I finally finished my first veneering project using Weldwood Plastic Resin Glue and liquid hide glue. I made sideboards for a bed. I used the Weldwood glue for the sides (approximately 5.5 inches wide) and liquid hide glue for the edges. I am planning to make a dresser to match which will be about 20 inches wide. I am assuming that Weldwood Plastic Resin Glue has been discontinued (at least that’s what I have been told), and I was not completely satisfied by the way the liquid hide glue bonded on the edges of the edge. My question is this:
What is the best glue for veneering in 2003? What would work the best for gluing 2 pieces of veneer 10 inches wide to high density particleboard? Any and all responses would be appreciated.
CLAMPS….CLAMPS…. you never have enough. I used various plumbing connections to rig up my 3/4 inch pipe clamps to make a “veneer press” in a vertical orientation for the last project. It worked ok since the boards were not too wide and I supplimented with every C-clamp etc that I had. I have looked at several plans for a veneer press, but I am hesitant, very hesitant about spending $20 a piece for veneer press screws/clamps. Is there a source for the materials to make veneer press clamps from threaded rod? Does anyone know of any alternate plans. I have also considered using scissor car jacks. I saw a shop method where the joists of the shop were used with scissor jacks to make a veneer press. Since I spent much time to sheetrock my ceiling, I am hesitant to go this route. I don’t know how much I will be veneering in the future, so I don’t want alot of jigs sitting in the corner somewhere dormant. Sorry to ramble on so much but I would like to know if anyone has any suggestions about veneer clamping systems (not too expensive) and any source of screw rod, handles, etc for such a project. Does anyone rent such a system? Is there someplace that would do the clamping for me? What do you think?
Replies
Dear Dave,
Good job and congrats! I've not used Weldwood except for Parson's Tables construction. It worked great. I am not for sure I understood correctly all that you have done. Most of the time for veneering, I've found Formica's Contact Glue good for adhering the veneer. I'll usually paint it on with a disposable brush on both surfaces, let it dry for 10-15 minutes depending on the temperature, then rebrush it on a second time. I put the brush in laquer thinner, and reuse it at a later time. Then I will use a J-roller instead of clamping. When I do need to clamp wide panels, I use flat cawls, as 2 x 4's or other flat substantive woods with the clamps to compress for adhesion. Should the above process need further clarification, please let me know. If you are looking to buy veneer or cabinet/furniture clamps, I'll ask those with more knowledge/experience to let you know. As FG says, Happy Woodworking.
Turbo
Hi Dave,
I haven't had a problem with hide glue yet. Urea Formaldehyde is commonly used also in veneering.
here's a recent thread on the topic.
Cheers,
eddie
another $.02.
i've been told and that contact cement is not the best for veneering wood to a substrate - the bond's stability is not good after 5 years or so -- again - have been told - no hands-on experience.
i had been using titebond ii glue for veneering - creating a sandwich of 2 3/4" mdf boards and maple cauls -- top & bottom - and a g'zillion clamps. the only problem i had was bleed through on the more porous woods.
just switched over to cold press veneer adhesive - check out http://www.joewoodworker.com for supplies, and for a whole lot of information about veneering. this cold press stuff seems a bit thicker than the titebond - minimal bleed through - but then again i applied it with a foam brush - not a notched spreader.
jerry
I recently acquired a vacuum bag system for veneering/laminating and am very pleased with it - no clamps needed! Think about the cost of clamps needed for a largish piece and then compare the total outlay!
As I live in the UK I am not fully familiar with US products, however, I suspect from the name that your Weldwood was a variety of urea formaldehyde glue which is really very generic and a favoured glue for veering because it has a relatively long open time and no "creep" to speak of (See Kim Carleton-Graves on this subject) .
For simple flat veneering. I mostly use a trade rated PVA specified for veneering purposes because it has a long open time and reduced creep (so I am told!). For bent laminations I use epoxy.
I would never use contact adhesive - too unforgiving and difficult plus it creeps like crazy. For hammer veneering, I use hide glue (the old fashioned heated kind). I have tried with some success to use the pre-glued (with PVA) and clothes iron approach. It has worked well for me but I would not like to do very large pioeces with it.
Chris
My shopmate does some veneering and he uses thinned down PVA glue and a hot iron.
What he does is brush the thinned down PVA glue on both pieces and lets it dry. He then places the veneer on the piece and uses a hot iron to reactivate the glue. It works extremely well.
Before I tried this on a real project I'd play around with some scraps to make sure I really understood how to do it, how much glue to lay on, etc.
John
Unibond 800 is a great urea resin glue. You can get it thru Vacuum Pressing Systems in Maine. I also use titebond for small flat pieces.
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