I just finished building a nice workbench and have been debating on what finish to put on it. I was hoping to get some guidance from the forum. Heard Waterlox was an option but have not been exposed to it. My bench is made of solid maple
Can anyone suggest finishes for my bench and how to apply those?
Thank you
Guillermo
Replies
I think quite a few people leave theirs unfinished. I used a few light coats of wipe on poly primarily for its abrasion resistance and to aid in clean up.
Regard it as just as desirable to build a chicken house as to build a cathedral.
Frank Lloyd Wright
I just finished my workbench and I too wiped on about three coats of poly. I also built a router table and I am thinking of leaving it unfinished at least for now.
wm
I too have a solid maple bench. I have left the top unfinished but did finish the base with linseed oil. This was recomended to me to leave the top unfinished so that later re-flattening the bench top might be easier.
John
Still working on the drawers on my bench, but the maple top is done and already in use. After digging through this forum's archives, as well as the two Taunton books, I decided to go with a Watco 'Natural' finish, followed with paste wax. The Watco really brought out the grain--especially on the skirt--and the paste wax has already protected it from the glue and the MinWax stain I should have been a little more careful with.
I used two or three coats of Shellac (2 lb cut) on my bench. As the surface wears, the Shellac can be renewed. I chose Shellac as I work as traditionally as possible and it's use as a workbench finish is historically founded. Just another way to connect with the past.
As with any finish, apply equal amounts to the top and bottom to equalize moisture exchange with your shop's environment.
A side note: I spent several hours at Frank Klausz' workbench at the Woodworks show last fall. He used Waterlox on that bench, topped with Butcher's paste wax.
Forgive me for asking such a basic question, but what exactly is a 2 lb. cut or a 3 lb cut.
I see it mentioned quite a bit, but no explanation or definition.
Thanks
> Forgive me for asking such a basic question, but what exactly is a 2 lb. cut or a 3 lb cut.>I see it mentioned quite a bit, but no explanation or definition.No problem; we were all there once. That is the number of pounds of shellac dissolved in one gallon of solvent (alcohol). A 2 lb. cut contains approximately 21% shellac solids; a 3 lb. cut contains approximately 29%.If you don't care to mix your own, Zinsser (http://www.zinsser.com) offers several ready to use Shellacs and a fairly nice French Polish (no; I don't own Zinsser stock).Although lacquers and varnishes may be more resilient, I like the traditional aspect of working with Shellac.I hope this helps. Good luck.
Thank you for the information as I intend experimenting with shellac. Right now I use only tung oil with wax finish.
It's time to broaden my horizons and finishes.
Best Regards
I use Watco and Butchers Wax on the work-benches. Makes things easy when the time comes to re-flatten the top with a hand-plane. I use 3 coats of poly on my assembly table tops and paint the bases with 3 coats of porch and floor paint.
I will add that one of the nicest WB's I have seen in the Atlanta area is that of Mr. Tom Wilkerson. Top made from the re-covered lane from a bowling alley. Tom uses the Waterlox on his as a lot of his furniture that has won prizes at the Atlanta WW Shows. I can't argue with the success that has come off that Waterlox finish. :>)
Best of luck with your decision...
SARGE.. g-47
A film finish (lacquer, shellac, varnish, poly varnish) is not the way to go. A workbench is going to get dinged and film finishes will crack or craze or be otherwise damaged. Once a film finish is penetrated, it looses its effectiveness and adjacent areas begin to fail. I much favor a "in the wood finish". Here are two that lots of folks find effective.
First, is an mineral oil and wax finish. Yes, similar to the one used for cutting boards and butcher blocks. Sand the surface to 180 grit. Mix paraffin or bees wax into heated mineral oil. The ratio is not critical but about 5-6 parts of mineral oil heated in a double boiler with one part paraffin or beeswax shaved in. Apply this mixture to the benchtop liberally and allow to set overnight. Do it again the next day and again the following day if the top continues to absorb it. After a final overnight, lightly scrape off any excess wax and buff. This finish will minimize the absorbsion of any water and you can use a damp rag to wipe up any glue excess. Dried glue will pop right off the surface. Renewal or repair is easy. Just use a scraper to remove and hardened stuff, wipe down with mineral spirits using a 3/0 steel wool pad, wipe off the gung and apply another coat of mineral oil/wax mixture.
My personal preference is for an oil/varnish mixture treatment. Either use Minwax Tung Oil Finish, Minwax Antique oil or a homebrew of equal parts of boiled linseed oil, your favorite varnish or poly varnish and mineral spirits. Sand the benchtop up to 180 grit. Apply the mixture heavily and keep it wet for 15-30 minutes. Wipe off any excess completely. Let it dry overnight and the next day, apply another coat using 4/0 steel wool. Let it set and then wipe off any excess. Let this dry 48-72 hours. Apply a coat of furniture paste wax and you're done. This treatment is somewhat more protective than the wax and mineral oil as the varnish component adds some protection from not only water both some other chemicals also. The waxing makes the surface a little more impervious to water so you can wipe up any liquid adhesive. It also allows hardened wax to be scraped off. Repair and renewal is easy. Just go throught the same scraping, wiping down with mineral spirits and reapplication of the BLO/varnish/mineral spirits mixture and an application of paste wax.
Both of the above treatments are quite protective but are easy to maintain and renew. They do not fail when the surface takes a ding.
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Bare wood. A bench top should have no finish at all, the friction makes holding the work better. It will have to be flatened at least one a year, so no finish makes that easier. You can draw on it with a pencil anytime and just scrape the sketch off.
There was an article on this in one of the WW mags - FWW or PWW maybe - in the last year or so wher they mixed up several finishes and tested them for various properties. Linseed oil with wax and maybe some varnish in different combinations mostly from what I remember. Someone else here may remember greater detail.
As for my bench, I use boiled linseed oil. It gives the wood some slight protection from moisture, glue, etc., doesn't interfere with wood being worked or drastically change the friction coefficient, and is eaily renewed. It also gives wood and its grain a nice look.
As for my bench, I use boiled linseed oil. It gives the wood some slight protection from moisture, glue, etc., doesn't interfere with wood being worked or drastically change the friction coefficient, and is eaily renewed. It also gives wood and its grain a nice look.
Exactly my thinking and method. Sand lightly and slather on a coat of BLO.
-Chuck
Thank you for your suggestions. I will research the options and post a picture as soon as I finish the bench. As for leaving it bare, I would like some (even if itis minimal) protection against glue, stains, etc.
Thank you again for everybody's input.
Guillermo
Found the article I was remembering. It was from the Fall issue of Woodworking. Here's a scan for those interested:
I used a wipe on poly on mine, it makes the glue a little easier to clean off.
Troy
GBez,
I am totally surprised that no one answered your question correctly, considering the purpose of a workbench (or is that work bench?).
The best finish on a workbench is any finished project you have done. A nice piece of furniture you have finished for the loyl, or a toy you have finished for a child, or any other project you have finished.
Enjoy your workbench. I have to get started building one. Of course that is as soon as I finish a cradle for my son and daughter-in-law, and the 4th large shelf unit for my daughter and son-in-law, etc., etc., etc.
Alan - planesaw
In Lon Schleining's (sp) book, The Workbench Book, he suggests a Turpentine and Varnish blend. I tried it on some outfeed table bases and it looked pretty good. It's pretty sticky, similar to a thick varnish, so I wonder if I had too little Turpentine. However, it really brought out the grain and looks great. Applied well, too, like a Danish Oil.
Anyone tried this one with success? Failure?
I got the idea of using Waterlox original, when I saw that Frank Klauz used it on his bench. Rubbing in two coats and then a last coat brushed on a bit thicker. A bit of Johnson's paste wax and it's protected from glue sticking too.
I just use Original Waterlox with no wax, it protects but allows things to be clamped without sliding around. After all, Frank Klausz uses it.
I left mine unfinished. It is not maple - I used southern yellow pine. But it is easy to scrape/sand off glue drips. I wanted a little friction and thought a finish would reduce that. Also I scribble notes, measurements on it and can easily take them off.
I totally agree with Napie and jfsksa. I completed my split top Roubo 3 months ago and did not finish the top which is 4" thick ash. In fact, after getting it dead flat with my scrub, jack, and jointer planes, I even skipped the smoother plane and scrapers. The "fuzzy" top is a great surface for every manner of work-holding and any other imaginable operation (I don't use this bench for glue-ups or finishing), and is actually quite attractive and sensuous to the feel. I did finish the rest of the bench with 3 coats of Tried and True Varnish Oil which accentuated the contrast between the ash and the sipo I used for chop, sliding deadman, and endcap.
I used BLO on all surfaces. My underpinnings are construction grade pine and the top is hard maple. Since I made it 12 years ago I've trued the top up with my #7. The finish made no difference.
If your wood already has character I'd go with tung oil. It protects as much as varnish if you put on enough coats. It also resists stains and water much more than linseed. For new wood, I like Tried and True varnish oil mixed with tung oil (60-40) because it gives the wood character (deep, rich tones) and it's also quite durable, especially with the tung mixed in.
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The O.P. built his bench in 2006.
I built mats monster workbench and he used boiled linseed oil so that’s what I used and it worked out great. Cheers
Nothing beats bare wood.
Bare wood! Gives a good grip and easy to clean with a card scrapper.
I have to admit I finished the top of my first bench only to end up scraping it all off.
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