All
I have a couple of questions surrounding router tables:
1. How ‘flat is flat’? What level of flatness is expected on a router table / insert plate over time with a 3HP router hanging from the plate? Or as opposed to a tolerance, would anyone recommend another method to judge the table flatness?
2. How much clearance will I need under each side of the table top to the outside of the cabinet walls?
3. Are flat sides required on the edge of the table top for jigs/fixtures etc and if so, how much of a flat is needed?
4. Are t-slots needed in the miter gage slot and if so, what size? Same for the fence?
5. Assuming I am building a fully enclosed benchtop router table, would anyone have reservations about using some 16 gage metal panels for 2 or 3 of the sides? I anticipate a sturdy table top and base (made from double sided laminated MDF) that will have structural integrity but am I missing anything?
6. I am looking to include storage for bits, wrenches, donuts, etc inside the cabinet using drawers that are separated from the router motor. At what point should I make a workstation (ie, 3 -3-1/2 foot tall) versus a benchtop (16″)? What should the maximum weight of a benchtop without motor be – just something that I can pick up?
7. Is it expecting too much to have a 3HP router in a benchtop table? What is the maximum size diameter bit it should accept?
8. With regards the fence, what are your recommendations on bit gaurds and hold downs/featherboards and how best to accommodate them?
A lot of questions I know, but answers to just one will be a help
Thanks
Replies
Go Reds,
You'd probably do yourself some good to look at Norm's router table on the newyankee worshop..many of us have built that unit and are quite pleased. Conversely, watch the Router Guys a bit on the woodworkingchannel.com....with a very simple setup they get it done nicely. Also, Pat Warner has a great website for router info. Most of the questions your asking only you can answer, in other words, they are relative.
Quite a detailed list of questions -- you really know how to address an issue! I'm going to encourage you to think outside the box, and look at the Veritas steel router table top. You can build a benchtop stand for it in an hour or so, then go to a full-fledged cabinet down the way when you're ready. It will stay flat forever, whatever size router you put in it, and you can change from one router to another easily without having to make a new insert. Bit changes above the table are easy because of the thinness of the top.
No, a miter slot isn't needed. A fence-mounted sled, coping sled or push block will do the same thing, and you don't have to worry about adjusting the fence to be perfectly 90° to a slot.
Click here for info on the Veritas system.
Click here for an example of mounting it on a table saw wing.
And here is a tweener set-up....not a full-fledged cabinet, but a framed box for dust collection.
If you brave the search function here at Knots, you can probably find several posts from people who own the Veritas and have reported on it. All positive as far as I remember. The fence could use some improvement as far as its user-friendly rating, but the table top is great. I used it with a shop-built fence for 2 or 3 years.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Edited 5/25/2007 12:50 pm by forestgirl
I use a shop-built table (two layers of 3/4" MDF with shop-applied high pressure laminate on both sides) and it's flat enough that I've never been able to detect a problem in router-cut joinery. I've got it supported underneath every 8" or so, and the attachments are adjustable for height, just in case things get out of whack. So far, so good
The insert, on the other hand... Being extraordinarily cheap I purchased a 3/8" acrylic blank, and it sagged immediately. So I went to Lowe's and bought a 36" piece of 1/2" x 1/2" angle iron and added some rigidity to the insert. Big pain, don't recommend this as a good way to go, but it worked.
As far as what is flat enough, if you can cut shaker-style cabinet door rails and stiles and have 'em line up, it's good enough for me. I imagine my top and insert have several thousandths of differentiation across the surfaces, but as long as it works I don't care.
Some fundamentals.
I will second the New Yankee Workshop router table. Tons of storage, great dust collection. I modified it a bit (cutting it down 2 inches in width) in order to use the Jessem Fence. Also used the Jessem MastRLift.
It is a great router table. Heavy, stable, great performer.
Alan
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