Replies

1. 
   user-274461 | Nov 30, 2002 09:32pm | #1

   Hi Eric,

   I have both a Dewalt benchtop and a King Industrial (Canadian) 3 HP, 15" floor model.  The dewalt works great (virtually no snipe) but it found it was best for light finish cuts.  I usually buy my lumber undressed so I found I was pushing the limits of the Dewalt to fully dress wide boards.  I also resaw my own boards from logs from time to time and this also taxed the Dewalt to the limit.   It could do it but it just took longer than I wanted and probably put quite a strain on the motor. 

   So if you are doing this sort of thing, I would recommend a HD floor model (min 2 HP).  However, if you are just skimming pre-dressed lumber, the bench top model will be great.  I think Dewalt and Makita are the best in that group.  If you get a larger machine, I would recommned one with a bottom mounted motor and an enclosed base.  With this configuration, the thickness adjustment is easier (no motor to move up and down) and the motor is protected from the dust.  Also, bottom mounted planers allow you to pass the boards back over the top and they usually have rollers on top for this purpose. Hope this helps.

1. 
   eling98 | Nov 30, 2002 10:18pm | #2

   thanks for the feedback. I have usually used undressed lumber for most my projects. I'll update my research to take in your comments. The bench top models do seem light for the planing 8/4 rough stock. Anyone else have thoughts on this subject? Thanks! have a good weekend-Blessings-Eric

1. 
   BG | Nov 30, 2002 11:22pm | #3

   Eric,

   I've got the delta 12 1/2 and, like your other respondant, light cuts are my style on hardwoods 6" or more in width...usually about 8 cuts to a 360 turn when the full face of the board is engaged.  I have it set up with extensions of about 36" so I have no snipe. 

   To be frank, I'm not sure working rough lumber is worth the cost savings on a board foot basis.  There is just too much waste in both time and wood.  Also, many work arounds are required dealing with warped/twisted wood...and all the tool set up issues.   

2. 
   JeffKurtz | Dec 01, 2002 02:10am | #4

   Eric,

   I've found that if rough lumber is well cut, the bench top planer has on problem with it, provided the stock is well supported at both ends.  Rough-sawn lumber, however, often varies in size more than the 1/16" cut the planer allows.  When this is the case, it's just too much for the small machine to handle.

   I'm surprised that the 15" planer produces snipe.  Do you think the machine was set up improperly?

   Jeff

   Edited 11/30/2002 6:11:33 PM ET by Jeff K

1. 
   mfg_king | Dec 01, 2002 02:35am | #5

   Eric,

    I did some serious research about a year ago on this very same subject and came out in the end buying a Ridgid 13" portable. That machine is a wood hog! I've taken 1/8" cuts on 7+" wide red oak stock! It finishes very nicely with no snipe to speak of and it's pre-set thicknesses were within .007" out of the box. Excellent machine in all respects: price, quality, power and accuracy.

1. 
   eling98 | Dec 01, 2002 03:46am | #7

   Hey, thanks for the feedback. I have been doing research and the Rigid 13" portable planer has been on top of my short list. Good to hear you have been pleased with the performance. blessings-Eric

1. 
   Mach70 | Dec 01, 2002 07:15pm | #8

   Eric I appreciate your comments about the Rigid. I've been thinking of selling off my older model Makita (no other reason than I don't like the moveable-bed design). I was a little disappointed in FWW's recent comparison (Tools & Shops issue) the author didn't take more than a 1/32" finishing cut with any of the machines ("typical cut"). Testing each machine at the full rated depth and width of cut could have been very enlightening.

   Mark

2. 
   eling98 | Dec 02, 2002 01:24am | #9

   Hi Mach,

   take a look at "popular woodworking" (is that a sin to mention them here?) tool buying guide. They issue one a year. They have a good, and I feel comprehensive, review of a fair number of manufacturers. I also feel more confident about buying chinese made tools after reading one of their articles on the subject. - Eric

3. 
   Mach70 | Dec 04, 2002 08:36pm | #16

   I've looked for this issue & can't find it.  Is it old enough to be gone from the bookstand or maybe too new to have not appeared yet?

4. 
   eling98 | Dec 05, 2002 05:26am | #18

   HI Mach,

   I checked back on which issues. The last "Popular Woodworking" tool buying guide was October 2002, Issue #130. the 2001 guide: October 2001, Issue #124. They are pretty comparable...really only need one (they kinda re-hash 2001 in 2002 with one or two exceptions). hope it is helpful.

   Back to the planer string: I actually found a woodshop with a 16" jointer and 20" planer at the local high school that has adult ed open shop one night/week for $10/semester! I can get the dressing done there for now while I shop/save $ for the home shop.

   Thanks Rick for the great tip. For those of you in the L.A. area, the shop is through the Alhambra Adult Ed program at Alhambra H.S. They have a full complement of old, but solid, power tools and it is not too crowded.

   -Eric

5. 
   eling98 | Dec 05, 2002 05:27am | #19

   a P.S. to mach..the 2001 issue has a good article about chinese made tools.-Eric

6. 
   Biscardi | Dec 05, 2002 05:38pm | #20

   I have a little 10 inch Ryobi bench top model. It works well enough except on big , heavy wide long boards.It works ok on typical (4/4 )hardwood boards  when the blades are sharp. If you have access to other equipment for big runs , a benchtop is ok. I guess it is a convienience issue for a hobbyist. I wouldn't want to use it routinely for big runs.

   Frank

7. 
   eling98 | Dec 06, 2002 06:43am | #21

   Hi again,

   you can buy back issues from Popular woodworking at:

   http://www.popularwoodworking.com

   hope that helps tracking down a copy.-E

2. 
   eling98 | Dec 01, 2002 03:44am | #6

   Thanks for the feedback. The 15" planer at the shop I was going to had ALOT of BF put through it daily. That and many different people playing with it everyday usually threw it out of whack on a frequent basis. -E

3. 
   Glendo | Dec 05, 2002 04:55am | #17

   If the table rollers are set high you will get snipe. If they are set low, not so much. For rough  lumber high is better, for flat, smooth lumber a few 1/1OOO'S above the table will get you minimal snipege ( new word I just made up).

   To add to the rest of the discussion, if you can afford it and have room, the Delta, Jet, etc. 15" 3HP planers are good reliable machines. Unless you plan to hire someone to feed one hickory planks 40 hrs. a week they would likley last well into your next lifetime. The main advantage to floor over bench top I think would be being able to do larger projects or mill heavier planks.And its nice to have options.

   Glendo.

2. 
   DJK | Dec 02, 2002 05:10am | #10

   I have a like new Jet 13" planer/moulder I will sell for $600. It does an excelent job on rough lumber and on the slow speed leaves very good finish. Only ran about 400' through it.

   Dave Koury

1. 
   nicobie | Dec 02, 2002 08:38pm | #11

   Where do you live?The proof is in the puddin'

1. 
   DJK | Dec 02, 2002 10:17pm | #12

   Warren, MI. Email me for a pict. if interested.

   Dave Koury

3. 
   AlanTurner | Dec 03, 2002 12:53am | #13

   I have the 20" WoodTek; about $1200 or so, plus a broken back getting 770 lb. to the basement, through the house.  Have it on a mobile base, and move it without problem.  No snipe, knives change easily.  I keep a sharp set around.  It looks the same as a number of other Asian odels.  GI's is about 1800 or so; and I think Jet and Grizzly have them also.  Same factory?  This seems possible.

   I almost always buy lumber undressed, and prefer to straighten it myself before planing as opposed to buying it S2S since this process just makes the faces smooth and parallel, not flat and smooth and parallel.  Mine handles 19" of hard maple, with a bit of complaint, but planing wide stock, esp. after a glue up, is a pleasure.  The motor is on the bottom, so returning the wood to the business end over the top rollers is easy.

   Obviously, this is a personal decision based upon the type of work and lumber you are involved in.

1. 
   PlaneWood | Dec 03, 2002 08:36am | #14

   It's been my experience that rough cut lumber is generally cut to a minumum length of 8'6".  That allows for end checking, and also for end snipe caused by the planer.

   Like several others have said, If your going to be hogging lots of mean rought stuff then get the stationary floor models with lots of heft (cast iron).  Minimum 2hp for one 12" wide.  And, wide thick blades.

   For dressing pre-surfaced lumber, one of the portable planers (benchtop) should do the job.  The word 'portable' says it all.  They are made light so they can be more easily carried to a job site.  Also, they have a direct drive shaft as opposed to a belt driven shaft.  This means the motor on the latter turns slower and as such, should last a lot longer.   I have a heavy floor model (50 years old), but if I had room in my shop (and my budget) I get a bench top model for my light planing needs.

   And, leave room in your budget for a dust collector.  The planer rates top for producing shavings.

   ps - the above is just my opinion, and it's based on 40 years of my woodworking.  All of which may not be worth a plug nickel!

   PlaneWood by Mike_in_KatyPlaneWood

1. 
   AlanTurner | Dec 03, 2002 05:00pm | #15

   Your message is likely meant for the original poster, but what you say I largely agree with.  Where I buy my lumber, the lengths are largely what I choose.  Some are 14 to 16 ft; some are as short as 4 to 5 ft., depending upon my needs.  The yard is great, since if I need only a 5 ft. board, and cutting a board will still leave him 6' or more, he'll cut without complaint and sell only what I need, without any up-charge.

   I had a 12" snipe lock Delta before my upgrade a year or so ago, and I got snipe, noise, and many limits.  Now, no snipe to speak of and plenty of power.  I think mine is a 3hp, single phase (of the phase I am certain, of course).

   Ditto on the DC; these machines, even the smaller ones, really throw off the chips.

   Edited 12/3/2002 8:48:13 PM ET by s4s

4. 
   bobert26 | Dec 06, 2002 07:31am | #22

   I have a Delta13"stationary planer model DC-33  2hp 220 volt.  I have thought so often  of selling it (and buying a benchtop model to conserve space, I'm now in a smaller shop,  also I wanted to get away from having to set the knives the old fashioned way (ugh))  that I have actually purchased a Rigid 13" on sale, brought it home and tried it, then took it back,  then I bought a new Delta 13" 2 speed  benchtop model and tried it.  I took it back as well. The finish I get from the old Delta 13" stationary planer with the tired well used knives is so much better than either of the bench top models, that I have decided to push the old one from corner to corner in the shop and suffer through the knife changes. I usually get very little or no snipe if I carefully support the wood. I guess I made the right choice the first time.