Replies

1. 
   Mike_Taylor1 | Dec 05, 1999 08:32am | #1

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   James -

   I like Defthane poly. Thin about 30% with mineral spirits (paint thinner) and brush or otherwise smear it on. Before it drys, take a old clean tee-shirt and rub it all off using circular motions and wipe with the grain for last passes. Use something without lint. Cheese cloth is good. Really bear down and press the poly into the grain. I even use my bare palms to really press it in. Make sure all visible surface residue is removed. If it gets hard to wipe off, then wet cloth in paint thinner a little. Wait a minimum of 6 hours (maximum of 24 hrs) and do it again. 5 or 6 coats of this should do the trick. You can LIGHTLY sand between coats with 600 or 1500 grit wet/dry paper wet with paint thinner. You can spray on a last coat if desired, but be aware that you might get dimples (fish eye) because of minute silicon particles left behind. The Poly will tend to 'run away' from the silicon particles. There is stuff you can get to add to the poly to prevent this (fish eye preventer??). It basically makes the silicon particles 'Poly wet' so they won't repel the Poly. Don't know where to get it though. If you see fish eyes developing, then wipe off the coat before it drys. If you have minute air bubbles in the finish then you can blow on them to make them burst. A spray can of carbon dioxide gas is better for large surfaces. 24 hrs after the last coat you can buff with lambs wool on a buffer/polisher if you want a glossy look. I've gotten some beautiful finishes this way.

1. 
   CStanford_ | Dec 17, 1999 06:53am | #2

   *Tall order. Conference room tables can take a beating. A film finish can look bad fast with scratches caused by pens, pencils, laptop computers, calculators, etc. Most of the scratches that you see on a conference room table are in the film finish. Polyurethane looks HORRIBLE when it gets scratched. The Defthane may work, but you need to ask the kind gentleman above who recommended it if he has used it in this type of application before. If you use a film finish (and you really probably have to) it has to be the most scratch resistant one that you can find or your creation is going to look crappy fast.I have never received a commission for a conference room table before. I'm wondering if I wouldn't use an oil and wax finish for ease of repair down the road. In my former career as a CPA and financial analyst I can assure you that I have been seated at MANY conference room tables before and they all had scratches in the film finish. The thought of refinishing a piece of this size originally finished in poly makes me nauseous. Bad thing is is that the client will probably not be willing to take the extra precautions needed for a piece with only an oil and wax finish.Anyhow, good luck.