Replies

1. 
   Sancho | Dec 14, 2003 02:55am | #1

   Need more info. Are you planning on producing them for sale or are you planning on just making a couple for your own house. If its for yourself, you could get away just a miter box and a jap saw. If for production then you need to decide if you are going to use the compound feature if not now then in the future. Please be a little more descriptive of your purposes and we can more accurately answer your question. 

   Darkworksite4:

   Estamos ganando detrás el estado de Calif. Derrotando a un #### a la vez. DESEA VIVO LA REVOLUCIÓN

   
   

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   Edited 12/13/2003 10:12:03 PM ET by RonT

1. 
   Amy1 | Dec 17, 2003 09:51pm | #3

   My Husband is an artist and wishes to make his own stretchers and frames. He likes to paint large so stock stretchers often don't work and even simple frames are expensive. Does that help?  Amy

1. 
   Sancho | Dec 17, 2003 11:41pm | #4

   Yes it does. Their are some fine mitre saws that are not powered and are very accurate for your purposes and not to expensive. I cant remember the manufacturer right now however. But  it appears a simple powered miter saw will work also. Delta has a nice littel one for around 100 bucks. I think you can get it at the depot or lowes. I would also check out tool crib of the north through amazon.com. I would go for a 10" because it is a more common blade size. Ill check around for the saw that isnt powered and yet is very accurate. Ill let ya know. 

   Darkworksite4:

   Estamos ganando detrás el estado de Calif. Derrotando a un #### a la vez. DESEA VIVO LA REVOLUCIÓN

1. 
   Amy1 | Dec 18, 2003 10:21pm | #5

   Thanks Ron!

   Amy

2. 
   stevemorris | Dec 19, 2003 02:12am | #6

   check out http://www.leevalley.com for an excellent hand saw miter box or their miter trimmer

   an inexpensive miter saw (powered) with a top quality blade is another option, stick to a quality brand rather than a cheapie for the saw ie delta, dewalt, bosch etc etc and get a freud blade suitable for the material to be cut, usually their "ultra fine crosscut", the miters will be glass smoothcaulking is not a piece of trim

1. 
   Sancho | Dec 19, 2003 07:10am | #7

   Yep those are the type of saws I was talking about. Thanks Steve I was just getting ready to research it. Ya saved me about 4 hours work(Im kind of internet inept) ..:>) 

   Darkworksite4:

   Estamos ganando detrás el estado de Calif. Derrotando a un #### a la vez. DESEA VIVO LA REVOLUCIÓN

1. 
   Amy1 | Dec 19, 2003 06:55pm | #8

   Thank you both very much. Have a great holiday!

2. 
   Sancho | Dec 19, 2003 09:35pm | #9

   You'll find those hand saws very accurate. Enjoy. 

   Darkworksite4:

   Estamos ganando detrás el estado de Calif. Derrotando a un #### a la vez. DESEA VIVO LA REVOLUCIÓN

2. 
   shedhappens | Dec 15, 2003 04:39pm | #2

   you may not even need a miter saw.  don't be fooled into thinking that the mitered corner is exceptionally strong.  it isn't without 'mechanical' reinforcement -- (bisquits, screws and such) 

   If I was building a stretcher I'd probably just make butt joints, strenthened with glue and pocket screws.  You can buy a kreg pocket jig for about fifty bucks -- as long as you already have a drill and a screw driver, it's a lot cheaper than a miter saw.

   (of course, this presupposes that you have some way of making square butt cuts in your material) -- like RonT said -- a primitive miter box and a japanese or back saw will do the trick.

   on the other hand, if you think you're going to be doing a pile of these --you can get an entry level miter saw for about $150 from Lowes or Home Depot.  You don't need a slide.  and don't buy the cheapest one, you'll be sorry.