Best “cheap” bench plan? Gotta be Quick
forestgirl
| Posted in Project Plans/CAD Software on
OK, really needing help here. Can’t stand the cabinet/counter I’ve been sorta using as a bench, and have a few days between projects to build one of those quick-and-dirty, works-but-ugly benches. No more than 6′ wide, up to 30″ deep. MDF top is fine. I have 2 or 3 different vises hiding in the cupboards, one I’ll need help with restoring.
So! What are your favorite plans for one of these? If you have a magazine citation, all the better. This bench will do the job for probably a year before I have the room and the money to build a half-way decent one.
forestgirl — you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can’t take the forest out of the girl 😉
Replies
FG,
I'd divide the project into two parts: good base this year, improved top next year. For the base I'd buy some 4x4 doug fir and assemble a design similar to Sarge's Whale Back. The key here are the dimensions. If your limited to a 60" top you need to make sure the vises can operate without interference from the base. You can then throw a combination MDF/ply top on the base for as long as it takes to make your final plans.
For the top try to buy a "defective" solid core exterior door (I mean solid MDF with thick veneers both sides) from local door/window manufacturers. They sometimes use them for dunnage when transporting finished products to retail building suppliers, so you might try them also. The QA dept. at these shops reject these doors for cosmetic reasons, and you should be able to pick one that has one good side.
These doors are 1 3/4" thick, remain true, and can be cut to your dimensions. I have used one for years, mounted vises/dogs on it with no problem. When I get around to building my "ultimate" bench, I will probably transfer it to the new base.
For the base I would suggest a good method of "triangulation", such as a solid plywood back or 2 X 4's on 45 degree angles.
Pete
Morning FG...
BG had an excellent solution.... 4 x 4 Doug fir instead of the laminated doug fir I used. I did that because it was from a two single beams recovered from a civil war warehouse here in Atlanta that had been ripped down and I wanted to make something permanent from that wood.
If you used 4 x 4 DF and threw on a make-shift top for the moment, you could build it in a couple of days. The top and it's glue up is what takes longer. Mine sits on 6 cone shaped dowels that extrude from the top and the heavy weights gravity holds it down. Just lift and replace with any new top in seconds by drilling the required female holes in the bottom of a new top for the bullet head cones mounted in the top of the 4 legs and one in each cross-stretcher. If you cut a lap joint in the top side to side stretcher, you can add a whale-back with a saddle joint. If you do the whale-back, I assure you that if you have M&T'ed everything else below, it won't be racked even if ganged up on by "mad-men" recruited from the World Wrestling' Federation. :>)
I don't use plans, but the pics below are self-explanatory in themselves as I keep it simple. BTW.. pic 6 is a white oak table and chairs that I just finished for the break-fast nook and the table would probably fit the need you requested also. Mount some vises on it and it and you can work while eating "grits" in your break-fast nook enjoying the scenery. ha.. ha... ha.. ha..ha...
Regards...
Sarge.. jt
Edited 3/30/2007 9:02 am ET by SARGEgrinder47
Dang Sarge,
That table and chair set is beautiful, I love the curves on the chair backs...wish I could do that.
And, I like the photos of your table. May have to work up something like that here soon.
Erik
Morning Erik...
Thank you for the kind words... I have never built a chair in 35 years and was my first attempt (and may be the last as chair-makers are a distinctly specialized breed IMO). I was building a country kitchen table and a library or school chair fit the bill as both complimentary to that and a simple design for first attempt.
The chairs are of Indonesian rubber tree (para-wood) recovered from pallets broken down from my part time job. We get a ton of pallets from that region that para-wood is used for both pallets and furniture. For $2 a pallet I'm charged... I won't complain of high cost.
Regards...
Sarge.. jt
Thanks, Sarge and everyone else. These ideas are helping alot! Keep 'em coming!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
FG
I use a solid core door too, obtained for about $5 from the local Habitat for Humanity store; base is two-bys and Simpson Strong-tie connectors, peg-board on three sides. Strong and cheap and haven't outgrown it yet (although admittedly looks sad compared to some I've seen here). If I needed something better, I think I'd consider the pre-made tops from Grizzly but still make my own base. I saw a table like that go at recent estate sale for $10 and am still kicking myself.
Sarge,
Beautiful job on the table. I am thinking of doing some chairs myself. Do you mind my asking where did you get that design from? I love the curved backs.
Morning Mark...
I got the design from my local library. Not from a book they have, but from the chair I was sitting in scanning a book non-wood related. :>)
I was building a country kitchen table and the first though that came to mind was what I refer to as a library or school chair. I used to love to sit in those sturdy oak monsters while traveling the world through adventure books when I was younger. I downed 3 Messer-schmidts once when around 10 years old from the sturdy, swept-back cock-pit seat of my P-51 Mustang (disguised as a library chair). Once I got behind them, they were no match for a 10 year old with a vivid imagination. ha.. ha...
Armed with steel welding rods and note-pads, the library, a visit to the local grammar school and a few local furniture stores provided the curves and basic measurements. The thin steel rods got bent to shape and measurements were recorded on note-pad that got re-arranged to my liking back at the shop. I went through several designs (about a month of touch and go with trail and error) before what you see got all the kinks out. Once a proto-type was ready, the others were basically assembly line production.
The chairs in their simple design was not half the battle compared to finishing them. What seemed to be thousands of nooks and crannies on chairs. Nine coats of wipe-on poly ( I only use poly for kitchen and bathroom projects) latter, I was not enthusiastic about becoming a full time chair maker. My hat is off to those that are as I feel it requires a special talent backed with extreme patience.
I wish I could supply you with plans Mark, but like everything else I have under-taken in the last 35 years, I just make them up from visual designs and dimensions I have seen, taken and modified on my trusty note-pad. As long as I have imagination, I likely won't be using someone else's idea to the letter as called for in a blue-print or plan.
BTW.. this was my first attempt at chairs in 35 years of wood-butcher. I made them from Indonesian rubber tree (para-wood) I recovered from pallet bases we get at work from over-seas. I was looking for a useful purpose for the lengths I have acquired over the last year or so. I pay $2 a pallet as we sell most to a local pallet company that resells them to industry.
Regards...
Sarge.. jt
Edited 4/3/2007 7:56 am ET by SARGEgrinder47
Sarge,
Imagination is a good skill to have. I guess I'll go to the library and see what their chairs are like. Thanks for the insight.
You're welcome Mark. Good luck with your search. If you dig deep enough, the treasure you're looking for is usually found and much closer to home than you probably imagined!
Regards...
Sarge.. jt
The others have some good suggestions but you asked for cheap and dirty. Here are some photos of a bench I made too many years ago that was to be used for a much shorter time then I have used it. It still gets space in the shop but the serious work is now done on a "proper" bench with some really nice vises.
Anyway, this is made of construction grade lumber: 4x4 legs and 2x6 aprons. Do a lap joint kind of thing to join the aprons to the legs and use lag screws to fasten. Use some glue if you think it will really have a long life or if you don't care to ever take it apart. The top is an old exterior solid-core door. I covered mine with formica but a sheet of 1/4 inch tempered hardboard is cheaper and has a nicer feel. Vises can be mounted with abandon...... remember this isn't a pretty thing. Oh yea, add diagonal bracing as needed and a shelf with drawer unit if you want to. Paint would be nice....... And, allow enough overhang to enable clamps to have a place to grab without running into the aprons.
Ahhhhh, seriously cheap and dirty! Thanks for the pics. I see a handplane in one of them. Am I to assume it holds up pretty well under planing activities?forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
You can add diagonal bracing for additional shear strength until you run out of wood and each bit will stiffen the bench. I never got all that carried away, my bracing is rather minimal but it's enough to keep the bench from doing the shimmy.The handplane is just resting there. The bench I'm now using for such activity is out of the picture. It is seriously robust: concrete, steel, plywood, and ash. With a tempered hardboard "disposable" work surface.
forestgirl,
A solid core door works great. Mine is a solid core birch door 1¾" thick mounted on a double layer of ¾" plywood which is lag bolted to the wall studs.
It DOES NOT RACK at all! I'll take some pics of mine and post for you tomorrow.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
FGIf indeed you are in a hurry to get this done, consider the cheap and dirty method. I built my bench for less than $200 because I needed to get going on some things. The base is douglas fir 2x4's laminated together for legs. The aprons rails are 2x4's and there is a plywood shelf 4" off the bottom for storage and weight. The top is 3 layers of 1" MDF--that's overkill--not sure what I was thinking, but the sucker doesn't even think about moving or racking during the most strenuous hand plane work. I've got a cast iron vise on the left front and a plywood planing stop on the left end. The bench is 6' x 30". When I am ready to build the 'real' bench, this one will become an assembly table or stand for benchtop tools. Hope you are making curlies with the 605. Tom"Notice that at no time do my fingers leave my hand"
Tom (and others): the quick-and-dirty benches predominantly use construction 2x4's and/or 4x4's. My experience with this lumber has not been great. Is there a "grade" of construction lumber that's dried better and stays straighter than the stuff out in the yard at the lumber store?forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
FGThe douglas fir that I used had been in my garage for 2-3 years. One of the characteristics of doug fir is its very straight grain. None of the wood I had had warped or twisted in any way--still dead straight. It cost more than southern yellow pine, but is well worth the cost. For a bench of this type, it's perfect. For a dream bench I'd use maple or beech or ash.
BTW, I went to the Woodworking Show in Houston today. Steel City Tools has a new 14" bandsaw out that looks like a winner. Based on the Delta design. 1.5 hp, big cast iron table, cast iron wheels, light, tension release and built in mobile base. If you buy it at the show, you get a $100 rebate. I may send a friend back tomorrow to pick it up for me. Tom"Notice that at no time do my fingers leave my hand"
At the best, lumberyard wood is kiln dried to 19%, so they claim. I have used 4 X4's for legs on several quickie benches/stands. The only 4 X 4' available here are pressure treated, unless we glue up 2 by const. boards. I have had no warping/twisting in the short lengths (approx 30") needed for bench legs. I then screw the aprons and diagonals securely. With the solid core door top I have had no real problems with movement. I also use 3/4" CDX for a shelf about 10" up from floor, resting on 2 x 4 boards. Not elegant at all, but I can do one to get on with my porojects. The real problem is I say ithese are only temporary, but I haven't gotten around to making a FWW grade bench/stand yet!
If you do put drawers under, I would not use any handles that protrude, but instead use fingerholes or some type of grip under the drawer front.
I do not know of any cheap lumber that could be subbed for constr. grade. Send pics!
Pete
Hi FG;I would second the suggestion of looking at Johns bench. I am still drying my lumber for the top but I really like the simplicity of the base design and I have been thinking of the solid core door top as a temp since i have one that I use already.BTW thanks for the suggestion re: 12" CMS blades, picked up a saw and blade fri. started to set it up yesterday. Some further tweeking should set it right today.Cheers Greg
"Some further tweaking should set it right today." Cool! Did I reference my little tutorial on checking for accuracy on the miter saw (or table saw, actually)? If not, here it is.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Forestgirl,
If you're still looking you might want to chec this one out http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ProjectsAndDesign/ProjectsAndDesignPDF.aspx?id=25186
I've had a couple of friends build them and they thougt they were great and you can easily adjust the size to meet your needs.
Jack
Yep, that one's been recommended by 3 different people! (I'm posting at WWA also). I'm wavering at the moment between it and John White's bench. Took the drastic step this weekend of removing two large items from my shop (big downdraft table, big plywood cart), which of course created complete chaos. I'm almost back to a workable shop now, so will see what this coming week brings.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
JamieNo you didn't reference the tutorial so thank you. Unfortunately I was not able to access the info. A notice appeared stating that I have been banned from the forum. (or something to that effect) This happened before from Marc Spagnuolo's site. Those WWA folks are a tough bunch eh? I wonder if I need to sign up first?Anyway with the exception of a further adjustment to the right hand fence, nothing that a bit of filing can't fix, I think I'm ready to put it through its paces this week and see how it goes. I made up a couple of zero clearance inserts for the saw which were dead easy compared to ones I have made in the past. Makes me think that someone was thinking about it. I like it when that happens ;-)Well enough for now, just got out of the sauna and I'm ready for bed.Greg
Awwwww, jeez! I can give you the head admin guy's email if you want to try and get re-instated. I'll serve as a character witness if you want, LOL!
OK, since this is my thread, I can hijack it, right? I'll replicate most of the posting here. I wrote this up after someone, for the umpteenth time, was having trouble getting true 45° miters with their saw. The tests to verify 45° (and 90°) are really easy to do, but incredibly cumbersome to describe in words only. You probably already know these, but here they are anyway. [just noticed the eggnog comment -- wrote this on Dec. 27, ROFL.
*****************************************Most of us have probably had the experience of tuning up our miter saw or table saw, then making something like a frame and discovering it isn't as "tuned" as it needs to be. The following Cutting Tests provide the proof of the pudding, and are essential to being sure things are set right, especially if you're about to make a frame, or something else where any small errors accumulate and mess the piece up. The basic idea behind the tests is to make a cut, then rearrange the 2 pieces in such a way as to show and magnify any error that has been made. I'm using a miter saw for these pictures, but the same tests can be done on the table saw. All lumber used should be milled flat, straight and true. Forgive me for using a 2x4 for some of these tests, but I'd just tuned up my saws about 3 weeks ago and didn't have the heart to destroy any more hardwood. Also, the stock cannot move! or it will throw off your test. The first test pictured is to check that the Blade is 90° to the Table. Use a piece of wood that's fairly thick, as the height of the wood is what magnifies the error. Make an "X" where you're cutting, just to keep the pieces straight later, cross-cut the board, and then lay it down on a flat surface. Roll one side over (half-X faces down) and put the pieces back together. Any deviation from 90° to the table will be doubled in the gap that appears. View Image View Image ****************************************** The next test is to verify the Blade is 90° to the Fence. For this test, you want the board to be fairly wide, I like 3-4". This cedar board is much wider than that, overkill. Same deal -- X, cut, roll over, match up. It's helpful to butt the edges up against a straight flat surface such as a jointer fence. The error will show clearly. View Image View Image ****************************************** Now comes the fun stuff -- bevels and miters. To check for bevel, tilt the blade to your 45° stop, clamp the wood down solid, and cut the bevel. Then flip one side over to form a corner. Slide in a square and square the corner. Any deviation will show (doubled) in the joint (in pic, look toward the top of the joint, you can see the gap ). View Image View Image ****************************************** To check for the miter stops being accurate, cut a fairly wide board at 45° and make a corner again. This cedar is way wider than needed, it was just a handy piece. View Image No, I didn't throw my saw out of alignment for y'all. I simply put a folded up piece of paper on the stop, or over-rode the detents, to throw things off a half-degree or so. If anyone sees a gross error, please LMK -- I've had a little eggnog tonight, so might not be totally "here." Any questions, I'll try and answer too. Some day I'll redo the page with really nice wood.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Edited 4/2/2007 2:07 am by forestgirl
Hi Jamie; Thanks for the tutorial and the vote of confidence. Funny thing is as far as I know I never have even tried to join that forum.Perhaps they had to run off a fellow with my name before and I am SOL.Cheers Greg
They may be having a software glitch. As dedicated as they are to "numbers" (membership numbers) they'd probably want to know about it.
Your email address should be the database entry that would trigger any past history. forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
FG, I built the plywood M&T bench from FW 181 - it's pretty darn strong. I'm using the same technique to build a chop saw station now...
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ProjectsAndDesign/ProjectsAndDesignPDF.aspx?id=25186
How much did you spend? I have thought about building this bench with cut offs from projects. Did you use another top or build up like in article?
That one might be doable (though I doubt I could make it in a weekend). How much of the $250 was for the vise, I wonder? I have 3 vises, 2 little ones and one big one. Have to post pics of the big one, find out if you guys think it's restorable.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
See if you can find an old but sturdy office or teacher's desk. Often available for $10 down to hauling off at yard sales, Goodwill, office liquidations, or on trash day.
Features: Smooth, broad, flat top surface, plenty of heavy duty shallow to deep drawers, a kneehole to add shelves or pop benchtop tools. Depending on your height, you might need to add skids or feet extensions to get it all up to a comfortable working height. If the top is trashed or metal, make a slip cover from plywood, edged in lumber or more plywood.
J, as you know I was in a press in the new digs and needed a space to work. Soutions-some require a few bucks but will move forward in various ways- 1- a "quickie" the cheapo hardwood bench at home despot, well glued and screwed with the back splash screwed into the top with #12's then screwed to all matching studs behind it with #12's. Then used one of the drawers, tossed the other under the bench and mounted a Wilton 4x7 with carriage bolts and mdf spacers. cheap, fast solid "hardwood" and a place to work.
2- the intermediate bench. Bought a factory top at the PA. ww show from the guy selling the adjustable height benches $225.(he didn't want to take it home again) Sat it on rocklers legs and mounted a record 53 and will mount the LV twin at the tail end. Heavy and rock solid . Will make two sled bases and stringers with barrel bolts later. 29x60x2¼. The rockler stuff will become an assembly table.
These were a BIG asset in getting stuff done in the 3/4 weeks at a time that I spend there prior to move in. If these are not your cup of Assam(Irish breakfast tea) then Sarge's looks really super.
BTW. I just sold my wallet to the "new" AT&T Bell South (and I thought Verizon was bad) for a 1.5 dsl line and I got my ID @ ATT, so I guess I have to buy the shop PC on this trip- live I expect by 4/15. I am outta here in the AM. All the best, Paddy
I would like to support the use of a "fire resistant" 1 and 3/4 thick hardwood door as a top of a workbench. I got mine from the hospital for 5 dollars during one of their recurrent alterations. It is 42 inches wide and 84 inches long.Every so often I clean it by beltsanding and splashing a few coats of polyurethane. It protrudes on all four sides from the base so the use of clamps is easy. One wood block underneath on each side prevents shifting. The base is made by four metal cabinets, on wheels, each having 5 drawers. It has served me well.
How about John White's bench? There's a lot of talk about it right here.
I'm thinking you meant that message for me? Well, John's bench would certainly solve the quandry of what to do with my pipe clamps, since I never use them! I'm looking at the video right now. Thanks!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Yes, meant for you. I, too, have a pile of pipe clamps which I purchased some years ago with the idea of building that bench. Maybe, based upon your valued opinion and advice, I'll finally get around to it!
I'm torn between John's bench and a simpler one. Just got back from Lumbermen's, can't figure out how John got such good lumber using construction stuff. Wondering what the reality is going to be if I try. Priced out vertical grain fir -- OUCH!!! My brain doesn't count that high.
He said he sawed "clear sections from the center of 2x10's and 2x12's." I thought the centers were the worst parts, so I'm confused.
Do you have the plan there in front of you? How wide is that center stretcher. 2x8? And the wide upright - also 2x8? The planing beam looks like a 2x6 to my eye. Of to look at the video again.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
"He said he sawed "clear sections from the center of 2x10's and 2x12's." I thought the centers were the worst parts, so I'm confused."FG-I'm sure he didn't mean the absolute center, with the pith and all. Anything close to the center will have pretty much vertical grain. Last time I looked in my lumberyard (I'm in pine territory, not Douglas fir) virtually all of the 2x12s would have passed for quartersawn.
FG, as the saying goes, I know where they are. Now if I can just figure out where I put them...
Ummmmm, this is a bad thing. They're not where I knew they were. They aren't with work-bench stuff (you might ask where was it that they were supposed to be if not with workbench stuff, but that wouldn't be fair...). I've only managaged to save them for seven or eight years, I'm sure they're around here somewhere - is there a noble soul out there who could/would help us out?
FG,
I'm new to woodworking, so I need many things ($$$$). I saw this workbench, which looks quick, easy, and cheap.I hope to be starting on this in a couple of weeks. I, like many who posted, thought I to use this now, and tackle a real bench later. Hope the atachment works properly.
Thanks! The attachment worked fine. That looks like a definitely candidate, but I'm not sure about the drawers. I have this intuitive feeling that where they're positioned they might create some kind of conflict. Given I've not yet had a "real bench" that may be hogwash, but gotta think about it a bit.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
FG,
I agree about the drawers; I was simply going to leave them out. It appears they may get in the way of clamping.
Best of luck on your workbench
RabbetRun,
I have one good size drawer under the bench top and it is invaluable. It holds all those things that don't have a decent place...candle, protracor, digital measurment devise, wheel marking guage and extra dogs for holding circles in bench. Once in a while a candy bar can be found in the drawer also...
Sometimes I find candy bars too -- if a mouse doesn't get it first, LOL. Actually, food gets put in a sealed jar, should I leave any out there.
I just don't like the 3-drawers-across approach. Have to think about drawers, how big, where to put them. I think this first bench will have a low shelf, and drawers might be added later.
Good to hear from you, BG!!!!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Problem with drawers is, no matter which one you place your clamps in front of, that's the one with something in it you need! LOL. I'd lean toward a 3-high bank of drawers at one end or something.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
I built that workbench about a year and a half ago as my very first woodworking project. it took a few weekends, but the plans are very detailed and easy to follow. I didn't have a solid-core door handy, so I built the top by laminating two pieces of three-quarter-inch plywood and covering the seam with some softwood facing. As for the drawers, I built them and a sliding tray in one of them as a way of teaching myself how to do dovetails, figuring if they weren't perfect no one would see them but me. When building the top, I made sure there was enough overhang at the front of the bench so that with the drawers closed, I could easily clamp things to the top without any interference. You just need to remember to get what you need out of the drawers before you start clamping!As I newbie, I don't have much to compare this bench to, but I think it's a very good first workbench.. It's been pretty solid and effective.
nb,
Thanks for your input on the bench; I'm glad to hear from someone who has used it. I am planning to use a plywood and mdf "sandwich" for the top (the mdf to give it some weight). I plan to trim the edges with scrap hardwood. I'm going to leave out the drawers for now, even though (as others have posted) they can be very handy. I can always add them later. Besides, what would I do will all that time I spend looking for my tools?
rabbet
Rabbet, I like your thinking. The extra thickness of your top will improve it; two sheets of three-quarter-inch ply isn't quite thick enough at times. I also drilled a few dog holes in my top, which have made huge difference. Your extra thickness will particularly improve the gripping power of holdfasts, if you use them.The other thing I like about the bench is that you can break it down easily if you need to move it, as I will need to do soon. Have fun with it.
I'd like to issue a little warning to people using mdf as a benchtop, especially if you edge it. I once made a top with 4 layers of mdf, and edged it with plywood glued to the top and bottom sheets, in order to form a torsion box. It was very heavy, and quite stiff, but not nearly as stiff as I thought it would be. The worst problem came when summer came around, which in these parts is quite humid relative to winter. The mdf swelled, except where it was restrained by the edging, and my benchtop looked like a flattish pillow. The 60" x 18" top was 1/8 thicker in the middle! Mdf moves with humidity, despite what many say - how could it not?
I'm building my own bench right now. Looking at many designs it occured to me that a great deal of effort is spent on massive mortises and tenons to stop racking. Unfortunately a square is not the shape to resist racking! In my design(which I hope works) I have used two conventional end frames joined by a vertical 2' by 4' sheet edged with 1 x 2. This sheet forms a very effective brace against racking and also is a very deep girder supporting the boards of the top, so they don't have to be so thick.
I have two small, cheap face vices. I made a tail vise from them by joining the fixed faces with a single long jaw. The movable jaw (the same length) is only attached to the left vise. Much of the time I keep the RH vise well open and just use the left, but I can quickly slide the RH vise closed on its end of the moving jaw and easily clamp wide boards. It's amazingly effective, if I say so myself, and cost about $50 CDN.
Edited 4/4/2007 3:09 pm ET by JulianBE
Julian,
You've given me some food for thought regarding the MDF. An 1/8 of an inch in the middle certainly will not do. I wonder if a coat or two of shellac (and several on the edges) would help seal it. I live in VA; I know it is not the deep south, but it is hazy, hot, humid, and a hundred for days on end in August (no AC in the garage).
I've seen several benches with end and/or back frames to help with the racking. I assume a bank of drawers attached to the frame performs the same function.
I curious as to just how the tail vise you described looks. I'm not sure I understood how that is set up. It sounds like a great idea. Do you have a pic?
Best of luck on your real bench!
Rabbet
John, wherein might I get a copy of the article re your bench which I've saved, in a safe place since it was published and which I can't find at the moment. (I did, however, find a receipt from Kodak for the service of my old Retina Reflex III, along with a few other odd and forgotten items.)
Two corporately correct possibilities: call Taunton's customer service and order the issue if they still have it in stock, or subscribe to our online version of Fine Woodworking which will give you access to almost all of the articles since issue #1.
The "improper" suggestion would be to ask somebody on the Knot's site to photocopy the article and send it to you, but you didn't hear me suggest that.
John W.
This was just sent to me by the internet FWW folks:
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Edited 4/5/2007 10:47 am ET by JohnWW
Neither did we...
John, I'm thinking about combining the front planing rail of your bench with one of the other "simple bench" plans of the others. Haven't decided for sure yet, but a question for you. It has been suggested that the old wooden vise pictured in the other thread would not fit in a bench of my size limits (6' wide x 30" deep). Do you agree? That vise measures ~15" front to back, not counting the handle.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Thank you, John. I loved your 'answer' - thus far there have been no takers, which should put the corp types at rest. ;-)
I'll try to get a picture, but don't hold your breath. Meanwhile:
Imagine two small metal face vices. Mine are Record clones, jaws about 7" wide or so, with quick releases. Imagine they are both mounted conventionally to the bench, say about 18" apart. Now, the FIXED, or rear jaw is one piece of wood from the left side of the left vice to the right side of the right vice. It's attached to BOTH vices. The MOVABLE, or front jaw is the same size, but it's only attached to ONE vice (left on mine). If you attach it to both then you always have to keep both vices opened exactly the same amount, or make a fancy arrangement for tapered pieces.
Now if I want to clamp a wide board vertically: Usually the right vice is open, say 4", not doing anything. I take the board and put it between the jaws between the vices, and lightly clamp it with the left vice, then bring up the right vice to contact its end of the jaw and tighten them both up. It's quicker to do than to describe.
Installation: Connect the two vices with the fixed jaw and then attach them to the bench as a unit, otherwise I found it very difficult to get them exactly lined up!
I found almost all I ever wanted to do with a vice was clamp wood vertically, which metal face vices are not good at, especially cheap clones. I've discovered I like an unobstructed bench front, jointing long boards with hook on the front, or planing to a stop on top, so I mounted my two vices on the end of my bench. I hope this helps. I'll try to post a picture soon.
Edited 4/7/2007 11:24 am ET by JulianBE
Ah....I think I got the visual now! Thank you for the detailed description. I look forward to the pics, when you get time. Will use the next couple of weeks to finalize "plans" for the bench.
Happy Easter,
Rabbet
I second the basic work bench plans.
I've built three or four of these in various sizes and they work great.
Solid and easy to build in a few hours.
Russ
FG,
So, what did you do for a bench? It's been 3 1/2 months now. You probably made a Tage Frid, huh? You were just sandbagging us with the "quick and dirty" stuff, weren't ya! Post a picture.
Cheers,
Randy
Lumber for the bench still stacked, didn't know anyone was tracking the days. In addition to a couple of projects lined up in front, family obligations have increased (child care for step-daughter; death in family). Still planning on John White's Newfangled Bench. Frid's got nothin' on him, LOL!
Note the time, 4:26 a.m. Hubby woke me up to inform me it's raining hard outside. Imagine that, in the Great NW. Dam*, thought it wasn't supposed to rain until Wed., planer outside (but under plastic, thank heavens, just had to make sure it was well anchored). Inca's under the eve's of the garage, and tarped. Fired up the computer to see how long this dad-blasted precip is supposed to last.
forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Edited 7/17/2007 10:25 am by forestgirl
Wow, lady, you deserve a medal for getting ANY woodwork done under those conditions! Sorry to hear about the death in your family. All of us out here will be looking forward to seeing a picture of your spiffy new bench whenever you get it done. I just ran across the strand yesterday, and noticed the date. Thought I'd razz you a bit, in a friendly sort of way. I assumed that you had made some progress on it, but the strand sort of petered out without any resolution. Like most folks with an interest in woodworking, benches and bench paraphernalia are a bit of a fascination for me. Any strand that has "bench" in the title catches my eye. Well, keep us posted.
Regards,
Randy
A couple things came up early. A friend offered me 2 paying projects I couldn't refuse (why would I, LOL??). Of course, they took 3x longer than expected. Then a trip to visit relatives. But more than anything, the lumber I picked out had a couple boards that were way-the-heck higher in moisture content than their brethern, so they all got stickered and stacked on the floor. Then all that other stuff started rolling in.
FIL passed away about 3 weeks ago, at the age of 102! Meant my husband had to make 3 or 4 trips (lost count) in as many weeks, and now we have two more trips in the next week to make. Just a bit overwhelming, but we'll get there.... Thanks for the encouragement!forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
Forestgirl,
In post 3 I said use plenty of triangulation, a better term is diagonals. Another reply had pics of his cheap, fast but very functional bench.
Pete
Jamie, if you have the means to do mortice and tenons easily here is a quick and easy bench which is knock down, sturdy and can have wheels later if you want an assembly table:
Use 4x11/2's or 4x1's to make two long frames and two short frames all the same height, mortice and tenons glued.The short frames are bolted to the long frames-located by shallow groove, say 1/4''. Bolts are coah head- nuts on inside.Each leg is now a tee-very rigid structure. Attach the mdf or ply top by z clips or what suits you. Two hour job, including the head scratching.
You can sort of see it in the picture-the one with a blanket.
Thanks, Philip! Of course, I know you posted that picture to make me jealous of all the space. ROFL!! I'm still ruminating. I was supposed to go to Seattle yesterday to cruise the salvage stores, but our refrigerator died and I had to stay home to pack up thawing food and schlep (sp?) it to a friend's freezer, clean up the mess, etc., etc. No shop time.
Am thinking about taking the planing-ledge from John's plan and incorporating it into the plywood plans posted above, or your design. I took pictures of my big vise the other day, will post and see if you guys think it's restorable and will tell me how to install it.forestgirl -- you can take the girl out of the forest, but you can't take the forest out of the girl ;-)
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