Replies

1. 
   blopar | Jan 08, 2012 07:15pm | #1

   Assuming you have outboard support to the right side of the blade the only thing you really need to worry about without an outfeed table is support. As long as you have either someone to assist or a pair of rollers to support the sheet as it comes off of the saw you should have no problem ripping with the fence position on the right. As a rule you will want the smaller piece to come off the waste side as the larger piece is easier to control between the fence and blade, the cut needs to continue past the blade lest it become trapped. Thats when all kinds of bad things happen. Good luck

1. 
   CharlieL | Mar 07, 2012 04:07pm | #6

   Deleted

2. 
   bones | Jan 09, 2012 11:31am | #2

   take the saw to the ply

   I've cut ply on a TS and unless you have a slider it can be daunting.  To me the easiest way is take the saw to your work.   Go to a big box store and by a sheet of solid 2" insulation.  Not the cheap foil backed stuff but the green that is thick and you can stand on.   Lay that on the floor and put your ply on top.    Take a strait edge clamp and clamp it on the site.   Use a good blade in a good Circular saw set the depth just below the ply and cut trhough it.  Works like a charm.  I used that for a long time before I upgraded to the TS 55"  by festool.  I still lay the ply on the insulation when cutting its just so easy.   I still have my old clamp and Forrest 7 1/4" blade from the original setup that I don't use.  

3. 
   RalphBarker | Jan 09, 2012 12:19pm | #3

   cutting sheet goods

   Another vote for using a circular saw with a guide, or, even better, a circular saw with an integrated guide rail, like the Festool. Wrestling sheet goods on a table saw is just too risky in my book, unless you have a skilled helper.

   Prior to getting a Festool TS-55, I used the conventional guide edge method, but it was sometimes difficult to keep the saw against the guide edge. The rail system solves that problem, and the Festool saw is dead accurate. Attach their "dust extraction system" (AKA shop vac), and you have almost dustless sheet goods cutting.

   I use two pairs of saw horses, but the insulation on the ground method works just as well. As long as you remember to prperly set the depth of cut, that is.  ;-)

4. 
   swenson | Jan 09, 2012 01:34pm | #4

   Remember the 1/8 kerf

   "from this I want to rip 12" off to end up with a 1'x4' section and a 3'x4' section."

   No matter how you end up cutting the 4x4 remember you are going to lose an eighth of an inch due to the saw cut and you will not get a perfect 1x4 and 3x4.

   I know you have a new saw that you are eager to use building things, and advice to use a circular saw seems unfair after spending all that money, but perhaps it would be better to get used to using the table saw on more mundane tasks before you attempt to start cutting large sheet goods, for safety sake.  Making an outfeed table is a good idea and it will help you with just this problem with sheet goods.  I always take advantage of the free or cheap cuts the big box store will make for you by planning ahead.  Then I use the table saw to true up and cut smaller pieces.  A 4x4 is not too big if you have a bit of experience, but just might be dangerous if you don't.  Remember, kickbacks can kill and usually finger loss is forever.

5. 
   swenson | Jan 14, 2012 12:48am | #5

   Let 'em fall

   One more note:  When ripping on the table saw and pushing the stock thru the blade with a push stick, if the off cut falls to the floor just let it go.  The worst that can happen is you ding up a corner of an expensive piece of wood.  Lunging for it or trying to catch it could be a disaster.  Think about the balance point of the offcut rip and place the roller or outfeed support correctly first and you wont have that problem.  Clear the end of the blade and you won't get kick back.  Don't even watch the off cut fall.  Keep your eve on the push thru.  Build the outfeed table and you are golden.  Good luck.  Be safe.  Have fun.