My wife wants window boxes. She wants the front to be frame and panel and she wants them to be painted white. My original thought was to make them of Azek, but that’s relatively flimsey, hard to make good looking joints, expensive and heavy. My next thought is Cedar which is light and expensive. Also, it seems a sin to paint it. Any other thoughts? Also, can I use plywood for the panels?
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Replies
Cypress
Taigert
Before you make the boxes, buy some cheap plastic ones and build the wooden ones large enough to put the plastic ones inside. The wood will last longer and they will be much easier to use, since the inside box can be removed for planting/replanting.
I'd use MDO for the panels. It takes paint well.
Will MDO hold up in a wet environment?
MDO is used for outdoor signs and so I would think it should hold up as long as it isn't constantly wet. I would also think that drainage holes are a must for window boxes.
Putting plastic box liners in them sounds like a great idea as long as water has a place to drain out so the wood can dry.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
47352.4 in reply to 47352.3
Will MDO hold up in a wet environment?
Yes it will.
Tom, very nice!I have four 6 ft. long Azek window boxes. I put a 7 degree bevel on the bottom edges and I screwed the sides on. The ends were cut to fit the ends. All screwed together with Heradcote 1 5/6" stainless steel screws.Sides are 1x10, bottoms are 1x8.I have them sitting on my front porch top railings, I did add a few blocks of Azek below to prevent the railings from dropping. There heavy when empty so I placed them on the top railings then filled them. In the long run there very inexpensive. No maintenance, Sow, grow and eat! I grow lettuce, beets, cukes, herbs, tomatoes, beans, peppers etc.If used as window boxes supports are necessary. best of luck
Ron in Peabody
I built many window boxes for our house fifteen years ago. As has been suggested, I bought plastic, lipped planting "troughs" first. I fashioned bottomless boxes with a rabbet at the top in which the plastic troughs sit. It is much easier to plant, doesn't make a mess, water passes right out of the bottom without collecting in a wooden box. The boxes were made from redwood. Some were painted, some were stained (on the deck). They are all holding up perfectly in our semi-arid Colorado climate.
MDO is ordinary fir plywood with a facing. The facing makes it an excellent surface for painting but the material itself will deteriorate like ordinary plywood if it isn't well sealed by painting it. John White
Shop Manager for FWW Magazine, 1998-2007
All the road signs (State Highway and county) in our area are made from MDO and some are not painted that good on the edges and they seem to stand up real well. Are they using a special grade of MDO.
I agree with building the window boxes to suit a plastic insert. I have used 3/4" western red cedar, reinforced the mitred corners with splines, and finished the works with Behr exterior cedar semi-transparent. I drilled drainage holes to align with the one in the plastic container. A rabbet around the lip of the box allows the plastic container to sit down out of sight.
Good quality exterior plywood, if it is allowed to dry out between exposures to wet weather holds up pretty well, and MDO is almost always made from top quality plywood. It is possible that the state is using a type of MDO that is more weather resistant than what I am familiar with for sign making. My concern with the flower box application would be that the appearance is more critical and the continuous exposure to wet soil in the box would cause the plywood to rapidly deteriorate.John W.
I fully agree with your comment on use in a flower box.
ALL.
I'm not convinced that rabbetting the top for the plastic insert is a good idea either. It could provide a place for rainwater to collect under the lid that would sit in the rabbett.
I'd build a bottomless box out of weather resistant wood such that the lid rests on the top edges of the box, perhaps bevel the edges and paint them with a good exterior latex; of let them weather naturally. If a finish is applied be prepared for some amount of maintenance.
Fake wood is not a consideration for me, but everyones mileage may vary.
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
How about any outdoor wood and plastic insert with 2 stainless steel or galvanized bolts at the bottom to support the insert.
No bottom to rot, no rabberted lip, no ugly plastic showing.
Rabbets in the top of the window box are not a good idea. That was my original plan but, instead, the plastic lip of the window box liner sits on top of the box sides. I rounded over the sides (1/2" round-over bit). Seems to be working well.
I agree with using a plastic insert. I started making window boxes using redwood. Eventually they rot and need repainting.
Now I use the plastic inserts and my wife loves them bwcause they are easier to plant in, clean, etc...
The last ones I made I used 2 X 6's from an old deck.
Bill
Go for Azek. I did redwood ones and got rot after five years where water collected. I made the current ones of Azek, look just like wood, no painting needed. Cope and stick panel construction is just like wood. Use Azek adhesive
What the heck is azek? What the jeck is MDO?
Duh. I know what MDF is. hehe
Where can a guy buy this stuff. It's not at any Big Box store I know of.
Azek is a plastic wood substitute used primarily for exterior trim. Doesn't rot, or warp, color all the way through. Pricy, but especially nice for places you don't want to paint. I had some soffits replaced a year ago and used it.
MDO= medium density overlay: an exterior plywood with a paper coating impregnated with something to make it waterproof. As another poster mentioned, it is used for road signs, as it is very durable and weather resistant.
Both Azek and MDO should be available at any real lumber yard.
Spanish Cedar
Ipe
Teak
Quickstep
I guess everyone wants to build furniture-grade works of art that will last forever. I use cedar fence slats ($1.49/ea at HD, or recycle for free), Liquid Nails and galvanized screws, rabbetts and butt joints hold it together. Outdoor oil-based primer, caulk and leftover house paint. Lasts about ten years. Works for birdhouses too. In my view, the flowers are supposed to get the attention, not the dovetail joints and roman ogee edges. Agree with using plastic inserts.
I understand if you want to be proud of it and have the time to spend on a flowerbox, but most people won't get close enough to see it, especailly if painted.
Practical Stan, not looking for a "this is FINE woodworking, dammit" lecture.
Edited 7/14/2009 6:43 pm ET by stantheman
Edited 7/14/2009 10:22 pm ET by stantheman
stan,
In my view, the flowers are supposed to get the attention, not the dovetail joints and roman ogee edges.
I can't believe you said that! Ya mean you actually put flowers in yer boxes?
That's borderline blasphemy!
:-)
Regards,Bob @ Kidderville Acres
A Woodworkers mind should be the sharpest tool in the shop!
Plastic ones are best.
I made one about five years ago. It looks just like the day I made it. Simple tho, no fancy stuff, just butt joints screwed (and epoxied) together. I used cedar, and coated it, inside and out (I think I did the outside, I confess to being uncertain), with epoxy, and painted the outside. No liners are used, the box is emptied each fall, and looked 'as new' this spring when it was refilled.
Just found this post.. Sorry for the late reply..
My wife loved anything that grew.. Plants, Children, Etc... I even had to eat Dandelion salad. Dandelion wine is GOOD!
My wife could grow anything.. I look at her plants and she has to nurse them bhack to health..
I got her a very expensive window box made from Copper...
As in sort of like this.. http://www.hooksandlattice.com/copperwindow2.html
Just a link I found.. I have nothing to do with them..
I do not remember where I got my copper window box gift but my wife so, was so happy, I wish I owned a Copper Mine!
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