Best rip fence for a Delta 14″ Bandsaw
Hello Everyone
I am going it add a store bought rip fence to my Delta 14″ bandsaw. I have been away from woodworking for ten plus years and I am not up on current equipment. Delta list a fence for the referenced saw on their website but do not show an image. Does anyone know if this is similar to the old Jet Lock fence? Is there an aftermarket rip fence available that is better?
Thank you for your help and suggestions.
Grits
Replies
Hey Grits, I like this fence, designed by Mark Dugunskie, made by Kreg. I think Rockler sells it.
Thanks Steve. I looked at this fence in a couple of mail order houses; however, I have never actually seen one.
Grits
Me neither to tell you the truth. I use a board clamped to the table. I've thought this would be the one I'd buy though.
Steve
I have also used the board method. I am ready to find something with a little bit of repeatability, at least for blade drift.
Grits
Hi...I was in the same dilema as you and finally bought that Kregg fence from Highland. Did not get the micro adjuster as they advised against it. They are right it is isn't needed. I dom't know if Highland's price is the best, but they are very reliable and will take bake whatever you don't like without a question.
I never have been happy with my bandsaw, had it for close to 20 years but I could never get it to work right for me. I then read an article in FWW #173 by Michael Fortune, followed his suggestions and it's like I got a new miraculous machine. I can do anything with it and now use it more than my TS. Imove the fence aording to their scale, make a test nick and any adjustment needed and I off and running! If you don't have that issue, GET IT!
Len
Grits,
I just want to echo what Redrock said about the Fortune article...a whole new machine with no drift. Also, for resawing, I believe in a fense that supports the full height of the stock, and constant pressure against the full face of the board. My point being, any fense you buy, I believe, will need to be modified to accomodate a taller fense that can be squared to the table and blade. I made two large push blocks with mouse pad bottoms to keep the pressure when resawing. good luck
I use a board clamped to the table..Me too! I get away with it but I use a 1 inch wide blade for re-saw.. Yes.. I waste a bit of stock with the big blade but... I can slice wood so thin ya can see light through it..I do not have one but if you are serious about re-sawing.. Get a Power feeder.. Saves ALOT of sanding!EDIT:: I have a RICON 18" with a LENOX 1 inck wide blade 3 teeth per inch.. Only run out is ME! DAMN!Edited 10/14/2005 2:26 pm by WillGeorge inck I was CLOSE!
Edited 10/14/2005 2:27 pm by WillGeorge
Hi Will, you know I have to give you some grief, d-ling, inck, etc. :)
That wide blade helps dosen't it. I use 1" three tooth too. I need a new blade someday, but 239" blades are not cheap. You like the Lennox?
Have a good day,
Steve
I second the Kreg. I have it on a 14" Delta and love it. Don't get the micro-adjuster. It just doesn't work very well and often pulls the fence off the track.
I have the original Duginske fence (before Kreg bought it) and I didn't like it becasue I thought that there was too much flex at the rear of the fence...So I pulled it off and made my own style of fence which I don't like for other reasons.... It looks like Kreg made some changes though when they bought that design -- what has your experience been with the Kreg fence in that respect?Cheers,Castle
I haven't actually checked to see if there is much flex. It there is flex, it isn't affecting performance. I can easily resaw very thin veneer with this fence. That's something I was never able to to with my old hand made fence. I usually do not use the resaw fence. I adjust for drift before making a cut and have had no problems so far.
Thank ya'll ( I am a Southerner) for your comments. I downloaded the article by Fortune and it is very good. After sitting for so long, all of my tools need tuning. There are so many little things you can do that make a big difference.
Machine work is also one of my hobbies. Some of the skills I have learned in machine work have had a positive affect on the quality of what I do with wood. When you tune tools that are accurate to less than .001", is give one an appreciation for accuracy.
Something I suggest for everyone, is a dial indicator with a magnetic base. You do not have to buy new and top of the line, just something that is accurate. You can find Starrett magnetic stands on eBay for a song. Also, Dial indicators are a dime a dozen. When you buy a indicator used, make sure the seller has good feedback. I would stay away from the Chinese imports. Some are okay out of the box and some are pure junk. You never know what you are going to get.
I am leaning toward the Krag rip fence unless someone can convince me the Delta is better.
Thanks
Gritsg
Edited 10/10/2005 7:42 pm ET by Grits
hi,
here's another vote for the kreg. i have a delta x-series bandsaw, and the kreg fence works well with it. i also have the resaw attachment, and it works well. i also have the micro-adjuster (all 3 came in a sale-bundle at my local woodcraft a while back, so the micro-adjuster was free), but i've never tried it.here's another vote for dial indicators. i don't think there is a good way to set up a jointer without one, and it's a blessing when setting up your table saw too. i learned woodworking from a machinist, and maintaining accuracy was lesson number one. joints just go together better if they're cut right, and you can't do that if your tools are out. also here's a vote for (accurate) dial calipers.cheers,
bert
if it's worth doing at all, then it's worth doing well.
CherryDust,
I've looked at the Kreg and it seems nice. One thing I wonder about however is the fact that it is not mounted in the rear of the table. Does this fence deflect at all?
Edited 10/15/2005 9:11 am ET by MatthewSchenker
I've tried a few, but this is my favorite because of blade lead.
Joe
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