I am new to this forum but have found it to be really informative. My question regards the best use for my oak trees that I harvest. I have about 150 acres of mixed old growth hardwood in SC. I only harvest trees that are in trouble. Lightening strikes, hurricane blowovers etc. This winter I had to harvest a large straight white oak and several red oaks that have finally titled over due to recent close calls by hurricanes moving up the coast in recent years. We live on the Pee Dee river basin and the increased rains and wind will cause them just to fall over like chess pieces. I bought a Granberg 36″ chainsaw mill which does a great job of slabbing up the tree on the spot without bringing in a skidder. That way the tree can be dismantled without creating a large enviromental footprint.
Sometimes I will cant the trunk and slab it in 4 or 5 inch think pieces 8′ to 12′ long. I’m building a drying shed so it can cure for a couple of years. Here’s my question. I would like to use this wood for flooring for my home and riverhouse. I would prefer to have these slabs converted to T&G. Should I keep these slabs at 5″ thick so that after milling I will end up with 4.5 t&g? Some of these planks are 30″ wide and it seems a shame to whittle them down but sounds like putting down planks is asking for trouble. I am going to attempt some quarter sawn cuts on some of these trees. Any old pros got any suggestions?
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I have limited experience in milling lumber, however; it sounds like (unless you're up on the piedmont) you're working with southern oak species i.e. southern red oak, laurel oak, water oak, swamp chestnut oak and whatever grows over there. which can "move" a lot with humidity changes. Either case, quarter sawing the logs is going to yield a much better product for flooring, especially if you're river house is subject to periods when it isn't being dried out by an ac unit during periods of non-use. The chainsaw mill is ok to get the slabs small enough to get out of the woods, but a bandsaw mill is going to be a lot better to cut the boards themselves. You'll save a lot of good wood from becoming sawdust with such a mill. Quite a few folks buy these mills to cut boards for a house and then sell the mill. A lot of homebuilding magazines advertise used band saw mills. If you know what the wood is going to be used for then you can really save a lot of waste by cutting it to near its final dimensions before drying. The shorter the boards then the less the thickness will be lost to bending (because your drying boards are only 4 - 6 feet long for your floor strips), likewise, the narrower your boards the less will be lost to warping (3" wide planks for flooring). I don't have enough experience with the southern oaks to know how much they're going to bend and warp, but you want to make sure you leave enough wood to take this out when they are dry and your ready to mill them into your final product. Use good stickers (I like dried red cedar but don't know if that's available for you). There's got to be a small (pecker) mill around there somewhere you can badger about this.
Thanks Truejoint, for your response. I think you make some excellent points. I actually have a sawmill just down the road that an old fellow runs occasionally. It's an old rotary mill. There are a couple of Bandsaw mills nearby too and I intend to contact them for thier pricing. Thanks again.
Hi, you may want to ask this on the woodweb. There is a heading Sawing and Drying. Most are sawyers full and part time.best of luck
Ron http://www.woodweb.com/cgi-bin/forums/sawdry.pl
First you should coat the ends to stop them from checking. If you are going to cut it into flooring, you should do that asap. Oak is hard to dry in anything over 2" thick without lots of checking, so trying to dry large slabs will be ruining a lot of good wood. If you can have it QS, you will have a floor that is twice as stable as plain-sawn.
Here is a link for finding a sawyer, if the others don't work out.http://www.woodweb.com/Resources/RSSDGsawyers.htmlHere is a link to Scott Branburry's site showing how he goes about QSing large trees.http://www.scottbanbury.com/quartersawing.html
Edited 1/30/2007 5:43 pm by KeithNewton
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