Replies

1. 
   mwenz | Aug 05, 2005 06:15am | #1

   The MK.II Power Sharpener is a good system and will do a good job on your carving tools--or anything other than planer blades for that matter.

   The Tormek is also good.  Being water cooled it is less likely to overheat the edges of your tools. The MK.II takes a light touch. But can get your tools very sharp.

   Main issues will be that the Tormek is a single stone system. The MK.II you will need to change the platters once to go to a higher grit.

   The Tormek has an optional leather honing wheel, which I would suggest you get if you go this way. The MK.II you will still need to strop your carving tools to get them that last little bit. The Tormek's leather wheel can round over the edges if you are not careful.

   It's all trade-offs.

   btw, there's also the Lap-Sharp system. It is looking to be a very well built, strong contender--for yet more money.

   MikeW

1. 
   user-622201 | Aug 05, 2005 07:09am | #2

   Thanks for the reply.  I'm not familiar with the Lap-Sharp System.  Can you point me in a direction to find out about it...manufacturer, dealer, website? 

1. 
   mwenz | Aug 05, 2005 08:14am | #4

   http://www.woodartistry.com for the Lap-Sharp.

   As the other poster says, though, it is easy to over-grind using powered sharpeners. Had you not mentioned having used them in the past and specifically requested info about the MK.II, I probably would have recommended using hand methods.

   For my carving tools, some of which I have had for more than a dozen years, I have used powered sharpening systems. They aren't totally evil <g>.

   But I also hand hone during use and only use a powered system to renew shapes.

   Take care. MikeW

   Edited 8/5/2005 1:15 am ET by MikeWenzloff

2. 
   jazzdogg | Aug 05, 2005 07:18am | #3

   Richard,

   Lee Grindinger is the designated master carver around these parts, so I offer the following with all due deference to Lee when he joins in.

   FWIW, I break down "sharpening" into separate processes: shaping, honing, and polishing/stropping.

   I reserve machines for tools that need their geometry (shape) corrected, as when a tool is damaged or it is being reshaped to change the way it performs. This is largely because machines can remove significantly more tool steel than hand sharpening - a compromise that I'm generally unwilling to make in the interest of saving time.

   For honing (refining the scratch pattern while maintaining the geometry) I use mostly diamonds and ceramics these days (as well as water stone & ceramic slips for carving tools).

   For polishing/stropping, I use charged leather strops - both flat & contoured - and slips (water stones, and 4,000 & 8,000 ceramics).

   I find that, for the most part, if the geometry of my carving tools is OK, I can keep them razor sharp by frequent, but short, honing & stropping sessions while carving. I do it so automatically now that I'm hardly aware of the time it takes. Besides, it give me a chance to stretch my back while I reflect on the carving that lies ahead.

   While taking carving classes, I was particularly interested in watching the condition of the carving tools used by my classmates who frequently used powered sharpening and stropping methods after the instructor admonished against their overuse. Sure enough, by the end of the second semester, their tools ware appreciably shorter than mine; at $35 and up for a single carving tool, that seems like a costly way to save time.

   Good luck,

    

   -Jazzdogg-

   "Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie

1. 
   user-622201 | Aug 05, 2005 06:33pm | #5

   Jazzdog, Thanks for the response, and I identify with the good info you presented.  What's an ideal system for stropping?  Smooth side of 10oz russet leather?  What compound best maintains the edge?  How do you get your leather contour shapes?  I've been a furniture maker for over 30 years, but though I've done carving and been schooled (many years ago when the black arkansas stone was the way to go), carving is not something that is in my usual routine.  So any info on stropping would be helpful as I approach this next job.  Thanks for the advice.