:18pm | #7

   WWB,

   IMHO Waterlox is one of the most over-hyped finishes around. It's an overly-expensive oil/varnish. For those who want to believe that their showpiece dining room table looks better with a Waterlox finish than with a bargain brand oil-varnish, so be it, but I think that it's an "Emperor's New Clothes" kind of thing. But for finishing a workbench with oil-varnish, just get whatever is available to you. Wipe it on, keep it wet for a while, wipe it off. Repeat if you want, let it cure for a day and start using that bench.

   Have fun,

   Rich

3. 
   BG | Aug 16, 2002 04:31am | #8

   Waterlux, I rub in with hands till it starts to get a little tacky.....wear a mask with charcoal filter

2. 
   suzy | Dec 25, 2002 10:49pm | #13

   i am finishing  a mahogany and cypress bench, and someone mentioned waterlox.  i looked it up on their website, and there seems to be more than one product.  which would you recommend.  thanks!!!

1. 
   BG | Dec 25, 2002 11:01pm | #14

   I've only used the 'Traditional' Waterlox and it appears to work fine.

2. 
   marktrav | Dec 26, 2002 12:23am | #15

   I used the Original High Gloss on mine. It's holding up very well.

   Mark

1. 
   suzy | Dec 26, 2002 12:48am | #16

   thanks to you both.  maybe i should give a few details.  my project is a mahogany/cypress bench-for my living room, not a work bench.  do you have an opinion about which finish i should use--a waterlox-or maybe a gel stain???

   thanks

1. 
   marktrav | Dec 26, 2002 01:15am | #17

   I'm a newbie at this as well, but I thought it turned out very well. I've not used a gel stain, so I'm unfamiliar.

   I would recommend a pore filler for the mahagony before you apply any finish if you are looking for a smooth, high gloss finish.

   Mark

2. 
   suzy | Dec 26, 2002 01:33am | #18

   i am kinda new at this also. don't know what a pore filler is. 

   i have sanded this piece up to 400 grit, raised the grain and then sanded it again.  it is smooth as glass right now.  what will a pore filler do?  i am not opposed to using it--just never heard of it before, thanks

3. 
   TomsLC | Dec 26, 2002 07:12pm | #19

   The grain of the wood is actually millions of elongated cells that are like hollow tubes. If you apply a finish directly, it wicks down into these tubes, and can require many, many coats to eventually fill up all the tubes and get to a point where you can begin thinking about a smooth high gloss finish. A pore filler does exactly what it says...it fills up the pores so you can apply fewer coats of finish.

   Your decision to use it or not depends partly on the species of wood. Mahogany and red oak have very large pores. So filler is a must for them. Other species...Do some experimenting on scraps to see what you like.

4. 
   suzy | Dec 26, 2002 09:01pm | #20

   thanks.  but,,, what is a pore filler.  is htere a product called pore filler?  is there any brand that you would recommend ove r others? thanks again

4. 
   dhpascoe | Aug 16, 2002 04:57pm | #9

   I'm with you, Dave. My nicely varnished top now looks like s***t. You try to make the top look too nice, and then all the damage you do to it makes it look disfigured, whereas you don't expect an unfinished top to look perfect. You wouldn't varinish a cutting board, so why do a work bench? So you can get all those glue blobs off? But then you shouldn't be doing glue ups on your bench anyway. I remember none of the benches in my HS woodshop (and there were a lot of them) had any finish on them. Mr. Schooley, the wood shop teacher would fail your project if he caught you with a glue bottle on the bench. You had to take it over to the glue-up table . . . or else!

   I have hinged, fold-down mica/plywood table for that which is ideal.

1. 
   Biscardi | Aug 16, 2002 08:39pm | #10

   Really, you know any seriously fine woodworker's bench should be made of paduk or cocobolla, inlaid with satin wood ( or tulip wood) and then french polished. Oralu is OK if you are into the Louis the something or other look . Marquetry is also acceptable so long as it doesn't interfere with the bench being 100% flat. Also you should probably have acanthus leaves or at least a clam shell or two on it just so that everyone knows you arent a disciple of Norm.

   Frank

1. 
   RSRose | Aug 16, 2002 11:45pm | #11

   And don't you dare use any tools on it that are not: 1. Chrome plated, 2. highly polished nickel, or 3. at least a combination of polished brass and Brazilian Rosewood.

   Rich

1. 
   marktrav | Aug 17, 2002 12:57am | #12

   Hey! I resemble that remark! <grin>

   Maybe I can get the Greene and Greene style influenced cloud lift and silver inlay into the tail vise this weekend. <BG>

   Mark