Replies

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Sep 28, 2007 08:42pm | #1

   I hate to say it, but the finishing schedule in the article doesn't make a whole lot of sense without several assumptions.  I'd say the editors blew it. 

   First, what is oil-based sealer?  Perhaps he means some kind of sanding sealer, but the same language could also apply to any oil-based top coat since any varnish would act as a sealer.  Presumably it built a film, since he sanded between coats. 

   Then it says he put on two coats of tung oil.  But that isn't likely to be true.  More likely he put on two coats of a Tung Oil Finish that was likely actually a wiping varnish.  Formby's is such a formulation.  If he really used pure tung oil, that would give a soft, possibly even gummy, finish on top of the sealer.  True oils need to be applied directly to bare wood so they penetrate and, importantly, have all excess wiped off the surface.  Pure tung oil takes a long time to cure so that a couple of days would be needed between coats, and 4-5 coats would be needed.  And, it still would have only minimal protection.

   If I put any finish on it I would likely use shellac.  Much faster to apply one or two quick coats, and sanding between coats isn't needed.  (There are lots of surfaces to be sanded.)     

    

1. 
   user-83153 | Oct 01, 2007 02:33am | #3

   I notice that happens quite often. I have yet to find a woodworking magazine that has much of a clue about finishing. They are filled with finishing schedules that either make no sense or are so misleading as to what products are used that for the most part they are useless.

   Then everyone talks about what a great mystery finishing is to woodworkers, of course it is they get bombarded with contradictory and false information.

   I just remembered that Bob Flexner writes for one of the popular mags (popular woodworking?). He is the exception to the rule. Any woodworker who is going to finish their own work should consider his book mandatory reading.

1. 
   SteveSchoene | Oct 01, 2007 03:12am | #4

   What's worse the problem may not have arisen with the author of the article.  It could be some important words were left out in the interest of brevity, or a particular product name was changed to what was thought by some editor to be the generic equivalent. 

2. 
   peter28 | Oct 02, 2007 05:16am | #5

   Do you include FWW in the realm of not having a clue about finishing?

1. 
   user-83153 | Oct 02, 2007 07:27am | #6

   Certainly not when you are writing the articles Peter. :) Are you trying to lay a trap for me? You would think after exchanging e-mails you would realize that you are one of the few that I trust on the subject. I apologize for not including you in my original rant on the subject. Rest assured it was an unintentional oversight on my part.

   At other times I have seen some pretty spurious information on finishing published in FWW.

   Edited 10/2/2007 12:32 am ET by Rob A.

1. 
   peter28 | Oct 02, 2007 02:56pm | #7

   Rob,

   Definitely not trying to trap you, after all we know each other. I'm not that sensitive either, just a little mischief. Being in construction, you know if you're not getting your balls busted, somethings wrong.

   Rest assured, we are always learning. People here who lead the way like Steve, Howie, Richard to name a few, always give great and concise advice. I've picked up more than a few tips from them.

   I agree that much spurious info hits the skids.  

   Don't apologise for a rant. If you can't do it here..............

   PG

2. 
   GettinTher | Oct 02, 2007 04:38pm | #8

   Peter,

   Ok.  You've set it up.  You have Rob's ringing endorsement.  Time to weigh in.  What is the best finish for this cabinet?

   Danny

    

   Edited 10/2/2007 9:40 am by GettinTher

3. 
   Samson | Oct 02, 2007 05:34pm | #9

   Yeah, this is a real stumper.  ;-)

   Seriously, this ain't rocket science.  Most any finish you are comfortable with is going to perform fine for a tool cabinet:

   Polyurethane - wiping mix or brush on

   Shellac - wiping mix or brush on

   Laquer

   Oil/Varnish blends - Watco; Deft; etc.

   Oils - BLO, Tung, etc.

    

4. 
   peter28 | Oct 03, 2007 02:29am | #10

   I'll second what Samson said. Whatever you feel comfortable using.

   I'd use shellac.

   "best" is very subjective

2. 
   highfigh | Oct 03, 2007 03:39pm | #11

   Poly can be sprayed, too. If you want speed and easy to fix, shellac and lacquer. If you want relatively fast and durable, poly can be wiped/padded, brushed or sprayed on (properly thinned, preferably with naptha). BLO/Watco, etc work well, too. Fast is good, especially for a shop. Waiting for it to dry just means that it's taking up space and keeping you from filling it and getting other things done.
   "I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."

2. 
   Samson | Sep 30, 2007 05:31pm | #2

   I recently did a little wall hung tool cabinet with poplar.  I used a couple coats of Watco (oil varnish mixture that goes on like BLO, but builds a little faster) and then some Mylands wax on the outside:

   http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2228322050032524639DbmwWT