Replies

1. 
   peter28 | Dec 30, 2007 07:48pm | #1

   Hi Gordon,

   You do have some extreme fluctuations in temperatures to be concerned with. My gut feeling is to use some type of penetrating product like Sykens (spelling?) When using a penetrating product you may not be able to use the gel stains. Read the directions.

   I don't know how a film finish like a spar varnish would hold up under your conditions.

   If you are leaning towards a varnish, I would suggest you contacted their technical department. Sometimes you have to be a little persistent as often times the person answering questions is customer service and not really that experienced on the technical side.

   What are some of the suggestions you say you have gotten. I'd be interested.

   BTW, how are the Pats doing this year?

   Peter

    

2. 
   jeffe | Jan 03, 2008 01:04am | #2

   I'm not the expert, just another 'good ol' boy'...this is what the old timers used and their formula;
   linseed oil - once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year, once a year for life.

   In my area during the 40's (WPA work program), some incredible work was done in this area and protected by nothing more than this formula; 1 part linseed oil, 1 part turpentine....for every 2 gal of mix, melt in 1/2# - 1# beeswax or paraffin.

   I live in S. Central Tx. we have pretty drastic weather changes here, excepting the lower temp range, LOL. Doesn't usually get below freezing and then not for long.

   Hope you post the results in a year or three.

   Go Canada! :) Jeffe

1. 
   peter28 | Jan 03, 2008 04:39am | #3

   Jeffe,

   With all due respect, those formulas are romantic in notion but very impractical.

   There are so many old formulas that seemed good but........

   One that was widely used was the turps and linseed oil mixed 5050 and applied to furniture to "polish" it.

   The sludge this eventually produced, it is non reversible, has been the bane of many a restorer and conservator.

   I always say bless the chemists for their inquisitive minds as they keep finding better ways for us to protect and maintain our possessions.

   Regards,

   Peter

1. 
   jeffe | Jan 03, 2008 07:23am | #4

   Well, sir, in the spirit of your response, which I have taken to heart...what would you use to coat locally milled red cedar board and batten. Stains I have seen look pretty bad after only 2-4 years....I am planning, at this point, to use the linseed turpentine 50/50 with bees wax....this is all exterior...of course I realize the cedar will look like fine old cypress in about 20 years, but the client does not want this....I am all ears :) Jeffe

1. 
   peter28 | Jan 04, 2008 03:55am | #5

   Cabot, Olympic, Sykens just to name a few have clear oil sealants that are superior to wax and linseed oil.

   I spray Olympic oil once a year on the cedar siding on my shop. In the spring, I'll wash it with some TSP and bleach that I apply with a garden sprayer. After that, I hose it down and let it dry.

   Then I spray a coat of the preservative. It takes me only a few hours total to do this.

    Peter

1. 
   jeffe | Jan 04, 2008 05:57pm | #6

   Don't know about the others, but Cabot is a linseed oil base, I'm nearly certain. I have seen the results of the Cabot on siding, lasted 17 years excellently...but cedar, as you know a different animal. After a few years the 'clear' stains I've seen didn't do well....looked really bad....even with periodic cleaning and reapplication. Mmm, you have me thinking again.....sigh, cedar is such a particular animal...You are aware I'm not speaking of western cedar, but locally milled red cedar? I am going to look into your suggestions, still am not convinced....I thank you very much for your quick response and very much appreciate your feedback and experience.....thanks :) Jeffe