Replies

1. 
   HowardAcheson | Jul 29, 2003 06:54pm | #1

   In the shop I used to be involved with we built lots of stuff for a yacht builder. We generally used two part, slow set epoxy for inside as well as outside items.

   If the joints have been machined within the past 6 or so hours, oil removal is not required. If you wait longer, use acetone or lacquer thinner and be sure to keep changing the face of the wiping rag or paper. If you don't, all you are doing in smearing it around. The objective is to remove the oil.

   Don't be like Norm and just swab a joint with acetone. That doesn't do anything but thin the oil and contributes nothing to a solid joint.

   For chairs, whether teak or not, nothing will give you a better joint. Just be sure that insertion joints (mortise and tenon, etc) are a little more loose than what you might be used to. Epoxy needs a certain film thickness for full strength. Too tight a joint will either wipe off the adhesive as you insert the second piece or give too thin a glue thickness.

   Epoxy is also a great choice for repairs. Unlike other adhesives, you do not need to clean the old glue down to virgin wood nor do you need close fitting joints.

   
   

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   Edited 7/29/2003 11:57:26 AM ET by Howie

1. 
   RogerL | Jul 29, 2003 10:30pm | #2

   Howie:

   I was thinking epoxy as well.  But I have little experience.  Glad to herar from somone that does.

   Thanks

1. 
   Robbie | Jul 29, 2003 11:00pm | #3

   The better outdoor teak furniture companies, like Wood Classics, all use two part epoxy.  

   The recommendation to clean with epoxy is sound advice.  It is interesting to note, that Wood Classics teak chair and bench kit directions do not mention the need to clean the teak prior to gluing.  I've owned two of their chairs / benches for about 8 years and no problem yet with joint failure.

   I also built out of teak a front seat for my Boston Whaler fishing boat.  In that case, I used freshly cut teak and still cleaned with acetone prior to epoxying the joints.

2. 
   DavidP52 | Jul 29, 2003 11:20pm | #4

   For high stress applications, epoxy would be best.