Replies

1. 
   Westchester | Jan 26, 2010 03:21pm | #1

   2 coats of a clear poly would be OK -

   Good brushing technique is important - light sand between coats with a black paper - 400 grit- dust - recoat - and final paste wax.

   SA

2. 
   SteveSchoene | Jan 26, 2010 10:12pm | #2

   I would recommend using varnish as a wipe on, unless you want to fill the pores of the oak. The thickness of brushing strength varnish still won't fill the open pores, but just sags into them leaving what to me looks like a cheaper looking finish. The thinner wiping varnish goes into the open pores more "crisply" leaving a more natural look. It will take more coats to build a protective film.--About three wipe on coats is equivalent to one brushed on coat.

   You can "bunch" the wipe on coats--applying them in groups of about three, spaced only far enough apart so that the finish isn't tacky--perhaps just a couple of hours apart. Then after each set, it should have overnight curing before the next set can be applied. Salnd between sets with 320 grit--no finer that 400 grit. You don't need to sand between coats within a set.

1. 
   Recruiter | Jan 27, 2010 09:19am | #3

   I had considered a poly for this project, but I thought it may give too much of a "plastic" look. Thought also about varnish. Was going to do a brush-on varnish. Not too familiar with a wipe on varnish. Most of the wipe on work I do is with shallac. Any particular wipe on varnish recommendations, or should I simply take a brush on, and thin it down? Thanks.

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Jan 27, 2010 10:10am | #4

   No problem with thinning down any varnish. There are lighter colored varnishes--namely Pratt & Lambert 38 or Cabot VArnsih (8000 series), and there are darker varnishes such as Waterlox (Original/Sealer semigloss comes at wiping consistency, Gloss and Satin could use a bit of thinning for wiping, also Behlen Rockhard is a high quality varnish.