Rather than reinvent the wheel, I’m interested in finding a plan for an Adirondack chair that has both a curved back and a seat that has a downward curve at the front (so it doesn’t crease your legs). I’ve checked the usual on-line sources and can only find one or the other curved back or front, but not both. Any suggestions that would save the effort of making my own design?
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Replies
http://www.gcwoodworks.com/adirondack_chair_woodworking_plans.htm
I have made a few of these, and they are comfortable. Some people have complained that the back slants too far back to be comfortable, but that is easy to change.
The only thing I think needs to be changed is where the back support meets the arms. If you leave a sharp edge it will catch on your elbow.
Thanks -- a definite possibility. I've bookmarked it.
Hey Jimma:
Norm made a good one a few years back. It's in one of his books. If I recall he made out of re-cycles board from a pickle factory or something.
Sailho
Last year I built a pair of chairs from downloaded plans. Google on "Jake's Chair" and you'll find the plans.
They are extremely comfortable and the plans are well put together. Make some decent templates as you'll be asked to make more.
My attempts attached
Thanks very much, Daddyman. I've checked out the links and downloaded the Jake's Chair file. I like the design and had actually seen it on a Google search, but hadn't gone into the details for some reason. Anyhow, it may be the one I make as the hardware looks pretty straightforward and, once I go to the trouble of making templates, I might as well use it as a stock plan. I'll probably use cypress. Thanks again.
I jsut went to Gooble and typed floding adirondack chair plans. I got lots of hits and some with curves.
Do yorself a favor, make one that folds. You can store it inside during winter.
Thanks, Don -- see the above. Since I live in Central Florida, there's no need to make one that folds, so I'm likely to use the Jake's plan.
I haven't had experience with curved back adirondack chairs, but I've built 3 adirondack chairs using Woodcraft plans. These chairs are well designed and very comfortable. I made one from white cedar and two from ipe. The white cedar is not very durable unless you use thicker stock and the ipe chairs weigh too much to move around effectively, although they still look like the day I made them. If I were to do another, I'd consider a mahogany, or cypress, and consider modifying the Woodcraft plans for a curved seat back.
Interesting, Steve. I have a Woodcraft near me and may check out their plans with an eye toward making a curved back with their plans. How was it to work with ipe? My son (a builder) is known for his use of ipe around here and has given me some to play with. He just built an outdoor kitchen for someone and made all of the doors for it as well as the woodwork for an outdoor bar from ipe. I guess if you're going to predrill all of the screw holes anyway it would be about as easy to work with as anything. . . . only thing is having to be in good shape to lift it, eh?
I'm sorry if I said the woodcraft plans - I meant the "Woodsmith" plans. http://www.woodsmith.com/plans/adirondack-furniture/ Anyway, the Ipe is difficult to cut and plane, and I had to drill a pilot hole, shank hole and countersink for each stainless screw to avoid snapping them. The chair probably weighs close to 100 pounds, so I wouldn't say its very portable, but it does look new with the occasional coat of Teak oil, although the oil hardly penetrates anyway. I would not suggest using Ipe unless you plan to put it somewhere outside and leave it there. If the furniture will be sheilded from the elements by an overhang, ipe is probably overkill and I would use a wood that is lighter and easier to work with. The chairs I made are plenty comfortable, even without a curved back, and they can be built in a day, once you have made templates
Well, I wasn't really going to make one out of ipe since I know he limitations of that wood (and my wife's ability to lift heavy objects). Cypress will be my choice. Thanks for the Woodcraft correction. I think I have the issue of Woodsmith. Imagine the work involved in buiulding a whole deck out of ipe which my son does on occasion....
I will gladly put in a plug for the design that Norm Abrams sells on the NYW website.
I have made a lot of these -- including a large run from recycled lumber that came from old pickle vats.
I made some with 3/4" stock (which is what he specs), but I prefer 5/4 material -- which gives the chair a nice looking sense of heft.
It has a curved back and a curved seat, and I think they are simple to make, and is just about the most comfortable Adirondack I have come across. Many are too low, and the back slants back too much for my taste.
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"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
I've built some of Norm's Adiron. Chair & Loveseats and they are comfortable. I'd like to make a change and add a lumbar curve into the back slats. I've read about steam bending vs. laminated. Has anyone experience with these? Which is better? I'l be using primarily Cypress and Cedar.
Thanks for your help.
Woodworker3301.
Here's a design I have used for about 20 years. I build them in redwood. They are sturdy yet lightweight.
Tim
Thanks Killenwood. I'm wanting to take the lower portion of the back slat and add a slight curve inward toward the middle of the back. Have you ever tried anything like that?
I am not sure what you mean by a slight curve inward toward the middle. I'm trying to visualize but can't get it. Nevertheless, I have not tried any other configuration of the back slats (no curves just slightly tapered).
Tim
PMBI but I think he means lumbar support.My goal is for my work to outlast me. Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.
John D, yes I think you are right that he means a lumbar support. Not sure it is worth it on this crude type of chair to apply this sophistication. I can understand for an office chair in which hours are spent. Not so for an Adirondack.
Tim
As you get older, you may find you want comfort when you can get it. hehe.My goal is for my work to outlast me. Expect my joinery to get simpler as time goes by.
The June Woodworkers Journal has a beauty in it. Is it all right to mention another magazine? A Greene and Greene style. Nicest I've ever seen.
I have also made the jake's chair, from western red cedar. IMO, it is much more comfortable than other adirondack chairs I have sat on. I'm a bit shorter than your average (5' 6") and really like the dimensions and shape of ol' jake.
Tex
Sorry, but I didn't ike it. The staright back and gratuitous holes just didn't click with me.
I would like to give another nod to Norm’s version. I just made another four of them for my patio. I recently retired two that were over ten years old. (Wife thought they were looking a little tired) I am also planning to make a couple of his matching loveseats. The back and seat are curved. However, the front of the seat may not be curved to your liking. The last seat slat is more parallel to the ground than tipped down. I am six foot and I find them very comfortable without any binding.
I really like the Lee Valley plan. I have built both the love seat and single chairs as rockers.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=42665&cat=1,46158
Thanks. They look about right.
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