What’s the best bandsaw?
Discussion Forum
Get It All!
UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month.
Start Your Free TrialCategories
Discussion Forum
Digital Plans Library
Member exclusive! – Plans for everyone – from beginners to experts – right at your fingertips.
Highlights
-
Shape Your Skills
when you sign up for our emails
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. -
Shop Talk Live Podcast
-
Our favorite articles and videos
-
E-Learning Courses from Fine Woodworking
-
-
Replies
How many guesses do we get?
John
Three
Minimax, Minimax, Minimax.
Teager,
Aggazzani or Meber or Griggio or Centauro or Casadei (Italian higher end manufacturers.)
I've got the Hammer N4400 (16") as a small workshop saw that is a reasonable quality Italian machine, rebadged and sold through Felder.
Apparently Centauro saws are rebadged and sold through MiniMax USA, other US importers of the other brands.
Depends on your point of view, I suppose - I'm used to a small saw being 24" wheel diameter - the home workshop and school workshop saws are tiddlers at 14" wheels or so.
Cheers,
eddie
Question: What is it that these European BS provide that say a General or Delta don't? What features/capabilities or quality makes them superior, and for what purposes?Glaucon
If you don't think too good, then don't think too much...
The European bandsaws have better guides, fences, horsepower and resaw capability than the Delta, Powermatic and Jet saws. Compare a 20" Powermatic with an Agazzani, Minimax, Laguna or Bridgewood (all European). For the same dollar you get a lot more saw with more features and benefits.
You are cor ect about the current models of those saws but the older Powermatics are as good or better than the Euro saws.DJK
I would have to disagree completely on that statement. Most of the European saws have much better guides than the PM ever had. Northfield, Tannewitz, Olivers were much better bandsaws overall. I never considered PM to be any better than middle of the road personally. Been using European stuff such as SCMI, Giben, Morbidelli for 35 years and US companies are so far behind it's pathetic.
Yep, Yep, Yep. None of those new italian saws have anything on a good ole Tannewitz or Oliver. My tanny could resaw 21" under the guide, and I could spin hardwood for scrolling and get great cuts. I miss that saw, but I do appreciate the extra space in the shop (approx 10 x 10), now that it's gone.
Jeff
Jeff,
Your not happy with your new bandsaw?
I sold my tannewitz, because it was taking up wayyyyyyyyyy toooooooooo much space. I'm using an 18" Jet right now, while I decide to pull the trigger on a MM16. Minimax is unable to display the saw to me anywhere close, so I'm waiting until I get a chance to touch and feel it, then I'll buy it. No more blind purchases ever again for me.
Jeff
Hi Glaucon,
I think that others have answered your questions.
Over here, the Jet tools are sold and I've bought a couple of Chinese tools in boxes that come with 'Grizzly' assembly instructions. The fit and finish are in a different league (far lower) to those of the European saws, and equipment is not manufactured to the same degree of precision.
The saws that I am referring to come in a small size of 24", average wheel diameter 36". A couple of manufacturers make 18" or 16" models for smaller shops and they'd all supply at least 40" or bigger. They are designed to be used daily in production shops.
Features: They only really make bandsaws as their primary line, so their business success depends upon making a quality product. Therefore, everything has to be built to strict QC and their business success depends upon getting it right. I'm not a fan of the European guides, preferring ball bearing roller guides, but there's nothing wrong with them - just they tend to sieze a little easier.
While I was planning on spending time resetting a saw that I bought new (Hammer N4400) from the factory, everything was dead flat and absolutely spot on. By way of example, I was ripping at 45 degrees, flipping end-for-end as I didn't want to put my finger near the 8" of exposed blade that this required for the job or us a pushstic, and the two 45 degree cuts were perfectly aligned. At this point, they won my admiration (I use the saw to resaw 8-10" wide boards and it cuts perfectly.)
We're talking apples and oranges as I have a suspicion that the original poster was thinking of something smaller and cheaper. But s/he did ask who made the best.
Cheers,
eddie
Edited 9/12/2006 4:32 pm by eddiefromAustralia
What will you be doing with it, and what's your budget?
There isn't one- it depends on what you're going to be doing .........bigger isn't always better.
#1 = My 1954, 36", 4 speed stick shift Moak Super Band Saw with 24" resaw and Carter wheels. Three made for General Motors and only 2 are still around.
#2 = My 1943? 20" Crecent BS. All 850lbs. + of it.
DJK
It's all based on your budget and needs. Different answers on all counts. Learn to ask your question better by giving more info such as budget and requirements. Hobbyist versus production shop... Resaw versus scroll work are entirely different saws.
The best bandsaw for what................................................................?
Assuming the bandsaw has been properly set up, the proper blade with correct tpi is matched to the job and the motor is powerful enough.. all bandsaws should do a reasonable job cutting curves if the stock will fit under it's height maximum.
And then you move to re-saw. I would start comparing starting with the back-frame. Since cast iron has been abandoned by most because of the rising cost, most are now made from steel. Which offers the strongest design to resist flex when great tension has been set for carbide and thick bi-metal blades?
Does the machine have cast iron, precision balanced wheels and pulleys? Is the spring strong enough and mounted in a way to deliver great tension without un-due stress on those parts? Does the machine have well built roller or Euro bearing and are they easily accessible and easy to adjust? Are the tires quality? Are the bottom guides mounted close to the table for maximum support? Is the guide bar strong and have precision rack and pinion or chain and pulley that allows movement without re-setting guides? Is the trunnion cast and secured in a way that it is rock-solid? Does then machine have a tire brush and sufficient dust removal ports? Is the brake designed well and work properly. Does it have enough horse-power for those occasional jobs in thick black locust, etc. Better to have too much than not enough when the occasion rises that you need it!
Finally does the company that sells the machine have the gift of "service and support after the sale" and are common parts (tires, bearings, etc.) readily available?
I don't think there is a stand-alone "best band-saw". I spent two months looking into the above questions and came to my own conclusion and opinion of what is the "best of the best" based on what I found which included viewing most at the IWF show in Atlanta (Bridgewood didn't exhibit this year).
So.. the best band-saw very well may depend on your personal needs and what you find when comparing various machines side by side with what you felt were important design issues and dis-regarding the "spiffy" paint job. And that would be hard for most to determine as they don't often get the chance of side by side comparison.
And factory commercial is a whole new can of worms, as the baby BS's generally start in the 24" range and go up and cast iron has until now ruled for the most part...
Just my personal opinion and I realize everyone else has their's...
SARGE..
I think the wrong question was asked. There is no best bandsaw, but there is a best operator. Michael Fortune and his old General will do better than me and my MiniMax. Perhaps a better question is what bandsaw is best under what conditions? If my shop were ideal, I would have a 14" Jet, or old Delta--you get the idea, with a 1/4" blade on it; and a big MiniMax 32" with a 1 1/2" Lennox Carbide Blade and a power feeder on it for resawing. And I would keep my MiniMax 16" with a 1/2" or 1" Lennox carbide blade for general ripping--I prefer ripping on my bandsaw to my tablesaw, much safer.
How do you like your new MM16? I haven't gotton around to plugging mine in yet.
tinkerer2..
I had scheduled this week off for delivery mid-week.. but an un-expected result from a cardiology test showed a skip beat last week. I have never had any medical problems in my life.
Had to call Eric at MM to put in a holding pattern. Probably going to be after the first of the year before I get the green light to "Go".
Dis-appointed.. to some degree. But, I have no problems at my age with proper arrangement of priorities. I just hung a pic of the MM 16 on the pole next to the new 220V 30A outlet. Working fine.. so far! ha.. ha...
Regards...
SARGE..
I told my Doc that my heart was skipping ever so often. He took my pulse, and sure enough it missed a beat. He didn't seem too concerned. Says the astronauts, who are selected to be in robust health miss also. I sure hope your problem is no worse than theirs.
Thanks tinkerer2. I sort of found that out yesterday. Was at my local health-care (KP) and was getting a reading on BP machine of 40-43 on my pulse. They took a palm read and was getting 80-86. They weren't taking a chance of such a radical change and I ended up going by ambulance to a local ER for heart monitor.
On the way an EM looked at EKG graph putting two and two together with palm reads explained that the BP was not picking up the early irregular beat making the 40-43 incorrect and true was 80-86. The head ER doctor summed it up the same way after closely monitoring both BP and palm reads. About 9 PM last night, he came in and jerked the electrodes off and said to go home after a similar explanation of why.
Just got referred to a cardiologist and an appointment for the "big buck" boys and girls who specialize can sort out if there is any major problem. In the meantime, the grass is still growing and certain tree's need to come down before winter. Life goes on as soon as you wake up breathing each morning. Discovered that long ago in Viet Nam and abide by that theory day to day. :>)
Regards...
SARGE..
Teager,
You tell me what is the best type of woman to marry,
and I'll tell you what the best bandsaw is. :-)
As the saying goes: Give a person a fish and you feed them for a day. Teach him to fish and you feed him for a lifetime. SARGEgrinder47 taught you how to fish. His was a thoughtful and wisdom-ful response to your question.
Let me rephrase that. There is no BEST Bandsaw. Sarge gave you some suggested criteria for evaluating bandsaws. I don't think you'll come up with a better set, but you can try. Once you decide on your set of criteria, you can apply them yourself and see what you think is best.
Whenever anyone tells me "yyyy is the best xxxx.", my response is: "Really, what criteria did you use?"
Go on Google, and search for "best bandsaw". Each manufacturer's site will recommend their own. Almost all of the "non-manufacturer sites" are sponsored. It is a tough world out there. If you ask a silly question, you'll get a silly answer. It is best to ask good questions, and to know the motivations of those you are asking. In the future, if you are interested in buying an 8" jointer, I would post a question: "What criteria should I use to select the 8" jointer that's most appropriate for my specific needs, which are as follows ---"
I hope this helps.
By the way, I have a Rikon. Given my bank account, my needs and my alternatives, it was the best alternative for me at the time. As Sarge says, they all cut good curves.
Enjoy,
Mel
Measure your output in smiles per board foot.
My Wood-Mizer.
9619 said it best about 'best':
Best for what? And once you've settled on your desired quality level, how big do you need (want?)
I have a Laguna Tools LT16. It has been a fine tool for the last 10 years for me. Fine Woodworking agrees with me on this one. Check out their article on the LT bandsaws. Gobs of 220v power, upgraded fence and blade guides help me cut super straight resaws with minimal drift. With a deep hook stellite blade, I've cut some incredible slices of hardwood.
I don't use it much for little curvy stuff, as I have a scroll saw. However, I've done some production runs of tight thick curves in 6" beams and it didn't miss a beat.
There have been quite a few improvements in the past several years and the saws they make now are much better than mine. If I had all the money to spend on one today, I would get the LT24. 2 foot x 3 foot table: huge space and tons of power. I'm on board.
If you find out which is best, though, better keep it to yourself. Nobody else wants to know unless they've already got one. :-)
Jeff
In what price range? And what size?
" There'll be no living with her now" - Captain Jack Sparrow
Edited 9/14/2006 5:26 pm ET by Ricks503
Hay, lets be honest, there are good, better and best. i here all this stuff about its the person but in the end that person could do even a better or faster job with a better saw. I just brought a new MM and found it to be wonderful. I sorry there are saws out there that are not worth 1 nickel. As i was buying these saw i depended on the advise of people like this group to guide me in the right direction to hopfully make the right decision. Price i think is one of the biggest factor in bandsaw buying. There's under $1,500, under and over $2,000. Under 1,500 i found a lot from everywhere. Over 1500 there is the euro's. Customer Sat is prob. the most important for me to have someone to talk to about your product. Laguna was close but the guides scared me a little. As my dad would say different strocks for different folks. Good luck in buying.
What type of engineering job do you hold?
Since the house is on fire let us warm ourselves. ~Italian Proverb
Gas Transmission.
Teager,
I don't know that anyone can provide much more than what has already been posted, but I would like to add my perspective.
Determine what you want to make with it. Cut curves? or do you want to resaw? How much money do you have? What you WANT to spend, or have budgeted may not be enough to get the quality you want. How frequently will you use it?
I want a tool that is quality, one that I don't have to constantly tweak, rebuild, repair, or anything else (other than everything needs some maintenance). Someone mentioned Bridgewood, which is Italian made and, as I understand, in that class of very well made pieces of equipment. I have one and I can resaw wide boards and the motor is plenty powerful. I have never bogged it down. And, critically, Bridgewood (Wilke Machinery) has good customer service.
Alan - planesaw
This forum post is now archived. Commenting has been disabled