I know most of you will suggest not to go with the benchtop jointer. I just bought the PC160JT — same as the Delta JT160. I read a lot before purchasing, and yes, the fence is fine on my unit! My issue is alignment. My only option is to use shims.
Each table is held in place by 4 screws. So to level and align the tables I need washer-shaped shims. So I go online for shims. WashersUSA wants $140 for a “minimum order”. … … NOT! My solution is off to Harbor Freight for automotive thickness gauges for $4. Trouble is these are flat tempered steel leaves in the gauges. How do I (nicely) get them around the screw? I thought of buying two gauges, then drilling or filing or grinding 1/2-a-hole in each gauge. Not sure of the best way to do this.
Thoughts anyone?
PS: I have an EXTREMELY small space for my temporary Satellite-Workshop: just 11’4″ x 5’2″. Heard about the newer combo jointer/planers — read a lot then decided against them.
Replies
I'd suggest getting shim washers instead, so you have multiples of the same thickness. Onlinemetals.com, for example, sells arbor shims that are .001" thick, .375 ID, .625" OD in 10-packs for $4.90.
Thanks for the Help!
Found the shims on that site. Looks like what I need. Thanks so much!
Thom
Beer Can Shim Stock
Use a beer can. Cut out a large square from the side of the can, sandwich it between two scrap boards, drill some holes through the stack and then cut out square shim washers around each hole.
DUH! Why didn't I think of that?
John:
As usual, you have given an excellent answer! When I get this inexpensive jointer really humming, I'll reply back. There have been many negatives espoused regarding the JT160 and its Porter Cable equivalent, the PC160JT -- which I have. The only limitation or difficulty I can see at this point is shimming the table -- which you have just solved!
Actually, I think shimming these tables might be easier that shimming weighs is a "normal" jointer. With the JT160, each table is held in place with 4 bolts -- so shimming effects shouid be 1:1 with feeler gauge measurements under a suspended straightedge.
John: You mentioned in your overview of the JT160 that a fixed outfeed table was the biggest limitation you saw with the unit. Can you shed some light on this? My plan was to leave the outfeed table completely alone -- no shims there. Then align the knives to the outfeed table as always. Then shim the infeed table until both are coplaner. Have I missed something?
You Haven't Missed Anything
The problem with a fixed outfeed table is that you can't tweek it up or down a few thousandths of an inch to fine tune the cut for straightness. While in theory the knives are supposed to be exactly in line with the outfeed table for the best cut, many times a minor adjustment after installing new knives, or when the knives have dulled a bit, will be needed to get a perfectly straight edge on the stock.
So then I just get out the dial Indicator and the allen wrench
...instead of being able to tweak the outfeed?
Adjusting the outfeed? For me, every time I adjust my adjustable outfeed table (Unless I'm in Jointer Alignment Mode) just seems to mess everything up. That's probably me doing it as a opposed to you doing it though. (Practice!!!) I think I'd attempt some honing on the blades when they got dull (I've designed a fixture), then re-align them with the dial indicator. The blades are supposedly disposable. Makes me glad the little benchtop jointer has 2 blades as opposed to three!
Thanks John. I'm making the beercan shims this weekend, but I'm using soda cans -- gives me an instant excuse if they don't work, lol.
Beer can shims
How did thi s work for you? I have the same jointer and have encountered the same problem. No matter how I have shimmed the infeed table, I still end up with a bad cut. I'm getting pretty disgusted with the jointer. I was wondering if the beer can/soda can shims cleared it up.
JT160 Shims & Alignment for tapering
Long Story! I had the jointer aligned perfectly. I spent a lot of time making shims I thought I'd need. Present day -- the jointer has been in storage for awhile (long story omitted). I'm now in a new shop location and I've just this week began using it again. The best way to eliminate a tapering cut on this jointer, on the long axis, is to ajust the cutter height as the JT160 has no outfeed table height adjustment. If your jointer is tapering your boards, then the cutters are too low with respect to the outfeed table. After you adjust the cutters, you need to also now watch for snipe. If you get snipe, then your cutters are too high. In the middle will be no snipe and no tapering -- jointer nirvana. If you have outfeed adjustment, then you simply adjust the outfeed table to just where snipe goes away -- and remember to use the same feed pressure all the time. Of course, all this assumes your tables are both coplaner and flat.
my dad help me with mine we use folded aluminfoil to put around the screws on the outfeed table it took a while but we got working right
How to align Benchtop Jointer
You can visit https://www.finewoodworking.com/2014/02/03/how-to-set-up-a-jointer for aliging Benchtop Jointer. There is video for explaining for. You will better understand by watching that video.
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