I’ve searched here and elsewhere for current info with little success. What’s the best router top on the market?
I’m a professional and need something rugged, flat, and dependable. Will be using the PC 7518 fixed base model in the top. Cost is not an issue.
cheers
Replies
For what a router, lift, and table cost, have you looked into a shaper? You can buy a collet to run 1/2" router bits if you wish
Already have a homemade stand (built the Norm version years ago) and the PC 7518. Want to upgrade the tabletop as I'm not happy with the one I made.
Would love to get a shaper but just don't have the room for it.
think cast iron?
You might consider the BenchDog cast iron table from Rockler:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21297
then, add the BenchDog pro lift:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=19517
The cast iron table top alone weighs close to 100 pounds.
Home made
I sell router tables, and they are quite nice. But I still like my home made top & fence better.
It's 3' X 4' two layers of 3/4" MDF with formica laminated on both sides. Four feet sure makes it nice for running long stock. Torsion box supported on the bottom side. Right now I have a Kreg router plate and DW625 router w/crank handle, but will be converting to PC7518 with Woodpecker sidewinder when funds permit. And built my own fence from hard maple and cherry with all the bells and whistles that a Mfg. has and more.
I have the Jessem phenolic router table with master table, master lift, and master slide. It's rigid, accurate, and the best one that I have personally ever used. I went through 3 different router tables, never satisfied, until I purchased this one. I bought it when it first came out, and paid around $1000 for everything, including their metal stand, but it went together in under an hour, and I've been happy ever since.
I also use the P-C 3 1/2 hp speedmatic router.
As to shapers used for routing. with max spindle speeds at 10,000 and 7,000 on almost all shapers, they do not make good routing machines. For better quality mouldings, you need much higher speeds to avoid burning, etc....in most woods. That doesn't mean it won't work, but if you're a professional, and speed and quality (no sanding) are important, then a shaper used as a router table isn't the answer.
Shapers are for shaper cutters, and router tables w/ a router are best for router bits. 18,000 rpm's is a far cry from 10,000.
Jeff
Jessem messed up when they moved their tops across the briny seas. We started seeing less than flat tops. The Kreg tops have a very nice channel iron bracket system that screws into the bottom for support and the dimpled surface seems to ease the sliding of material.
Nobody that I know of has a nice high fence that will accept the very long architectural molding bits with out adding a quite thick face to the fence.
how high?
How high is "nice high"? I have a "standard" 6" fence face shown here, and 12" faces for vertical panel work. Pretty stable so far, since the 3/8" aluminum angle doesn't have much give. ;-)
you want rigid and quality make it.
I built my own 6 years ago and its been flat ever since. I took two pieces of mdf glued together. Edgebanded it with oak covered it with formica routed a slot for a section of T-track and dropped a woodpecker PRL in it with a 7518 and she's never burped or sagged. I use Incra LS120 for the fence dead accurate and minutely adjustable. That sits ontop of a 3/4" ply box with plywood drawers on casters so I can roll it out of the way when not in use.
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