What do you folks recommend for bench lighting?
I have 4′ florescents (sp?) down each side of the shop, about 30″ over the bench. Down the center I have run a row of Halogen fixtures (from Rockler). I used my camera, face-up on the bench, saw, etc., to check illumination levels. The Halogens gave me the same light output (exposure) 3′ higher than the tubes. Is there something else I’ve missed?
Jerry
Replies
That sounds fine. But really it all depends on what you are doing in that area. Are you carving, finishing, or just general hand tooling and layout? The most importaint factor for the final stages is to have lighting that closely mstches the final location of the work. Most homes are lit with incandesant lighting. And your work will look very different under hallogen or florescent light. Outdoor light is also different (though more simular to incandesant).
Mike
Mudman is right in that the light over the finishing area should be as close to the daylight spectrum as you can get it. Over the bench I am less concerned about color spectrum as I am in achieving good intensity and eliminating shadows.
Hi Jerry,
While the "temperature" of the lighting can be very important to our perception of color, and "good fill" can make it easier to visualize a surface, I find a source of raking light invaluable to help me see textures and topography. This is particularly valuable when carving, preparing stock for finishing, rubbing out finishes, examining the scratch patterns left on cutting tools by abrasives, etc.
-Jazzdogg-
"Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie
Thanks to all of you - color temp matching destination of work, raking light:
BUT, what do you use to acheive these effects? Incandescent bulbs in metal reflectors?
Jerry
Hi Jerry,
I use lamps with an articulated arm and integral (though seldom used) magnifying lense to supplement shop lighting - you've seen them clamped to drafting tables; some of these portable light use ordinary incandescent bulbs, while others use fluorescent tubes.
I like sunlight best of all, and will often position work next to windows, or take it outdoors, to see what it "really" looks like.
For color matching, there's nothing quite as good as sending test pieces home with the client and having them critique the color in the environment in which the commission will eventually live.
-Jazzdogg-
"Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie
I've seen those lamps. I'll look into it. Thanks, Jerry
My shop is a 2,000 sqft metal building with 14' side walls and it is about 20' in the middle. I mention this because it affected my choices, as your shop will yours. There are 16 twin bulb 8' HO comercial grade mag ballast florescent fixtures on the ceiling, no reflectors. That does not seem like a lot, but it is enough. These fixtures put out a lot of light. Technically it is not "good light", but I don't care too much about the color of the light around the general machining area. I have incandescant drop lights near my miter saw, that is also where most of my layout seems to occur so the extra, more natural light helps me figure out which boards go where. Other than that I made sure there are no shadows no matter where I am. For example You don't want your head casting shadows over the cutting area of your saws. The wall and ceiling are white which helps even out the light a lot.
My finishing room has a 10' ceiling and is 12' x 16'. I have 4' twin bulb florescent fixtures that use the skiny bulbs (T12 I think) instead of the thicker ones you usually see (T8 I think, or it is the other way around). The ballasts are expensive comercial electronic and the bulbs are top of the line with the best colour rendition I could afford. White metal reflectors. In between these lights are incandescant fixtures. They are a hodge-podge of various fixtures I have collected from my remodeling jobs, mostly 2 bulb 90 watt hall lights with a white glass cover. I also have two Halogen work lights; the type with a tripod base and an extending pole with two 500 watt halogen lights mounted on a arm that can be rasied between 3' and 6' high. I was going to put florescent fixtures in the walls but now I think that would be a waste. I prefer to have the halogen lights that can be moved to get the perfect angle while sanding or finishing. The florescent lights are for general lighting, the halogen lights are used during finishing to highlight flaws and show me where to spray the next pass, and the incandescant lights are to get colour rendition that is comprable to most homes. Really the incandesant lights are not necessary because the florescent lights are close enough, and if that little bit of difference will matter I finish a sample door and bring it to the instalation site to check how it looks, that is the only way to know for certain.
Oh yea, the crapper has one exposed incandescant bulb in a basic surface mount screw-in base. The bulb is burnt out so I just leave the door open. Heh heh.
Mike
You might like to know that the T8 is a skinny bulb, takes 30 watts and is much brighter than the thick 40 watt bulb. I know this because I just installed several in my house. That being said, I assume the thick old type we have had for so long is the T12. I thought the T8s were pretty reasonable at about fifty dollars for a four bulb unit. In my shop I put in a T5 which is 54 watts per tube. It is also a thin tube. It really puts out a lot of light, but I am not sure about the quality.
Yea, I can never remember which is which.
Mike
Very helpful information. I'm going to look into those 8' commercial units. I like the high output from my halogens up high - but they do cast a shadow from my head when I try to do close work. Many thanks for the new approach.JerryIf I replace any of my lights could I send them on to you so you could upgrade your Crapper illumination and get some magazines? Woodworking, of course.
You have inspired my to replace that bulb! Now I just need to remember to bring some TP. LOL
Mike
Shouldn't the burned out incadescent be explosion proof because of its environment?
ROFL
A bad day woodworking is better than a good day working -- yes, I'm retired!
LOL LOL LOL. Yes, but not because of me. My buddy is the cause for concern.
That was a good one. lol
Mike
Just bought 4' T8 (skinny) full spectrum and per sales rep replicate daylite to approx 98%. I had to go to a vendor that only sells bulbs to get them. They were about 9 bucks a piece.
There was also an article several years ago in FWW that suggested the use of T8 bulbs. Be sure to ask for full spectrum/daylight as they come in several brightness/color levels.
Those sound like the bulbs I wanted. However after buying the pricey ballasts I really couldn't spend that kind of dough on the bulbs. So I got the step down from there, they are still better than anything at Home Depot.
Mike
I use 4' flouresent with 1 coolwhite bulb and 1 natural sunlight bulb that has a 92CRI. I find that this gives me good color rendition and is good for most woodworking. That said, I also have 2 incandesent lights in the cieling and use an incandesent articulated arm light for closeup work and as a raking light.
If needed, I also have a 2 halogen light on a stand that I can move around.
1 - measure the board twice, 2 - cut it once, 3 - measure the space where it is supposed to go 4 - get a new board and go back to step 1
Edited 1/30/2006 11:37 am ET by Ricks503
Since you are asking specifically about "bench lighting" as opposed to general shop or machine lighting, I'd like to recommend my article "The Ultimate Hand tool shop" in the current issue (FEB) of Popular Woodworking magazine. I think it will be relevant to your situation.
In it, I recommend the use of clamp light fixtures with compact fluorescent bulbs and photographic diffuser material over them. (there are pictures and details of this set-up in the article).
I agree with the others that a high color temp and CRI are really helpful. I'm not sure CF bulbs hold these qualities throughout their long lives, however. Over time, I think I'm losing the color temp as well as lumens.
Since my shop is also a de facto photography studio, mixing lights is a no-no. You might want to consider that if you find yourself wanting to take photographs of your work in the future. That said, the furniture conservation lab in the Philadelphia Museum of art uses a combination of fluorescent and incandescent bulbs (but they don't generally photograph there). To tell the truth, I hated the light there, but that may be just because I'm used to the soft white glow of my set up.
I think my design is marginally more expensive than conventional tubes. I still have some tubes in my shop for general lighting. Over the bench though, I think it was worth the extra money. I think I paid under $10/light including the fixture, bulb and diffuser. The raking lights are a must have, BTW. If you are reading surfaces or working with scribed lines, these are real eye relievers.
Adam
Thanks, I'll look that story up. Apparently I haven't received my copy yet. Your approach sounds interesting but I sure don't have enough room to photograph furniture. Jerry
I am breaking ground for a shop in about a month, and am trying to figure the lighting needs. The shop will be 24x36 with ceilings about 9.5 feet. I am planning on 2-tube 4 foot fluorescents. I'll probably use some daylight and some ordinary bulbs, and I'll probably have some incandescent lamps in the workbench and finishing areas. Any suggestions on how many fluorescent fixtures I should plan on? I was thinking of arranging them in 2 rows down the length of the shop.
I would consider 3 rows, with the 2 outside ones being about 5' from the walls and the the 3rd in the middle, or if most of the power tool work is in the middle area, start in the middle and then have the other rows 5' to either side - that should help eliminate shadows. I use the daylight bulbs and cool white bulbs - one of each in each fixture - I find the color rendition with that is real good.1 - measure the board twice, 2 - cut it once, 3 - measure the space where it is supposed to go 4 - get a new board and go back to step 1
Thanks for the suggestion. I'll probably go for something along those lines.
I finishing up a similar shop, mine is 30x40 and I went with 5 banks of lights, the two outside are about 4' from the outside wall and then divide the inside 3 banks about 5-6' apart. There was an article in FWW a few years ago that indicated the light banks shouldn't be more than 6' apart on a 10' ceiling. Also it is a good idea to put them individual switches for the few different banks.
I would think that 3 banks would work fine for your shop. I was able to get all of my lights (T-8 double 4' fluorescent) out of a grocery store that was being demolished so I add more than less since the price was right. I have a total of 20 8 foot fixtures in my shop. and they are split into 3 switches so that I don't have to fire all of the lights up.
Check around with a local fluorescent light recyclers to see if there are any project you could salvage some fluorescent out of. All buildings that are being demolished need to be decommissioned and the bulbs and ballast get removed. You wouldn't't believe how many lights get scraped out of commercial buildings. I ended up with 50 fixtures of the grocery store along with all of the bulbs. Probably $3K worth of lights for free!!!
Good Luck
Just wanted to add to Aaronb's good suggestion,When looking at salvaged fluorescent fixtures, be sure to open them up and check the ballast voltage (on the sticker), because many fixtures from commercial buildings are 277 volt and can't be ran on household current. I've known folks to get pick-up loads of them home and unloaded, only to find they're useless.hope this helped,
Mark
Mark,
Used and damaged fixtures installed in my shop was the way for me. They may be the older Magnetic ballasts, but compared to the $50 each price tag for new ones, the $3-$8 each worked for me. In addition to checking the voltage, a look at the ballast itself and the inside of the wiring cover to see blackened paint will tell you if the ballast has much life left... Using those guidelines, in the past 12 years, my used fixtures have had to have only 3 ballasts replaced.
I did run across ballasts with 208v on 4 fixtures. I did an 8hr. test run time on 220v. Other than the ballast being pretty hot, they've worked fine. With twelve other 4-tube fixtures on the ceiling, I don't use that switch and center of the shop lights unless I'm on the table saw for a long time.
One final lesson I learned has to do with "collecting and storing " the fixtures until you use them.... If surface rust develops and causes the inside reflector to look bad, I bought a spray can of white "Appliance Epoxy Paint". It works great and one can will two or three inside surfaces of those kinds of fixtures.
Bill
Hi Bill,Good point about looking for charred ballasts. The magnetic ballasts will get to hot to hold, even when operating normally, but the very crusty ones are on their last leg.I honestly don't think I've ever come across a 230v magnetic flourescent ballast, just 120v and 277v, which I guess could simply be regional. I've seen 230v listed on the electronic 'universal' voltage ballasts, and on HID 'multi-tap' ballasts, but those are different animals.I like that appliance paint too. Tough stuff.Mark
Mark,
From being around public schools, I've seen that the 3 phase voltages are used and that the 208 voltage in lighting and most of the electric motors is related to that kind of building....
When one county public school district got a grant to make their buildings more energy efficient, they started with all the classroom and building lighting. In doing so, they replaced all the older ballasts with the newer versions to run the smaller and brighter flor. tubes. In the end, there was a 55 gallon barrel stuffed full of old ballasts. The superintendent found it was now consider as "Hazardous Waste" and was going to have to pay over $1,000 to get that one barrel hauled away....
Bill
That is what has happened here (CA)in schools and many are going from the T-12's to the more efficient T-8's (electronic ballasts.) All the motors are 3 phase (mainly A/C and Heat) at 208 (unless they have 480vac depending on what Edison had off the pole) I'm speaking of K-12 as colleges often have 4180v or higher and their own sub-stations.With 208v ballasts they could get more fixtures on a circuit (less amps), which would be cheaper in the ammount of wire and number of breakers and makes sense. I don't doubt it, just never remember seeing it around here, only the 120v and 277 (when they have 480v 4-wire avail.)Yep to the haz-mat, the tubes for 'em are considered so also, but you can't beat the price for lighting a shop. :)Mark
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