Replies

1. 
   terrylee86 | May 03, 2006 03:03pm | #1

   Try the new Porter-Cable jig set.  It's fairly inexpensive, produces clean dovetails, is easy to use and come with the bits you need to get started.  The instruction manual is well written and the initial setup is pretty straight forward.  I bought the deluxe set because it contained a set of fingers to make dovetails that resemble handcut.  Have not tried that setup yet.  I have an OMNIJIG and I like this one a little better.  Holds your material better. Hope this helps  Forgot the price $ 129 about

   
   

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   Edited 5/3/2006 8:04 am ET by terrylee86

2. 
   Napie | May 03, 2006 05:29pm | #2

   Based on the parameters you have given; easy to use, uncomplicated, low cost, I would go for a nice dovetail saw, see the review a couple issues ago in FWW, and a good set of bevel edge chisels, (note: most of these can be found at flea markets and refurbished at little cost).  Learn to sharpen them, then watch Frank Klausz’s DVD, and cut about a hundred practice joints and you are good to go.

    

   If you must do the power tool route, go with the Keller, I built over 400 blanket chests with one, (real production runs), it is the BEST on the market.

    

   If you must have variable spacing, see the first method above, no limits on spacing, size etc.

1. 
   Terry1940 | May 03, 2006 06:30pm | #3

   Keller is the best but the results are not as "hand made" in appearance as some of the adjustable (and harder to use) jigs. I suggest Tadj Freid's method using a bandsaw with a fair amount of chisel work. Its in the Fine Woodworking archives somewhere-Its as fast as most of the jigs for small runs. The Keller is best for production runs. Can someone help with the location of the literature?

1. 
   dgreen | May 03, 2006 06:46pm | #4

   Bandsawn Dovetails
   Tilt, saw and chop
   Tage Frid
   December 1983
   Joinery | Dovetails
   Tools | Bandsaws

1. 
   Terry1940 | May 04, 2006 03:59pm | #9

   Thanks-I hope others will note that, the technique has been a great help.

2. 
   loucarabasi | May 04, 2006 01:57am | #6

   Napie, Thanks for the advice but I do this for a living and cant spend to much time on drawers.

   -Lou

1. 
   Napie | May 04, 2006 06:24am | #8

   So did I, for most drawer runs I could do it by hand faster than setting up a jig.  It's really not that hard. 

3. 
   BarryO | May 03, 2006 07:23pm | #5

   -- how wide are the joints you want to do?  <12" (e.g., drawers), <24" (e.g., blanket chests), or >24"?

   -- do you want to do just half-blinds (for drawers), or full DT's as well?

   -- variable-spaced or fixed tails?

1. 
   loucarabasi | May 04, 2006 02:05am | #7

   BarrtO, Half blind for drawers.

   Thanks for the advice,

   Lou

1. 
   BarryO | May 04, 2006 07:56pm | #11

   In that case I'd go for the 16" PC 5116 Omnijg.  Rugged, straightforward.  A bit pricey, though.

   If you want to go cheaper, PC introduced a 12" model 4210.  But to be honest, the pictures don't look that much different than the host of inexpensive Chinese 12" jigs from places like Shop Fox, Rockler, Harbor Freight, etc. ('haven't seen it in person).  If you want to try that route, might as well try HF as they are the cheapest.

4. 
   DougU | May 04, 2006 07:16pm | #10

   Lou

   The omni jig once set up will give you good results.

   Dont know how much your planning on spending but you can find them on ebay once in a while at decent prices.

   I do some hand cut dovetails but if I'm building a set of kitchen cabinets I cant waste the time, I hit the omnijig.

   I can usually do 25 to 30 drawers in one day, assembled, maybe if I practiced for the next 10 years I would be able to hand cut them that fast but I dont have that much time for the practice! 

   Doug