Replies

1. 
   rholland54 | May 12, 2004 05:03am | #1

   When I built my router table I used an article in American Woodworker for the fence design, very simple to make and use.   This was about  2 - 3 year back.   From my experience the simpler the better,   I use a  "C" clamp at each end of the fence.  What I like about the design of this fence is that you can shim the trailing fence out to perform like a jointer.  I use this set up all the time to prepare for edge glue boards.   

              Robert

2. 
   Routerman | May 12, 2004 05:33am | #2

   Some features and character of a reasonable router table here.

1. 
   macalex | May 12, 2004 10:50am | #5

   Thanks Pat.

   have you ever constructed, or seen, a shop-made router table with a sliding table - as in a Euro saw? Has anyone else?

   Incidentally, thinking about this (at work, oops, this afternoon) my ideal router table would have:

   large, dead-flat, tableliftsliding table right up against the bitor a no-wriggle mitre guide in a slotmicroadjustable fencetable-mounted quick-adjust cam clampschip and dust extractionAnything else, all you experts?

   Edited 5/12/2004 3:51 am ET by kiwimac

1. 
   BG | May 12, 2004 02:22pm | #6

   Kiwimac,

   Some of us have built Norm's router table (New Yankee Workshop) and are quite pleased....there are pictures in the gallery. 

   Key features include a taller fense to accomodate feather boards and a miter slot on the table top to accept miter guage for TS.  It is also designed well to support a heavy router with plenty of storage.

   I'm just a newbie to woodworking and especially routing, but I'm beginning to believe that the router table setup is kinda like table saws....the heavier, more solid the setup the better the quality of cut.  Maybe the router should not be hung from the top but rather supported by the surrounding cabinet?  

1. 
   macalex | May 12, 2004 02:43pm | #7

   Thanks

   I agree about solidity - the heavier the better,  usually.

   I have the Woodpeckers Unilift en route already, and whatever I end up fitting it to will have to be heavy-duty (I want to be able to throw some pretty meaty cutters). Can't remember whether I said so above, but I also have a top-end Makita router on order.

   I'm getting quite interested in a sliding table ... don't know yet how I'll engineer one!

   Edited 5/12/2004 7:44 am ET by kiwimac

1. 
   BG | May 12, 2004 07:12pm | #10

   Kiwimac,

   Just for information...Grizzly sells a sliding table router set up....you might want to take a look at that for ideas...

2. 
   Midnight | May 13, 2004 03:34am | #11

   I built Norms origonal table about a month before the new one came out... In the last 2 years I've worked it just about as hard as I've worked the table saw; it's never let me down...

   The only way I'd improve it would be to adapt Pats' fence to suit the table.. never felt the need for a lift... Pats ideas for using jigs to hold work have me sold...Mike Wallace

   Stay safe....Have fun

2. 
   RANGERP75R | May 12, 2004 04:51pm | #9

   kiwimac

      Take your requirements from post # 6 and design and build your own. You know what you want, design it to fit your height and shop space. A router cabinet is just a box with a top and fence. All the things you mentioned can be added to the top, cabinet or fence.

      If you can  operate a router, you can build a router table without waiting for some rocket scientist to design it and publish the blue-prints. It's just a glorified box.

   Regards...

   sarge..jtProud member of the :  "I Rocked With ToolDoc Club" .... :>) 

3. 
   hammer1 | May 12, 2004 06:02am | #3

   I built my first router table in the 60's long before there were any manufactured tables available. Scrap plywood with a formica top. I still have it. Since then I have made many others, some with the router sideways and others on angles. I still use whatever scrap materials I have around. Melamine sheets on the last one. The one I use the most today is mounted between the long fence rails on my table saw. I have an assortment of fences and dust fittings that I add as needed. I have upgraded my fence attachment from clamps to knobs and slots and added a switched outlet. When building the top I used typical tortion box construction and crowned the top up slightly, 1/16". This helps to keep the weight of the router from sagging the top over time and helps maintain good table contact of the work piece at the cutting point. I like making my own fences that allow almost zero clearance around the bits. When I worked for some large Architectural woodworking shops, many of the cabinetmakers simply made an L shape out of plywood and clamped it in the tail vise, screwing on a scrap for the fence. I used to get ribbed about my fancy formica top. I think the manufactured tables are way too expensive for a simple top with a hole in it, I'd rather spend my $ on bits.

4. 
   301 | May 12, 2004 07:04am | #4

   I like the MLCS melamine (1, 3/8" thick) router table top.  It is not the fanciest but you sure get a lot of "bang" for your buck.  The top, fence and plate are about $199 with free shipping.  It all went together effortlessly and works just like it is supposed to.  It has an extra-tall fence as well.

5. 
   squbrigg | May 12, 2004 03:25pm | #8

   There is a design for a nice router table in Woodsmith magazine's book Custom Woodworking  "The Home Workshop" published by Oxmoor House. 

   The table/stand/bench has double 2 X 4 legs, rails and stretchers and a table top that you can make from any number of materials, I used Birch Ply, with Birch slat edging.  The table design is for a router and has plans for a removable insert with router attached , a fence and some guard assessories, all well designed.

   Easy to build, and well thought out, I built one and have used it for all kinds of work, routing, assembly, drill press stand, and lathe stand.

   Good luck,

   Bob 

   Before I am slipped over the standing part of the fore sheet, I'd like to pipe "Splice the Main Brace"....one more time.
6. 
   robkress | May 13, 2004 06:30am | #12

   I like big heavy tops.... so mine is made from two peices of particle board.  Glued and screwed with a sheet of laminate on top and bottom.  Then edge banded with hard maple.  Rock solid and flat.  My box is just that... a box.  Top half is two doors to get to the router.  Made my own lift with ball bearing drawer slides and threaded rod.  Used a piece of the top cut out for a bearing disc on the lead screw (it rides laminate to laminate and remains very smooth and even sometimes better with wood dust in there).  Bottom of box is two drawers full width with full extension drawer slides.  The face frame is ash along with the doors and drawer fronts (I had it laying around for a few years and needed to get rid of the piece I had).  The face frame was attached to the particle board box and then the other three sides are laminated (in that order so that the laminate runs over the sides of the ash... helps hold it on).  Same laminate as the top (I get the stock black stuff at HD for about $41 per sheet).  Super durable all around and supper functional.  Oh yea, it's on locking casters.

   I just designed my own.  Not really that hard.  Made one or two mistakes along the way but figured it was good practice.  Made my own fence also.

   Good luck with your project.

   Rob Kress

1. 
   Sancho | May 13, 2004 04:56pm | #13

   I really like WoodHavens. If I were to buy one Id get theres. 

   Darkworksite4:

   El americano pasado hacia fuera ase la bandera