Replies

1. 
   daverichards | Dec 06, 2021 10:14am | #1

   If it is teak, the best finish is probably no finish. Same as would be used on a teak boat deck.

2. 
   jharveyb | Dec 06, 2021 10:31am | #2

   The principle here is the same as for outdoor furniture, minus the UV protection. I think you want a water-resistant finish, to reduce the water intake each shower, but also one that breathes so that any water that gets in can escape, rather than being trapped. Surface finishes like polyurethane or spar varnish tend to trap water, leading to premature failure. Penetrating oil finishes are probably your best bet.

3. 
   mikaol | Dec 06, 2021 10:56am | #3

   Watco makes a teak oil. Wet sanding with the oil should suffice nicely.
   Mikaol

4. 
   pantalones868 | Dec 06, 2021 03:27pm | #4

   It ain't the water it's the soap scum.....Tile?

5. 
   user-1118538293 | Dec 06, 2021 04:40pm | #5

   What about the type of finish used on classic wooden boats? I am thinking epoxy, or some sort of conversation varnish. Almost certain to be pretty glossy, but you can always rub it down to whatever level of shine you want.

6. 
   gulfstar | Dec 06, 2021 06:46pm | #6

   If it is teak it needs to be wiped down with acetone or alcool just prior to varnishing. The first coats need to be thinned down and proper sanding between coats , 5 coats should do it ; https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/product/product-detail/4123

7. 
   EdWeber | Dec 06, 2021 07:08pm | #7

   If it is Teak, You can do what ever you want, from no finish to gloss and everything in between. Teak on it's own doesn't get slippery when wet nut add in soap or shampoo and you can still have a slippery condition. I recommend using an oil of some type to penetrate but not everything that says "Teak" oil is anything more than danish oil in most ways.
   https://www.popularwoodworking.com/flexner-on-finishing-woodworking-blogs/teak-oil-what-is-it/

8. 
   pantalones868 | Dec 06, 2021 08:39pm | #8

   Personally I wouldn't do it, but if I was to do it I would epoxy the whole thing with wood resin epoxy, particularly the feet and any end grain. While the epoxy is still wet( measured in days for Smiths, which is supplied with directions) I would then coat the stool with either Tonkinois or Epiphanes varnish . 6 coats of Tonkinois or 10 coats of Epiphanes, this is a two week project! It will start out shiny....

9. 
   john_c2 | Dec 07, 2021 12:44am | #9

   I'm not sure I'd want to use your stool. I guess it's needed in the bath/shower by someone who needs to sit while bathing/showering? Compare your wooden stool to one that is made for the shower. It's going to be aluminum and plastic. But it's also going to have a much different footprint. Those are designed for people with mobility issues.

   I don't see a woodenstool having the same stability as one built for the purpose. Those are designed to fit very specific codes and regulations, which the wooden one does not. There are serious safety concerns there. And probably insurance and liability issues too.

   Buy the best aluminum and plastic shower seat you can find, use it for 5 minutes while showering, then close the shower curtain so you don't see it for the rest of the day.

10. 
    pantalones868 | Dec 07, 2021 02:56am | #10

    Theres nothing wrong with a wooden object being subjected to water. I mean, there's boats and barrels. But there are specific problems you'll need to overcome. Soap and water is a pretty good lubricant, so no slip feet. The floor of a shower slopes to the drain ,at least you hope so. You'll have to compensate for that. 3 feet work better than 4 on uneven ground. There is soap scum and mold so cleaning is going to be a constant chore. A smooth hard finish is going to be easier to maintain I would think but will be subject to spotting daily.
    What you make it out of matters. Some say teak but I would think cedar or redwood might work pretty well. Jointery should be pretty exact and done in such a way that your not dependent on glue not failing. Pinned or mechanically fastened joints might be called for. Tile is pretty tough stuff but can damage easily getting the wrong pressure on a small area. You could stomp all day with your Dr. Martin's and get no damage but one little high heel hitting the edge could chip or break a tile. Same goes for an enamel tub. So the design would want to spread the weight and not have too narrow ends on the feet.
    Why you want to do this is really no one's business. It's your house and your ass if things don't work out. There's no reason that it has to be inherently unsafe properly constructed.

11. 
    rob_ss | Dec 07, 2021 03:57am | #11

    I agree with the no finish perspective, whatever wood is going to be used. Film finishes are all very well until they inevitably start to peel, so if finish were to be desired, probably a good soak in paraffin followed by buffing with beeswax, just like a cutting board might be a good option.

    Wood can be nice in such circumstances, so I'd just use as is. It will take a very, very long time to rot indoors, especially if it is allowed to dry out between uses.

    I have never made such an item, but would probably use pinned/wedged joinery and no glue; or polyurethane glue. Either way, the joinery needs to be very well fitted so that it will hold up regardless of glue integrity.