Replies

1. 
   TomT226 | Apr 20, 2003 04:09pm | #1

   Whatever blade you use, put a strip of blue low stick tape over the area you're cutting, on the finish side. After you've cut, peel the tape off toward the cut. That'll keep splintering down to a minimum.

2. 
   BG | Apr 20, 2003 04:27pm | #2

   Dhoov,

   I put a Freud 40 tooth in my hand saw and it works fantasticly...not very expensive either.

3. 
   RANGERP75R | Apr 20, 2003 07:04pm | #3

   DHoov2

      I have a PC circular saw with an Oldham 60 tooth carbide mounted just for plywood. The Oldham is cheap $10-$12. Like Tom, use the tape and I also score prior to eliminate splintering. When the Oldham gets dull, replace it for that amount. Good blade reagarless of probable public view of it.

      BTW, a Tru-Grip for cross-cuts with the built in clamping is a great invention. I also made a guide for fast set-up. These combined give me very accurate, clean cuts..

   Success...

   sarge..jt

4. 
   nigelUsa | Apr 21, 2003 07:15am | #4

   Makita make a blade for cutting hardie planks and it cross cuts plywood as good as the 150 tooth steel blades about $45 each.

5. 
   Tooleo1 | Apr 21, 2003 10:38am | #5

    I use a Freud 40 tooth carbide blade ( $15, HD ) with excellent results. I also keep one of my saws set up just for cutting splintery materials. It is a Dewalt worm gear with a piece of laminate flooring added to the shoe. Cut to the same size as the base of the saw, it preforms the same function as a zero clearance insert on the table saw. As an interior carpenter I find this saw ( and a true grip clamp) indispensable for cutting doors. The smooth surface of the laminate on the shoe allows me to cut a painted door without leaving so much as a scratch on the workpiece.

     I always set up a guide and make my cuts in two passes, the first with the saw set to make only a very shallow cut. For plywood this first cut should be only as deep as the surface veneer, and for crosscutting solid wood I set the blade no deeper than 3/32".  I was inspired to try this technique after reading about scoring attachments for cabinet saws and indeed it does work very well. Even with a poor quality blade you can all but eliminate tearout.

   Happy cutting!

   Tooleo

1. 
   eddiefromAustralia | Apr 21, 2003 12:26pm | #6

   Exactly the same technique I use when I'm away from the panel saw.  First cut scores the line and the through cut is into the surface so it doesn't chip out either. 

   I also use a steel cutting blade for this, 100 tooth, positive rake angle (tooth angle greater than 90 degrees).  I leave this set up in my circ saw as it's mainly used for rough docking or ripping panels down to size.

   The guide I use has a bit of 5 ply, prob 10mm (3/8) thick for the base with a 2" x 1/4" steel flat attached to this with countersunk screws.  Side of saw base sits against the steel flat.

   After the first cut, the cutting line for the saw is defined clearly (it's the edge of the base), so for any further cuts, I clamp the guide down so the saw-cut edge of the base is on the cut line.  Quick and easy to do multiple cuts.

   Cheers,  eddie

   Edited 4/21/2003 6:16:52 AM ET by eddie (aust)

2. 
   RANGERP75R | Apr 21, 2003 06:05pm | #7

   Tooleo

      Thanks for the tip on the zero-clearance insert for the circular saw. Great idea. I'll be making one to-nite. Agree as I stated in my post with scoring an ain't those Tru-Grips great. ha..ha..

   Have a good day...

   sarge..jt